[Rusty Gold]

Hi, I wonder if anyone can give m a bit of help/ advice? Went out to start up the engine this morning (as I do every couple of weeks during the winter lay up and upon turning the key, two things happened, the fuel pump remained clicking (where it would normally sit off after a few clicks, and the fans fired up full pelt. on trying to start, the engine turns over fine, but will not start.

I hav fuel to the injector rail and after reading a post on the forum I have reset the ECU and TPS, and checked the resistance of the engine temperature sensor (3600 ohms).
Any ideas as to what the problem could be?

Thanks

Steve

 

[H96669]

I had the rather strange fuel pump staying on instead of just priming then stopping.
Strange because for as long as I have been following them online that was a first.But I figured it out quickly, the Motronic relay was sticking/defective.The Motronic relay NOT the fuel pump relay.

Investigation in the electrical box? The horn relay is the same and can be used in place of the Motronic (or Fuel pump) for testing purpose.

 

[sailor]

Hi, I wonder if anyone can give m a bit of help/ advice? Went out to start up the engine this morning (as I do every couple of weeks during the winter lay up and upon turning the key, two things happened, the fuel pump remained clicking (where it would normally sit off after a few clicks, and the fans fired up full pelt. on trying to start, the engine turns over fine, but will not start.

I hav fuel to the injector rail and after reading a post on the forum I have reset the ECU and TPS, and checked the resistance of the engine temperature sensor (3600 ohms).
Any ideas as to what the problem could be?

Thanks

Steve

As H96669 just wrote in previous post, it could be the Motronic-EFI relay sticking.
See attached diagram of relays located in TOP part of electrical junction box (under fuel tank).

Just swap Motronic relay #3 with Horn relay #4. make sure Ignition is OFF when you make the swap. MAKE SURE you reconnect fuel-pump under tank AND also BOTH fuel-hoses under tank before turning ignition ON.

After ignition ON, wait 10 seconds (assuming fuel-pump is not running full-time of course) , do NOT attempt to start engine. At this point, measure voltage at battery pole under seat. Of course this will be lower that voltage reading with ignition OFF - however it should not be less than 11.9 volts otherwise battery is old -OR- needs a good charge.

There is no point to troubleshoot a modern vehicle having Electronic Fuel Injection (car or motorcycle) if the battery is weak - all kind of weird symtoms can happen in such case.

 

[Beech]

When a relay sticks or has trouble operating, it generally is from low voltage. Even if you keep your battery on a smart maintenance charger you fo not know if the battery is any good. Also, sorry to be negative but starting your bike once and a while in the winter and not riding it for 15 minutes or so on road to bring the oil up to temperature and letting it boil off any condensation is not great. Much better to just keep your battery going and do not start the bike until you can go ride for a bit. So, after your remove your battery maintenance device, turn on the bike for a minute or two, do not start it, now check your battery voltage. Better be 10 volts or higher. More than 60% of electrical problems on these forums are from bad batteries.

 

[Rusty Gold]

That’s for these replies, I’ll have a look a post back