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My advice, for what it's worth, is do not put on an aftermarket exhaust, or K&N Filters.... yet. The bike does not need any extra power and you would be better getting used to the bike as is, before changing anything.
My second piece of advice, use OEM filters, they are not expensve in the great scheme of things and I don't like K&N or any foam filters.
My third piece of advice, when you've ridden the bike a bit, and if you still want to, then change the exhaust. Have a search here to see your options. One is to replace it with a K1300 exhaust. They are shorter and look and sound nicer imho. Expensive option is Akrapovic, cheap option is Delkevic. Mid priced options are also available. My choice would be a a K1300 exhaust as I perfer the original sound, don't like loud pipes, and did I mention that the bike does not need any extra power :)

And you got a beautiful bike there. I'm jealous.
 

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Also... if i did the exhaust and added new KN filters OR just did the filters as they need replacing anyways... will the filters mess with computer settings?..... people have said that the FI system may act up with exhaust and/or KN filters.
I put an Akrapovic exhaust on my 2006 K1200S. I have been very happy with it.Bone
Akrapovic is a "Plug & Play: I have one and love the sound, they also come with a db killer so you can make it whisper quit it you want.

Just buy new stock air filters. (third the price of K&N and better surface filtering)

Also I have your bikes twin (y)
 

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Good look'in bike.
A few things to change/fix for trouble free riding in the future. As already mentioned, brake system fluid change and bleed. Clutch fluid is different, almost never needs changing. Update the engine timing chain adjuster to the BMW newer one, gets rid of the noise at start up. Have dealer check that you have the timing chain jumping guide installed. If not get it. Change the fuel strip to a later model regular float type sensor. Plenty of info on this site and a step-by-step conversion thread. This will fix the fuel strip problem permanently. New slip-on will reduce the weight and the bulkiness look of the original pipe. BMW computer will adjust to it over time. Others can verify. If you have or get surging at low speeds or some hesitation off corners install a booster plug, it works. Transmission is clunky especially from first to second, it's just the way they are. New models are a bit smoother. Have dealer check your clutch adapter, you want the latest one of those installed, it has 2 groves cut into the shaft. The aluminum plug will have to be removed and the shaft likely honed, again plenty of post on this site about that. Get Mann air filters for the bike. They make the same filter for a car and they cost way less than the K&Ns. You
can get them a Advance Auto. I have the part number if you need it. All kinds of carbon fiber bits out there. Prices vary a lot so shop around.
Enjoy!

28635
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here is the list I gave them:
New Tires
New bearings
Drain Tank...clean...
Brake Fluid Flush
New Pads
Clean sensors for brakes
Oil/Filter Change
Air Filter Change
Rear Drive Service
Fuel Strip.. Mod to K1300 - due to light on.. reading low fuel
Coolant Flush
New Plugs
Newer headlight bulbs... LED

Check over the ENTIRE bike. If it needs replacing.. .just do it.

Basically the bike is getting a FULL work over to ensure all is new.

* On the test drive... other than the CRAPPY tires.. it road great. Smooth and VERY responsive. Remember... I came from Buells... This is a Lincoln Town Car ride compared to the Buells :)

They are picking it up Thursday morning and should get it back mid next week.

- Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Also.. i have added the Cam chain Adjuster, booster plug to the work order.
Wont be a cheap service but should be good for a while.
 

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Wont be a cheap service but should be good for a while.
HAH you can say that again!

Awesome. This bike will treat you right. Be prepared to be blown away.


 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks... yeah. Im thinking $1k-$1500 for the full list for service. HOPEFULLY! Not more than that.
 

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Thanks... yeah. Im thinking $1k-$1500 for the full list for service. HOPEFULLY! Not more than that.
Umm...
Have them give you an estimate before signing off on the repair... what you described is... Well it's likely more than that. A lot more than that. But I can't say for certain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok.. guessing game. What $$ do you all think. Im curious now. Yes i will have a quite later today but in all honesty it all has to be done.
 

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I agree with everything you suggested EXCEPT the LED headlight replacement- the lens is not designed for it and would give no end of trouble with the CANBUS .

just get decent OE bulbs and get out and be ready to have you arms ripped off!
 

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Ok.. guessing game. What $$ do you all think. Im curious now. Yes i will have a quite later today but in all honesty it all has to be done.
At the Dealership?!

New Tires: $500
New Bearings: $300
Drain & Clean Tank: $50
New Pads: $200 (incl. cleaning brake sensors)
Oil/Filter Change: $100
Air Filter Change: $50
Rear Drive Service: $50
New Plugs + Coolant Flush would be done with a Valve Check, which is $500 so $600
Fuel Strip from a K1300S: $400
Camchain Adjuster: $200
Booster Plug: $300

So like $2750 by my (very rough!) estimate
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I may save then the $600. They said the valve adjustment is NOT needed. Soo if i am around $2k. Thats in my ballpark. Not too bad for ALL that is being done.

i just want to RIDE. I used to turn wrenches on Buells...but figured this is best left to trained techs to sort out. I also figured this would be best for longevity of the bike.
 

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I may save then the $600. They said the valve adjustment is NOT needed. Soo if i am around $2k. Thats in my ballpark. Not too bad for ALL that is being done.

i just want to RIDE. I used to turn wrenches on Buells...but figured this is best left to trained techs to sort out. I also figured this would be best for longevity of the bike.
Reason I included it is replacing the spark plugs and doing a coolant flush is 80% of the way to a valve adjust. You have to remove the tupperware, the radiator, the coils. BMW “subsidizes” this job, so it’s “only” $450 or so. New Spark Plugs would be like $100, and then a proper coolant flush maybe another $50 or $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I knew it would not be cheap.. but to get it 100% I believe it will be worth it.
Looks like we are gling with Michelin Pilot G5’s for the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
We talked on the phone and they were very very professional. I was pleasantly surprised. I told them to check it all and call if anything needs replacing. Should grt it back mid next week.
 

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I just joined.. I am looking at a 2008 BMW K1200S. It has 8200 miles with BMW Bags and is in absolute mint mechanical and physical condition. Maintained by a BMW service center and all is up to date.

I have ridden sport bikes for the last 25 years or so... but this would be my FIRST BMW. I have had Buells... Suzuki mainly...

Is there anything that I need a heads up on? Anything to look out for?? All information would be greatly appreciated.

Matt
Hey Matt! I picked up last year a 07 k12 r sport. Like some have said - these are in a class all their own. This is my first Beamer. Mine was dealer maintained, 82,000 miles and I didn’t even second guess it. As long as you have the records then you should be good. If you get the vin you can call your local dealer and they can run it and tell you all the work that has been done on it.
Couple things - requires a race type of oil - I use mobile one 10w 40. I change the final drive at every oil change.
You will find this site is amazing for help as the k1200s between 07 and 08 Haines manuals do not exist. You can get a dvd from 2008 but it’s well over a hundred and myself I have a Mac so dvd won’t work.
Shoot me a message if you need any particulars. Once you go bmw, you never go back. A quick spin around the block - it will all make sense.
Cheers
 

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Same for me, Akrapovic on my 2006. I found it used for a great deal! Also recommend a Sargent Seat which will make a world of difference. The oem seat really sucks in my opinion with zero saddle and so always sliding into the tank! Plus you sit lower. Also found the seat used for ⅓ of the price on forums like this! The quality of both items is excellent. Riding for 14 years with both and they still look and function like the day I bought them!l
 
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