What is the average life of an Oxy sensor before one would expect problems?
Depends on driving style, would guess ballpark of about 75K mi. on average (mixed city\hwy), maybe higher if mostly touring miles at higher speeds using normal quality gas.aa3jy said:What is the average life of an Oxy sensor before one would expect problems?
On a car, you can expect at least 100,000 miles before it degrades to a point where the engine management system cannot "read" it. Of course, they tell you to replace it much sooner than that, but that is just a blanket statement.aa3jy said:What is the average life of an Oxy sensor before one would expect problems?
Actually, the original Zirconium Oxide type sensor invented by Bosch which was first used before 1980, and is still in use on many car models, was placed before the cat in nearly every car with one, for years and years. My old BMW 320i (with 3-way cat) had such a sensor placed before the cat. Both my 1988 and 1990 Jettas have the same. It wasn't until relatively recently that sensors began to be placed after the cat. Certainly, there is nothing special about a sensor placed between the engine and the cat.voxmagna said:The only thing that might cause early failure, is if the cat was removed, which is why this particular sensor is fitted post CAT. There are special sensors made for pre-cat fitting but not for our simple ECU's. 75K miles is the claimed life for current replacements, but if you're doing regular short commutes and cold starts, that comes down as the cat is not effective until hot.
RFWILSON said:Actually, the original Zirconium Oxide type sensor invented by Bosch which was first used before 1980, and is still in use on many car models, was placed before the cat in nearly every car with one, for years and years. My old BMW 320i (with 3-way cat) had such a sensor placed before the cat. Both my 1988 and 1990 Jettas have the same. It wasn't until relatively recently that sensors began to be placed after the cat. Certainly, there is nothing special about a sensor placed between the engine and the cat.
Glad it was of interest. Also, the verification that the O2 sensor in the K1200S is placed before the cat(s) makes sense. In every car I am aware of (which is not to say I have seen every car!) that has a sensor after the cat, there is also a "primary" sensor ahead of the cat. The sensor after the cat is sort of an "auxiliary" sensor that is just used to fine tune the mixture.MikeK said:Roger that!
and the write up on testing is valuable info, thanks.
BTW, the O2 sensor on a K1200RS is located just ahead of the (2)cat. cans in the chamber under gearbox.
I did the same years ago for the O2 sensor in my old 320i. One must remember that car and bike manufacturers are not in the catalytic converter and engine management business. they buy from companies like Eberspächer, Leistritz, and Ernst (for cats), and Bosch (engine management and sensors), so buy it direct and save a ton of money. Bosch's part number will be stamped right on the O2 sensor.Stephejl said:If you can find the bosch part number you can probably find it cheaper. There are a few online retailers that specialize in oxygen sensors. I took the o2 sensors out of my wife's BMW 740 and searched on the actual bosch part number and got them for less than half the dealer price. --Jerry
I don't have any experience with that source for an o2 sensor, but Chicago BMW has the OEM part for $148.
I went to http://www.realoem.com and took a shot at looking up part numbers. You can get a more definitive shot at the part number if you provide RealOEM with the last 7 digits of your VIN to pin down the exact part number you need.
11781341022 - listed as the OEM part on the 1998-2001 K1200RS (doesn't come up on BMW of Chicago's website)
11787671756 - listed as the OEM part on the 2002-2004 K1200RS/GT (shows up for $146)
It appears that the new part superceded the old part.
Good move. The only difference between what you got and the OEM part is indeed just the connector. Bosch makes relatively few different types of basic O2 sensors. After all, why would they? They also make the Motronic engine management systems that the O2 sensor plugs into. So it's not like Bosch would have to make a special sensor because each vehicle has some special requirements... Bosch makes the parts on both ends of the wire!voxmagna said:Whether the Bosch Universal is any different from the oem is for somebody to prove, but I'm happy.
But it's not just firmware that screws you. Remember back when turn signal relays were purely electromechanical? They had a bimetal strip and a little heater coil inside.voxmagna said:Right on Bob! If I had a scrap ECU I'd be trying to read the firmware code and disassemble it. I suppose we must allow some costs for them to develop the firmware, but when that Marque gets put on the box, wow do we pay for it.
Absolutely! We have a pollution inspection facility here that does a dyno test of the car while testing for emissions. When they are finished that, they read the vehicle's OBD11 module to look for previous trouble codes.Did you know that cage ECU's often contain tables with engine/chassis and registration details? When you go buy a used cage, having an OBD11 reader and knowing how to use it could be very useful.
Exactly, I have even fixed a fuel injection system's controller some years ago. The problem was pretty obvious, namely that the power transistor driving the injectors was blown. I just replaced with a similar NPN power transistor (50 cents) and saved myself $800.voxmagna said:I can see that all happening here soon as well. If it's an electronic turn signal unit, I just open up the can and fix it.
What's funny about this, is that the design "deficiency" where the old bimetal signal relay's flash rate was dependent on the load (as you mention), became a "feature".Comparing the old turn signal units with a solid state part requires a more complex design. The old heated wire unit told you when a bulb failed - less heat on the wire so it stuck on or flashed slow, also when you hit the turn switch the indicator lit 'on' first.