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Discussion Starter #1
I got some other things to take care off so I never got around fixing that clutch, but I hope to start shortly. Meanwhile, I continue to gather information. I've gotten the Clymer manual and I've read through a bunch of posts here and there. Dang... this is a very intimidating task... but I am going to do it no matter what :D

So... I made a parts list that I think need to be replaced, copying the list from this post:
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1182

Here is my list with updated prices:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0AqWv2dkNNPVbdEFJVjIxUWVpWFN3UERaVFlvSV9SNEE

and the question is, what parts do I need to replace for sure? I am thinking -- all the seals, friction plate and the slave cylinder (as suggested by some folks here). The rest of the list is optional and depends on the parts condition. Right? Like the pressure plate? Shouldn't it go forever? Or housing cover?

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Another question is about raising the frame. Can it be done without a crane or overhead beam? I don't have any of those things in my garage. Also, what kind of jack should I get to put under the engine? Any suggestions?

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And the last question, where do I get the clutch centering tool and centering tool holder? I can't find those things online so I don't even know how much they cost. I probably should call the dealer, but maybe someone knows a good source (maybe cheaper than at dealer's too)

TIA

Max
 

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I'll do the big one first.....raising the frame! I did my bike last winter without raising the frame, you can get the same action just by lowering the motor. I used jackstands at the foot pegs area and a small hydraulic floor jack under the engine. Would I do that again ? NO!!!!

Besides the safety aspect :teeth it causes too much crouching for my old(er) back and knees and the stands are always in the way. But later on I found out that I could have put a steel bar across and through the peg mounts and install the jackstands at the ends of that bar, away from the bike. But you cannot do that right at first because the right mount has to come off in order to remove the shock lower bolt. You can also do something similar if you leave the rear frame/tail piece on, 4 x 4 across and set it down on some sturdy sawhorses, but not easy to work around those. But remember safety first....!:)

Special tools like the clutch centering tool and clutch holder, if you mean the one to hold the parts centered.......I did not use any of that, there is ways around them all.Even the big socket with a window cut in it....I bought one, used it but never cut it ! :)

I don't know about your clutch parts, would really have to see it, depends a lot on how long and how much the clutch slipped, I got caught once not replacing the diaphragm spring, but the plate/housing cover are quite resillient, they may only need a good sanding and cleaning. :confused:

Buying parts before is a good thing sometimes, makes you feel like it is X-mas for the bike, but I'll bet you'll get a little jam or two and have to get more, so you may want to wait until you pull the clutch out and inspect everything until you finalize it all. :thumb:

Have to edit....Why the pushrod? My bike is 2003 and does have the updated one with the felt on it. You can also drill a weephole there if you are concerned about the potential fluid leaking out of the slave into the bellhousing.That's why I said inspect first, you may not need that, but even if you do, it would be no problem machining one that does not have the groove and install the cheap felt on it. I do have the specs if you need to do that, I carefully measured mine so maybe someday I could save someone $50.00...
 

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I paid a lot less for the parts 1 1/2 yrs ago form BMW/Triumph/ M/C Salt lake City.

they charged me
152. for the housing cover vs your 190
61 for Spring vs your 72
159 for clutch plate vs your 175
94 for pres. plate vs your 99
22 for rear seal vs your 28

but is was February
 

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I can understand you are looking for a methodical plan, but as others have said you want to factor say a 2 week off road period and start pulling the bike apart.

You have to make judgement calls on each part which might relate to bike year, mileage, the oem parts cost, any visible wear and most important how difficult it might be to go back and replace something later on.

From memory I replaced both those swingarm bearings and they were not a horrendous price. My main reason was I'd found the front swingarm boot disconnected, allowing water to get inside. Unfortunately one bearing journal was a PITA to get out, which I eventually destroyed anyway - but I knew it wasn't very expensive. At the time of teardown my bike had 36K (mostly done by others). My clutch had been smooth and the assembly had no heat blueing, but the disc was over 50% worn. I replaced the clutch slave, all the seals I could see and the disc. Whilst everything was out, I also opened up the starter and alternator to check the brushes (pigs to get at when assembled).



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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
voxmagna said:
I can understand you are looking for a methodical plan, but as others have said you want to factor say a 2 week off road period and start pulling the bike apart.
Nah, I already started the teardown and I hate to be pressured for time (have enough of that at work :D) , so I ride another bike while I am doing the repairs. And since I work on the K only a few hours over the weekends, I don't expect much of the progress anytime soon. I am about to take the transmission off.



thanks, voxmagna, I guess I replace those bearings as well. I'll leave it till I am ready to do the reassembly.
 
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