[halrkent]

I ran into a problem, when I started pouring the oil into the hole labled oil that the dip sitck fits into it filled up and doesn't drain into the motor. Where do I pour the oil, what am I doing wrong?
Hal

 

[smiller]

The K-bikes have what's called a dry sump oiling system where the bulk of the oil is stored in a tank and then pumped into the engine (and then returned to the tank to complete the cycle.) Oil only moves from the tank through the engine when the engine is running and will not drain into the sump by itself. When you change the oil you should (after properly draining the old oil) fill the oil tank to the proper level, then start the engine and let it idle for 15 seconds or so, the shut it down and refill to the proper level.

 

[halrkent]

response

Thanks for the info. Will the tank hold 3&1/2 quarts of oil before it fills up?

 

[2008-K1200GT]

Put in 3 quarts, then start the bike for a minute or so to allow the oil to move out of the tank, then add the last .7qt start using the dip stick after 1/2 a quart so you don't overfill.

 

[Semper_Fi]

Any issues runnig the engine "dry" as you wait for the oil to be pumped into the engine?

 

[2008-K1200GT]

Any issues runnig the engine "dry" as you wait for the oil to be pumped into the engine?

Not much of a choice, and to make things worse the oil filter is sideways, and you can't fill it with oil.

 

[DavidS]

I ran into a problem, when I started pouring the oil into the hole labled oil that the dip sitck fits into it filled up and doesn't drain into the motor. Where do I pour the oil, what am I doing wrong?
Hal

Don't take this the wrong way, but did you drain the old oil out of the tank?

 

[Fergie]

Don't take this the wrong way, but did you drain the old oil out of the tank?

+1, I was wondering the same thing.

 

[halrkent]

Response

No I didn't. I tried to use a pump to get the oil out of the tank but failed. Once I understood the tank wouldn’t drain into the lower case I took the clear plastic line and pulled it down by the rear tire and emptied the tank. I let the oil drain for an hour hoping all the dirty oil would drip out.
Am I correct in assuming that you screw the dip stick all the way back in before checking the oil?
Hal

 

[Meese]

I took the clear plastic line and pulled it down by the rear tire and emptied the tank. I let the oil drain for an hour hoping all the dirty oil would drip out.

Yep, that's how most of us do it. It will empty the tank that way just fine, although a bit slowly.

Am I correct in assuming that you screw the dip stick all the way back in before checking the oil?

I believe the dip stick just sits in place without being screwed in to check the oil. Check your owner's manual to be sure.

 

[DavidS]

No I didn't. I tried to use a pump to get the oil out of the tank but failed. Once I understood the tank wouldn’t drain into the lower case I took the clear plastic line and pulled it down by the rear tire and emptied the tank. I let the oil drain for an hour hoping all the dirty oil would drip out.
Am I correct in assuming that you screw the dip stick all the way back in before checking the oil?
Hal

Dipstick just rest in the hole, not screwed down until you are done.

 

[halrkent]

Thanks!

I appreciate the information, thanks. Hal

 

[allikanbe1]

Take a look at this link. It has pictures that are easy to follow.

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthrea...rds=oil+change&topic=0&Search=true#Post283579

 

[Smilodon]

Well, I'm glad I looked at those instructions. I never had a dry-sump machine before, and I thought draining the tank and changing the filter was sufficient. I didn't know you had to drain the motor itself as well.

How much of the oil is in the engine when cold as opposed to the tank?

Darn. Don't think I have any crush washers. Bought a couple of filters, but didn't know I'd need the washers... Oh well...

 

[Meese]

I never had a dry-sump machine before, and I thought draining the tank and changing the filter was sufficient. I didn't know you had to drain the motor itself as well.

In many ways, this bike isn't like most other bikes. So if you're not completely sure about the various maintenance procedures, do your homework beforehand. Even if that simply consists of asking here first.

How much of the oil is in the engine when cold as opposed to the tank?

About half a quart, give or take.

 

[dpancerz]

Darn. Don't think I have any crush washers. Bought a couple of filters, but didn't know I'd need the washers... Oh well...

I'm sure to be corrected by Ken but even with a few crush washers in my inventory at home I've re-used the one on the bike a time or two. Unless you see a puddle of oil under your bike after completing the maintenance, simply buy a new crush washer and install it next oil service. Wouldn't loose sleep over it at all.

David

 

[Smilodon]

In many ways, this bike isn't like most other bikes. So if you're not completely sure about the various maintenance procedures, do your homework beforehand. Even if that simply consists of asking here first.

About half a quart, give or take.

Yeah, CANBUS, dry-sump, big hole in the back where the axle should be, half of the swing-arm missing, extra turn signal switches, front forks are all flat and funny looking, no chain, brakes won't lock up like their supposed to... The list goes on and on. :

Well, when I actually get to doing the work, I get serious with the research. But I know I will have to do it eventually, so I "sort of look into it". In this case, I did end up not crush-washers with my filters, but haven't actually touched the bike yet.

Not there yet, mileage-wise, I hope it's sooner rather than later, actually. Because that means I'm riding the bike more, and that's a good thing!

BTW: Is there a generic source for the crush washers? I guess I could go to my dealer, another excuse to ride the bike (dealer is a way's away).

 

[Smilodon]

I'm sure to be corrected by Ken but even with a few crush washers in my inventory at home I've re-used the one on the bike a time or two. Unless you see a puddle of oil under your bike after completing the maintenance, simply buy a new crush washer and install it next oil service. Wouldn't loose sleep over it at all.

David

You out-braked me and got your post in first!

Yeah, know what you mean, but don't have a lot of time to ride my nearly new bike now, so I get to obsess about other stuff related to it like crush washers (and planning future trips)!

 

[Meese]

I'm sure to be corrected by Ken . . .

Nah, I've reused crush washers before. I wouldn't do it over and over again, but once doesn't hurt.

 

[dpancerz]

I hear you, Chris.

One thing about reusing the crush washers (I can hear Ken lecturing me already...). I make the assumption the one that's on the bike currently wasn't torqued down with an pneumatic tool by Gunther at the factory in Berlin. Also, when you snug up the drain plug with the old washer be mindful of your torque setting as well.

If the one on the bike doesn't look right when you take it off, time for a new one regardless. Let that common sense kick in and you'll be fine.

David