BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As a daily rider and commuter, my 2000KRS has been trouble free for 65kmiles. The first of November I had to travel out of town and she sat for two weeks under cover. When I returned and did my preride checks noticed a wet seam around the bell housing and wiped it up and went for a ride. After ride the under side of bike was soaked with engine oil. Wiped her down and rode around the block and she was covered again. I guess she didn't like sitting for that long. Pulled her apart this Sunday and the oil seal was shot. To my pleasant surprise the splines and all other seals were perfect. The clutch looks brand new and the rest of parts in very good shape. All parts on order. I'll try to post pics soon. The test will be to get her back to original condition for many more miles. Later...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clutch alignment tool?

Talked to the service tech and he says that a clutch alignment tool is not neccasary. I can see what he is talking about as to fit everything in place and hand start the 8 bolts, then tighten down in a star pattern one half turn at a time till proper torque is reached. Question to the people in the know, is this possible? and what to look out for while doing this? Any other items that have given problems to ya that I should be watching out for to reassemble? It's easy to take apart, LOOKS EASY to put together again. Thanks for any advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
On my K100 I used a 3/8 extension and a socket that fit snugly through the clutch to make the alignment. Get some long bolts to fit the bell housing and cut the heads off, use these studs to help keep the transmission aligned when reinstalling. Mark the clutch pressure plate/flywheel assembly before you take it apart to keep it in balance.
The older models had a large O-ring under the big nut at the back of the crankshaft, if the K12 uses that I would replace it while everything is apart.
It's not a bad idea to change the tranny imput shaft seal while everything is apart also.
Use Honda Moly 60 paste sparingly on the clutch splines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
I've done this and did not use a clutch alignment too. I just eye-balled it to get as centered as possible, then when I had the transmission nearly in place, I used a long flat blade screwdriver and tapped the clutch plate (on the hub where the transmisson shaft engages) to budge it slightly until I saw it aligned with the spline.

With your mileage, I would consider replacing the clutch slave cylinder too and also the transmission seals as someone previously mentioned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Clutch alignment tool?

Thanks guys, I knew there was something I was forgetting to consider, slave cylinder and tranny seal. I don't want to have to get back into this teardown for a long while. Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
To remove the clutch basket, I just used a piece of aluminum, drilled a couple holes and used the old clutch bolts. It presses against the housing and stops it from turning when loosening and tightening the center bolt. By the way, there are 6 clutch bolts and not 8 as the parts fiche lists.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Back Together and Running GREAT!

Well guys I got the K12RS back together this weekend and saved a bunch of $$$ on doing the main seal replacement myself. While in there I pulled the starter off and it had like new brushes so I put back together, seals on the transmission were not leaking so don't mess with if not leaking. Everything lubed and torqued. Stared right up, no spare parts on work surface and went around the block for test. All Good! Replaced skin and went for a ride @30miles, pulling over a couple times to check for leaks. Like I said, saved a bunch of $$$ on doing the job myself. Thanks again for all your tips on the process.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The setup and teardown took about 8 to9 hrs. to get the seal. Setup included screwing jbolts into garage ceiling to hang straps and making enough space in garage to work. If you can get your hands on a tech manual, that's good, details steps for teardown. Once apart, 4 or 5 hrs. to inspect and clean. Another 8 to 9 to put it all back together. I did have help from bro in law who has taken bikes apart for some years now. This was my first major bike repair, worked on cars forever it seams like. All in all, not a big PITA.
 

·
"DELIVERS"
Joined
·
870 Posts
main seal

Just had my GT in for 24K service....dealer noticed the main seal weeping and wants me to bring it in for replacement ( warranty ) ....gonna bring it in at 27,000 (next oil change) ....they said they will check everything while in there but my question is: Assuming it isn't contaminated already, should I have the clutch pack replaced now while they're in there? With 25,000 miles on it, I'm not sure how much more life it has. What do you guys think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
I had a 2002 K1200 RS with 35,000 miles, 2.5 years old. Rear main leaking. My Dealer BMW Las Vegas put in a new clutch Assy cause of oil contamination to the disk from seal leak.
No cost to me.
That oil soaked clutch was worn out, I ride it "like I stole it". It had been slipping for a while.

I traded that bike the next week for a new 2004 K1200 RS w/Remus Exh. $5K and my bike. What a deal.

If oil is on your clutch disc, have the dealer put a new one in under warranty.

Bazra
aka; The Flash
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
Another leaker... oh well

milkman said:
Just had my GT in for 24K service....dealer noticed the main seal weeping and wants me to bring it in for replacement ( warranty ) ....gonna bring it in at 27,000 (next oil change) ....they said they will check everything while in there but my question is: Assuming it isn't contaminated already, should I have the clutch pack replaced now while they're in there? With 25,000 miles on it, I'm not sure how much more life it has. What do you guys think?
Gee, sounds similar my my saga. I would guess you are going to end up with a clutch replacement. Seems almost certain according to my review from this site.

Maybe your clutch won't blow fluid from the slave but I wouldn't hold my breath.

Seems that BMW had a rash of parts that just weren't up to the task. Don't know if it was a bad batch or just clearing out inventory of parts that were on hand and not inspected to the same level as earlier year K1200's, before release of the new K1200 motor. My guess it is the later.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top