[aPhantomRider]

I followed the most complete directions every and bled contaminated fluid with Magura blood through the built in Oberon bleed valve. Pumped 6 times, held down lever and bled till no more air bubbles. Lever feels firm when squeezed and rebounds normally. The clutch won't dis-engage and slams into 1st.
I used the scissor jack stand to keep the bike centered and avoid trapped air from using the sidestand. I also primed the new slave with fluid before installing.
The confidence I have in my athleticism and riding is directly opposite of my lack of any mechanical ability.
The clutch was working OK (not great) before. Bleeding went from a small amount of hydralic fluid visible to pure translucent red and no air. I really don't want to put the stock piston with the tiny blled valve back .

 

[Beech]

Did you keep track of the little hemispherical ball that pushes on the thrust rod in the transmission shaft? (and lives in the slave cylinder?

 

[Bradmiester]

Phantom Rider...... I'm already confused.

Your Bike came equipped with Magura Brakes? Or, you just decided to use Magura as opposed to the Vitamol V10 oil from BMW?

Mixing and matching Clutch Oil can sometimes put you on the highway to hell....... Typically Magura is a KTM Used product, but even KTM switches up between themselves and other Brake systems like Brembo. You may have already contaminated the system and expanded or damaged the o rings in the master cylinder.

I know that sucks and having BMW's for many decades, they typically want you to use only they're oils with special viscosity and added detergents for they're brake and clutch systems.

Ill assume you found yourself a niffty syringe as gravity feeding K bikes is hit or miss.....especially with replacing the Slave clutch or Master Cylinder.

The above suggestion from fellow rider BEECH is probably more the Culprit. Pull the slave back off and check position of the Ball in the Slave and re-position.

Happy Hunting

 

[Capt howdy]

Red Magura blood is sold by Beemer boneyard and Motorworks UK for use in the transverse K series clutches

 

[aPhantomRider]

Phantom Rider...... I'm already confused.

Your Bike came equipped with Magura Brakes? Or, you just decided to use Magura as opposed to the Vitamol V10 oil from BMW?

Mixing and matching Clutch Oil can sometimes put you on the highway to hell....... Typically Magura is a KTM Used product, but even KTM switches up between themselves and other Brake systems like Brembo. You may have already contaminated the system and expanded or damaged the o rings in the master cylinder.

I know that sucks and having BMW's for many decades, they typically want you to use only they're oils with special viscosity and added detergents for they're brake and clutch systems.

Ill assume you found yourself a niffty syringe as gravity feeding K bikes is hit or miss.....especially with replacing the Slave clutch or Master Cylinder.

The above suggestion from fellow rider BEECH is probably more the Culprit. Pull the slave back off and check position of the Ball in the Slave and re-position.

Happy Hunting

Why I chose Magura over BMW:

If BMW wanted mne to use their clutch fluid they should have stated more than "Do not reposition the handlebars" and "the clutch system is filled with a special hydraulic fluid".
in the Owners manual. I changed to Helibars the day after I got the bike home!

In an earlier thread I had to drain the vacuum pump way after using hydraulic clutch fluid to top off after changing the lever. I was lucky enough to get red Shimano Moneral Oil from a bicycle shop before being forced to move. Only through this forum not BMW did I learn it uses mineral oil not "Hydralic clutch fluid"
The post: K1200S clutch fluid bleed; what am I missing? stated:
" On Magura Blood, they used to be the official supplier of BMW, and apparently are no longer after a lawsuit, but my particular, originally spec’d clutch fluid was the red. "
Magura made the entire brake system for some earlier models.

 

[aPhantomRider]

Did you keep track of the little hemispherical ball that pushes on the thrust rod in the transmission shaft? (and lives in the slave cylinder?

I have extreme ADHD so I can never be sure of anything I did. I know I put grease on the ball and cylinder. I don't have enough oil for a full bleed but will check how I put the ball and cylinder in.
That was the only vague part of Oberons outstanding directions.

 

[Beech]

Flat side out to touch the thrust rod.

 

[aPhantomRider]

I'm not a total rubberhead, I installed the ball bearing and cylinder in the correct order.

The last bleed required me to finish bleeding with the bike tilted almost tipped over on the right side. I'll try that next.

Meantime I'll do the rear riser plates while trhe bike's in the air.

 

[Bradmiester]

Why I chose Magura over BMW:

If BMW wanted mne to use their clutch fluid they should have stated more than "Do not reposition the handlebars" and "the clutch system is filled with a special hydraulic fluid".
in the Owners manual. I changed to Helibars the day after I got the bike home!

In an earlier thread I had to drain the vacuum pump way after using hydraulic clutch fluid to top off after changing the lever. I was lucky enough to get red Shimano Moneral Oil from a bicycle shop before being forced to move. Only through this forum not BMW did I learn it uses mineral oil not "Hydralic clutch fluid"
The post: K1200S clutch fluid bleed; what am I missing? stated:
" On Magura Blood, they used to be the official supplier of BMW, and apparently are no longer after a lawsuit, but my particular, originally spec’d clutch fluid was the red. "
Magura made the entire brake system for some earlier models.

