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Hey, I am having problems getting my K1200rs started. I have checked all fluids..it will turn over but won’t start. Anyone else run into these issues or suggest what the problem could be?
 

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Hey, I am having problems getting my K1200rs started. I have checked all fluids..it will turn over but won’t start. Anyone else run into these issues or suggest what the problem could be?
Without being on-site, it would be helpful to know about:
- year of your K1200RS ?
- any recent maintenance ?
- was the fuel tank disconnected OR removed recently ?
- ANY previous issues related to this problem (did you install a new battery recently...).

When I have an unknown history K1200RS / K1200LT with a similar problem , MY checklist is always the same. Do not laugh at item 1 and 2 as you would be surprised how often I have seen these on forums - start with the VERY BASIC and go upward to more complex causes.
It helps to be aware of weak points of these K1200 "brick-engine":

1) Kill switch in center position, gear in Neutral ?? (no need for clutch being pulled in such condition)
2) Are you sure there is enough fuel in tank ?? (do NOT trust what gauges says although these Float + Gauges are quite reliable)

3) Check fuel priming sequence (do not attempt to start right away): too much moise from ABS modulator on ignition ON sequence, so you should move Kill-Switch from left to center ONCE (10 sec after ignition ON) to listen for the 2 seconds fuel pump priming by itself (can you hear this ?)

4) after ignition ON sequence (with kill switch in center AND gear in neutral): can you see the RED engine temp warning as ON (it should , otherwise the ECU is off the line). See attached picture.

5) If all the above is OK (pump priming and Engine temp ON), then we need to check for ignition function AND fuel pressure at injectors: one loose or defective spark plug is not enough to stop engine from doing some kind of sign of life.

IN YOUR CASE , IF there is just nothing happening except starter cranking noise (at a good rate), then history of these K1200 shows the next most probable is a cracked (or disconnected) fuel hose inside tank. There are 2 small fuel hoses between fuel-pump and fuel-filter. Symptoms are good cranking but nothing happening...

Failure of Coil OR ignition components (Hall effect sensors) are extremely uncommon on K1200RS-LT so this is not where I go first. Fuel-pump OR fuel-hose failure inside tank are a lot more common with age.
 

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Not certain how pertinent this might be to your "new" K12RS, but on my '85 K100RS the electrical plug containing the fuel pump and fuel level sensor wires was imaginatively designed by Hans und Fritz in the vertical position. As had happened to many others, due to time and vibration the female plug would fall out or just get loose. It wasn't visibly obvious. However in this condition the fuel pump wouldn't prime when the key was on and START button pushed. After one got to know the starting sequence, the absence of pump running sound was noticeable.

In my case, slightly bending the male side wires so that the female plug stayed connected, solved the problem.
 

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Not certain how pertinent this might be to your "new" K12RS, but on my '85 K100RS the electrical plug containing the fuel pump and fuel level sensor wires was imaginatively designed by Hans und Fritz in the vertical position. As had happened to many others, due to time and vibration the female plug would fall out or just get loose. It wasn't visibly obvious. However in this condition the fuel pump wouldn't prime when the key was on and START button pushed. After one got to know the starting sequence, the absence of pump running sound was noticeable.

In my case, slightly bending the male side wires so that the female plug stayed connected, solved the problem.
Good point... HOWEVER this is not an issue on K1200RS-LT design.
The 2 wires connector for fuel-pump (under pump flange / tank on right side) is separate and will normally not cause any issues. There is a another separate the 2 wires connectors for float (on top right side of tank) that would not cause problem to start (other than a bad fuel level reading).

The reason why I always insist on checking for fuel-pump priming noise (separate from ABS internal self-check noise) is NOT because of common connector issues - history shows few users having problem with this pump connector. However, there is always potential of burned ECU fuse (no pump priming will happen) or starter interlock issues (related to Neutral , side-stand, kill switch...).
 

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Hi bmwgirl28. Welcome. Let us know the year and model. Similar to Sailor's comments.

-1- Check the Kill switch to be in the center position ON
-2- You can't start the bike on the side stand in gear, must be on center stand or you straddling the bike holding it up. Safety feature.
-3- Put the bike in neutral for ease of mind. It can be started on 1st with the clutch in but good to avoid trouble.
-4- Keep your hands off the front brake and foot off the rear brake. It mess with the ABS and brake power assist sensors.
-5- Turn on ignition and wait 5 seconds for the lights to flicker, gas tank make noise, computer to come online. The ABS warning light flickers quickly and then slower after the computer completes its review.
-6- Push the starter and it should fire up. If nothing for 3 seconds, you have other issues as suggested by Sailor.

If you are new to the bike, important to listen and be watchful on the first 5 seconds. Let us know what you see and hear to cross off possible problems. Such as, "I see the lights Sailor indicates" or " I hear the tank purring then stoping". The tank is pressurizing.

If maintenance was recently done, chances are something got loose.

Without more information, I think #2 is the problem.

Regards
John
 

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Check the fuel pump connector under the tank.Forward wire going to the pump is/was ziptied to the vent pipe from the factory.

Missing ziptie and the wires may flop around and break.I could see copper once the insulation cracked from flopping right by the connector.That was just a matter of time until the wire(s) broke leaving me stranded.

Some liquid tape and extra reinforcement + the ziptie.And being careful when disconnecting the pump?Small wires,easy to break.
 

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Check the fuel pump connector under the tank.Forward wire going to the pump is/was ziptied to the vent pipe from the factory.

Missing ziptie and the wires may flop around and break.I could see copper once the insulation cracked from flopping right by the connector.That was just a matter of time until the wire(s) broke leaving me stranded.

Some liquid tape and extra reinforcement + the ziptie.And being careful when disconnecting the pump?Small wires,easy to break.
Good point... I always take care to hold connector firmly when pulling on this (both sides of connector using both hands). However, you are correct that the OP might have bought a K1200RS/GT that has not been treated as well.

To better understand what H96669 is referring to - see attached picture: on top part of picture, just left of yellow o-ring, you can see the small zip-tie holding the wires rigid to 1 of the 2 vent pipes. Of course, when fuel tank is on bike, seeing this from under is not so easy...
 

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Thanks for the pic Jean.Wire was starting to break right at the fused insulation.So I had to carefully cut back the insulation by 1/2" to separate the wires and repair.
 

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Check voltage at battery when cranking, if it dips below 10V while cranking the computer will not work. To correct charge or replace battery.
 

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Can you hear the fuel pump inside the tank whirring when the key is first turned on? If they have been left standing for a long time you can get issues with a siezed pump or hoses as Sailor has mentioned.
 
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