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Major Work on Final Drive?

  • Yes

    Votes: 28 10.0%
  • No

    Votes: 228 81.7%
  • '06

    Votes: 63 22.6%
  • '07

    Votes: 96 34.4%
  • '08

    Votes: 33 11.8%
  • Repaired

    Votes: 6 2.2%
  • Replaced

    Votes: 26 9.3%
  • Oil changed near 600 mi.

    Votes: 126 45.2%

  • Total voters
    279
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Final Drive Poll

Have you had major work done on the final drive?

You can indicate year, repaired or replaced, and whether the oil got changed at 600 mi.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I would love to know about those who had failures and had changed the rear drive oil near 600 miles. I thought about including this in the poll, but couldn't think of a way to keep it simple. Please reply to this post if that's what happened to you.
 

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This is a good idea.....might want to bump it every once in a while till it's made the rounds.
 

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Ask the time, I will tell how to build a final drive

howfly said:
I would love to know about those who had failures and had changed the rear drive oil near 600 miles. I thought about including this in the poll, but couldn't think of a way to keep it simple. Please reply to this post if that's what happened to you.
06 GT. F-D lube NOT changed at 600 miles, but this was when they were sealed for life.

6000 miles. I was on a trip and had the bike serviced. Asked to have the F-D lube changed. I was told it was not needed, and besides the BMW super special lube was not available in the USA, would have to be imported from Canada @ $90 per liter, or is it litre.
Reeks of black market, some slease ball opens the trunk of his 72 Caddy. "pisssst, hey buddy wan'a buy some oil"?

18000 miles. Dealer replaced the rear drive because of excessive play- warranty. No leaks, no drips, just play. The tech noted to me upon picking up the bike that they all had a little play. Sure nuff, checked another GT in the shop, shook a couple in the showroom, even shook some oilheads. Play, not much. Now where ever I go I have to test BMW final drives for play!

Is this simple enough?

Norris "Assman" Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
 

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I am kind of odd man out here (AGAIN?). My rear wheel flange/hub to axle splines failed or became out of tolerance (big wobble at rear wheel). The fix requires new FD and matching hub, so I got a new FD but my FD did not fail.
 

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No problems here, my FD oil was changed at 600 miles and I intend to do it again a 12000.
I saw a post on BMWLT, where a poster figured out how to do it without dropping the FD to drain the oil. The whole thing took him less than 30 minutes.
 

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Final drive oil change made easy

JamesM said:
No problems here, my FD oil was changed at 600 miles and I intend to do it again a 12000.
I saw a post on BMWLT, where a poster figured out how to do it without dropping the FD to drain the oil. The whole thing took him less than 30 minutes.
JamesM,
Here is about the best instruction and illustrations on how to change your final drive oil.
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=5555&highlight=rear+drive+oil+change

Also I have included a picture of an alternate (not mine) "redneck" way.

Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
 

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ncooper said:
JamesM,
Here is about the best instruction and illustrations on how to change your final drive oil.
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=5555&highlight=rear+drive+oil+change

Also I have included a picture of an alternate (not mine) "redneck" way.

Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
I've seen that one, but the one I was talking about, you don't have to drop the FD or remove the tire. He used a small vinyl/plastic tube (1/4" I think) and syringe to suck the oil out, refilled with fresh oil, rotated rear wheel to flush, drained again, refilled and wala..
 

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All this research is cutting into my ridding time

JamesM said:
I've seen that one, but the one I was talking about, you don't have to drop the FD or remove the tire. He used a small vinyl/plastic tube (1/4" I think) and syringe to suck the oil out, refilled with fresh oil, rotated rear wheel to flush, drained again, refilled and wala..
James,
Try starting at #21 of this thread http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=5555&highlight=rear+drive+oil+change
Only problem is you might not get all the gunk out.

Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
 

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veni vidi vici

grifscoots said:
Don't you have an embassy to storm?:teeth
Do you know how easy it is to storm the embassy of a pacifist?
Knock and ye shall enter!

Norris the Conqueror
 

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ncooper said:
James,
Try starting at #21 of this thread http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=5555&highlight=rear+drive+oil+change
Only problem is you might not get all the gunk out.

Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
Okay, you convinced me. I'll prolly be yellin at Grif for help on that one. :D . I have read of several people trying to do it the "correct way" and they couldn't get the FD totally loose from the spline. Looks esy enough, but in my case, looks are usually deceiving.

Grif, have you done it yet?
 

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I think he's doing it (the wild monkey dance) right now

JamesM said:
Okay, you convinced me. I'll prolly be yellin at Grif for help on that one. :D . I have read of several people trying to do it the "correct way" and they couldn't get the FD totally loose from the spline. Looks esy enough, but in my case, looks are usually deceiving.

Grif, have you done it yet?
I don't know about Grif but I have.
The secret is to keep the u-joint pushed all the way foward on the drive shaft; don't let it slide back toward the final drive.

See if that works for you.

Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
 

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ncooper said:
I don't know about Grif but I have.
The secret is to keep the u-joint pushed all the way foward on the drive shaft; don't let it slide back toward the final drive.

See if that works for you.

Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
That does make sense, if the U joint slides toward the rear, there probably isn't enough room for the spline to totally seperate.
 

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I was wondering how the poll has only 4 people with major work but 5 with diffs replaced?
 

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JamesM said:
That does make sense, if the U joint slides toward the rear, there probably isn't enough room for the spline to totally seperate.
James, the drain isn't bad, but buying a very small tub of moly will floor you. There's enough there to last you a lifetime, but $48 delivered was just downright highway robbery. I got the good stuff with a high concentration, but still....
 

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grifscoots said:
James, the drain isn't bad, but buying a very small tub of moly will floor you. There's enough there to last you a lifetime, but $48 delivered was just downright highway robbery. I got the good stuff with a high concentration, but still....
WOW! :yeow: At $48, you musta got 5 gallons of that stuff. I assume that the gold, er grease, is for the spline. Where did you get it and what weight oil did you use. I see some are using 75/90 and some are using 75/140. I have a couple of quarts of Amsoil extreme gear 75/140 that I was using in my cruiser if that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dadicool59 said:
I was wondering how the poll has only 4 people with major work but 5 with diffs replaced?
Someone prolly hit the 'Replaced' button but not the 'Yes' button. I've thought of about 5 better designs for this poll since it started. The limitation is that you can either allow all buttons or just one. If you allow more than one, than there is no method to force other buttons on or off.

Or maybe they didn't consider a replacement as major work?
 
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