I hear you hommie. I had to special order the damn Clutch fluid but with the BMW resources not available here..... Calling up and asking the dealer what the Viscosity rating at 40degrees C is of the V10 or the detergents used compared to any other mineral oil would produce a " Deer in the Headlights" reaction. We also had a few run in's with Masters leaking shortly after using illegally reproduced labels of alleged Brake and Clutch fluids of reputable manufacturers,

True about the fluid switch, and on occasion, they (BMW) become so spiteful about previous contract discord. The consumer gets to suffer.

I'm on Helibars myself, and on my bike it was a bit of a challenge to properly get everything back into place. The Slave Clutch Drama was endured several times with shipping the Bike, here to Thailand, (Damaged via Shipping) having a woman crash into me and grinding the Oberon and R\H fairing and then one more time when the dealer switched back to the OEM Slave (Insurance) and I had to order another Oberon.....

Needless to Say, 3x of Bleeding the Damn clutch slaves..... we finally found an industrial syringe (non medical) supplier and senseless and endless bleeding with pumping the clutch lever was reduced to less than 5 minutes.

Best of Luck on all your Clutch Bleeding Endeavors....

Cheers

 

[Duncan Hare]

These BMW hydraulic clutch mechanisms are meant to be back-bled, i.e. pushing the fluid up from the Slave to the Master using a syringe. I just bleed mine downwards but haven't ever emptied the system - just flushed it through a few times over the years. If I drained it as you have, I'd try the bottom to top approach (perhaps with a second syringe or a mityvac type thing to suck oil out of the reservoir when it fills up).
Be interested to see how the Oberon works...when it does. They're very well made (in the UK) but I'm a little dubious of the logic of having a larger piston (36mm vs the standard 34 on the 1300 and 32 on the 1200 bikes): these clutches generally drag so you'd think maximising the travel of the pressure plate would be needed. The larger slave piston will reduce travel. Yes, it makes the action lighter but personally I don't have any problem with that.

 

[foobar]

I literally just did this same slave cylinder upgrade yesterday on my K1200R and I used the exact same Magura Blood that you are using.

I did nothing special-- remove the 4 screws holding the slave to the clutch case, undid the clutch fluid line and quickly attached it to the Oberon unit. The ball baring goes in first, then the post. After it was all tightened up, I filled the resevoir to the top and pumped the lever about 100x adding more fluid as needed.

Specifically, The bike was on the center stand the entire time. I would compress the clutch lever and crack the bleed screw. While the lever is still compressed, close the bleed screw and repeat. Occasionally, I would just pump the clutch lever rapidly about 10x. This seemed to help loosen the air pockets. After a while, bubbles would come up through the resevior and pressure would be witnessed when cracking the bleed valve. I am not going to lie-- it took a while. I would say about 10 minutes of pumping the lever and cracking the bleed screw. Keep going. You'll get there.

FWIW, I did a minimal test ride. Once installed, I would say it reduces lever pressure 10-25% and increases the pickup distance when engaging the clutch to where it is comparable to other motorcycle brands on the market. That is, I don't dred stop and go situations anymore. It is much easier to slip the clutch with the additional take up travel that is now available. I have a 20mi ride later today to get the full feel.

Is it worth $160? That's a personal call. I had to replace mine for-- ahem-- cosmetic reasons and carelessness. Knowing what I know now, I would probably do it again, but for functional reasons this time.

 

[aPhantomRider]

I literally just did this same slave cylinder upgrade yesterday on my K1200R and I used the exact same Magura Blood that you are using.

I did nothing special-- remove the 4 screws holding the slave to the clutch case, undid the clutch fluid line and quickly attached it to the Oberon unit. The ball baring goes in first, then the post. After it was all tightened up, I filled the resevoir to the top and pumped the lever about 100x adding more fluid as needed.

Specifically, The bike was on the center stand the entire time. I would compress the clutch lever and crack the bleed screw. While the lever is still compressed, close the bleed screw and repeat. Occasionally, I would just pump the clutch lever rapidly about 10x. This seemed to help loosen the air pockets. After a while, bubbles would come up through the resevior and pressure would be witnessed when cracking the bleed valve. I am not going to lie-- it took a while. I would say about 10 minutes of pumping the lever and cracking the bleed screw. Keep going. You'll get there.

FWIW, I did a minimal test ride. Once installed, I would say it reduces lever pressure 10-25% and increases the pickup distance when engaging the clutch to where it is comparable to other motorcycle brands on the market. That is, I don't dred stop and go situations anymore. It is much easier to slip the clutch with the additional take up travel that is now available. I have a 20mi ride later today to get the full feel.

Is it worth $160? That's a personal call. I had to replace mine for-- ahem-- cosmetic reasons and carelessness. Knowing what I know now, I would probably do it again, but for functional reasons this time.
View attachment 30822

I greatly appreciate all the input I've been given to someone that fabricates hardware but is not a mechanic. I'm so discouraged I am fixing an old KIA someone gave me to have transportation.

I contaminated the clutch fluid and trapped air with the bike on the sidestand. The Single Rear Stand was sent back by the landlord and I was out of time.

The Servo problem seems straight forward once I get a visual diagram. So far I don't know if it's me, the DVD or Windows 10 that prevents me from opening the .bat file from accesing data.

Every other bike I owned made it to the river on Memorial day.