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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
Now that I have my new (to me) K1200RS -1999...I knew it was a bit crampy when I bought Porky..so now is the time to do some modification so I am comfy.
I had the seat refoamed with thicker foam and it is very good. adding about 1 inch or 1.5 inch of extra much need leg room. While out riding this weekend, I figure I could use a bit more leg room still.
After a bit of research on the 'net'. I found out the older (98-01) models has higher pegs, with an inch or kick-up and the newer (02-onward) has no such kick-up and thus more leg room
I visited the BMW dealer today to see about the 02 pegs and yes, indeed, they just bolt on the exisiting back-plate and should give me another inch of so leg room..GREAT!

The question I asks is, has anyone done this? And how does the lower peg position affect the shifter placement and rear brake placement. Does it feel wierd? or what?

Any help you guy/gal can shed can help me with Porky

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99 K1200RS silver/blue
 

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In 1999 the easy way to get lower pegs was to use pegs from an R1100S. They had to be filed/ground a little, and the springs had to be swapped, but it was pretty straightforward. You've got it easier now in that the GT pegs are a direct swap

For the brake, there's a stop-nut that can be adjusted to lower the pedal a bit. BE CAREFUL YOU STILL HAVE ADEQUATE FREE PLAY! A few people here have gotten carried away and some have ended up with the drive boot catching fire (!).

The shifter has some adjustment available to lower it. You lower the shifter by making the linkage longer.

FWIW, after going through all that, I generally keep my footpeg brackets in the up position. I have healthy knees and I find it more comfortable that way.
 

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Another thing...

I don't know if you've discovered it , but the seat has 2 positions. It's kind of tricky to lock it in the up position. Give it a shot.
 

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fasteddieb said:
For the brake, there's a stop-nut that can be adjusted to lower the pedal a bit. BE CAREFUL YOU STILL HAVE ADEQUATE FREE PLAY! A few people here have gotten carried away and some have ended up with the drive boot catching fire (!).

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When you adjust the stop on the brake pedal, you MUST adjust the pushrod that pushes into the master cylinder in order to retain freeplay. Otherwise you will have a problem with the rear brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lock seat in Upper position

Hi Dave,
Yes, I notice there is high/low position for the seat. I like to lock it in the high position, but I can never figure out whether I am at high or low position. I try to use a flashlight to look at where the catch is catching the high posiiton, but it is differcult to see.
If you have any special technique to use to lock into high position, please let me know
thanks

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I put on the later pegs and they work great. I also bought the later springs, but still needed a small hole drilled into one of the peg brackets to line up with the spring end.

The brake adjustment is not so bad, just needed a longer stop screw and a few threads cut off the link rod but the Shifter is a pain. I used to get leg cramp. Lowering the pegs and adjusting the shifter lever lowers the shifter lever but unfortunately pushes the shifter rubber nearer your ankle when it should still be just back from your toes for smooth shifts. Changing the whole shift lever for the later type which is quite different was too expensive so I split the first lever fixed with one screw, re-profiled the casting and Loctited the screw to allow it to be set in a more forward position.

Bit of a dramatic mod, but replacing this part back to stock is cheaper than buying the new shift linkages (which I thought had too many bends and connections anyway). Pity that the stock setups which appear adjustable aren't in practice, since any change in the stock linkage whilst moving the shifter up and down, also moves the toe point forward and back. Don't really know how other riders with very big/small feet get on.

Now I get no leg cramp and the bike fits me apart from the screen, but I've given up on that now.

On seat position, I've put a strip of foam rubber between the front of the seat and the plastics to reduce rubbing. You then have a line to check your seat position to.



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lower? I raised mine, and still am grinding them off! oops, sorry, forgot I was on the GT list, I was thinking ricky racer squidlike there for a minute! Just drill some holes in the fairing and put some forward pedals on it, much more comfy and looks real kewl too; all my hardley friends have 'em.
OTOH, I really did put the pedals on my gt higher and hardley ever touch them down now, that centerstand is getting a bit skinnier on the sides though..
 

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I made the same change on my '99. After adjusting the brake pedal I used a longer bolt to keep the brake light from being on all the time. I bought a shift lever extension (Bob's BMW or Pirate's Lair) and cut about 1/2" off the side stand lever so my foot wouldn't hit. You can still move the pegs to the higher position if you want more cornering clearance.
 

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In addition to the use of the R11S pegs, I didn't see anyone mention that you can get a footpeg lowering kit for your bike. It will include blocks that will lower the pegs as well as a block to extend the shifter down. Check out Pirate's site for these.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the tips

Hi all who suggested.
Great tips from a lot of you on how to get more leg room.
I think I am going to ride my K1200RS for a couple of months, before I conclude what I am going to do...here are the options.

1) Do nothing, and get use to it..maybe that may happen.

2) Raise the seat some more with more foam. But the down side is that it is more prone to unsteadiness when stop at a light, especially when on wet or greasy surface.

3) Put on later (02) pegs which are lower and mount a shift extender from the pirate.
-that may limit corner speed... I may want to put the backplate on the high position and use the later pegs , just need to figure out how much more leg room that gives me.

4) buy the lowering kit with the backer plate and shift extender.
I learn to ride SuperBike supposely the proper way. And the proper way to put the foot is to have the balls of your feet on the peg and feet tuck in. However, whoever design the peg and the metal extension behind the pegs means you can't really do that. I end up having the outer 1/4 for my feet hanging out beyond the peg... maybe a lowering kit with backer plate would reduce that problem.

So, I think I got most of my answers now...thanks guys/gals...

OK, one problem being resolved..and here is another one.
Why is the instrument bezel have chrome rings around the speedo/tach/termpeture gauge but not the fuel gauge? Is there a logic?

Plastics
99 K1200RS silver/blue
 

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Shifter throw mod

I read about the shifter mod on the defunct forum and reread it again today. I have gotten used to the oem shifting but thought what the heck, good pictures, I can do that at work in my free time. Start to finish about an hour to do and install on my bike in the parking lot. Just got back from the ride home, while I was happy with the shifter for the most I didn't realize what a difference it would make. Easier up and down shifts. Pulled the front wheel going to second trying a spirited upshift. I like it, if you can do the mod yourself go for it, if you have someone who can do it, likewise. Thanks to Jimm for the repost.
 

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Don,

I too was amazed at the difference. I agree with many others that this was the single best change I have made to my RS! The Verholen Short Shift rocks! If you can do it yourself and save money, more power to you!

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
nylon? Delrin?

Quote from some passage "new bushing for the pivot bolt out of some sort of self lubing nylon he called Delrin or some such crap"

Delrin is Dupont's Acetal Homopolymer plastics resins. It is NOT nylon. Acetal is also known as POM, or Poly-acetal...
I just know these sort of things..hence my handle..

Plastics
99 K1200RS
 
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