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I had the opportunity to buy a very nice 40k mike K1200GT last weekend for $2000. It just had a full service at the local BMW dealer that cost almost that much (I have the receipt). I do have a slight rattle on startup and the clutch drags a little on startup as well. Everything else seems fine.

A completely different ride than my other BMW's (all R-Bikes) - it's like a jet airplane.

Here's what I've ordered and my plans for the bike. Input welcome.

1. Peg lowering kit (I'm 6'5")
2. Laminar Lip extension
3. Manual cam chain tensioner
4. BMW cam chain "keeper"
5. Barnett clutch pack
6. Bolts for the cover

I think the stock suspension damping is on the way out - are you guys rebuilding the ESA units or buying new "normal" shocks?
Given what I paid, I have a little room to buy some decent stuff...
 

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Congrats....yes getting on an inline from a boxer is like getting off a washing machine onto firm ground.

My ESA went out long ago (2006 GT) so I changed to Wilburs front and rear. The weight of the ESA unit removal is almost worth it by itself.
 

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If the maintenance done didn't include the lubing of the drive splines I'd take some time and do that.
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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You are going to have fun with this bike. You will read about the clutch on the K12 series and learn plenty. There is a good search function "advanced search: in the three dots right side of menu bar. Your rattle at start up is the cam chain. A couple of things here. There is an oring kit to over haul it Part number 11 31 7 717 289. I tend to use MAX bmw on line parts. The pictures will help too/
There is one more thing to keep this short, a piece of plastic has been retro fitted to most of these bikes under warranty/recall. It probably has been done but if not you need to take action. The part number is; 11 31 8 526 932. You can do this but it requires a new gasket and a new set of case screws that are torqued to 3 Nm (just firm snug) and then a 90 degree rotation. I also suggest you purchase the factory DVD service manual for details while working on your bike. Below are pictures, one with the chain jump guard installed... the dark crescent to the right. The other picture just showing the chain and sprocket has no jump guard. Sorry for the sticker shock on the service. Much of that was for valve check/adjustment about 5 hours and the brake bleed takes an hour then all the other stuff.
You can look in the right side case via the 2.5" plug in the center of the case over the end of the crankshaft. (plug 35 Nm)To get there you will need to start your collection of tools. You will need a nice driver set of Torx sizes to help too. A set of 3/8" torx bits will be needed also. The list is long and fun to accumulate.

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You are going to have fun with this bike. You will read about the clutch on the K12 series and learn plenty. There is a good search function "advanced search: in the three dots right side of menu bar. Your rattle at start up is the cam chain. A couple of things here. There is an oring kit to over haul it Part number 11 31 7 717 289. I tend to use MAX bmw on line parts. The pictures will help too/
There is one more thing to keep this short, a piece of plastic has been retro fitted to most of these bikes under warranty/recall. It probably has been done but if not you need to take action. The part number is; 11 31 8 526 932. You can do this but it requires a new gasket and a new set of case screws that are torqued to 3 Nm (just snug) and then a 90 degree rotation. I also suggest you purchase the factory DVD service manual for details while working on your bike. Below are pictures, one with the chain jump guard installed... the dark crescent to the right. The other picture just showing the chain and sprocket has no jump guard. Sorry for the sticker shock on the service. Much of that was for valve check/adjustment about 5 hours and the brake bleed takes an hour then all the other stuff.
You can look in the right side case via the 2.5" plug in the center of the case over the end of the crankshaft. To get there you will need to start your collection of tools. You will need a nice driver set of Torx sizes to help too. A set of 3/8" torx bits will be needed also. The list is long and fun to accumulate.
Thanks for that reply - and confirming my plans. I'm actually going with the ARE manual tensioner instead of the BMW one, and I have the jump guard on order to do when I do the clutch. And yes, that service bill was huge, but the previous owner paid it, had sticker shock, and sold me the bike the same day he picked it up from the shop.
 
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