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Discussion Starter #1
i'm planning to powder coat the wheels to match the frame and all the black parts of my blue and white beloved S
has anyone mess with powder coat and would happen to have the right blend of black's or exactly the right one.
i usually buy my powders from THE EASTWOOD COMPANY or CASWELL.
both are U.S. based company that sell' products to their northern neibors.
stroker
 

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just be aware that the factory coating is a pain to remove. we have done several wheels so far and the factory coating is extremely resilient to removal (took four trips through the stripping tank).


regards,

ken zeller
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it depends on how strong the remover is, but with powder coat you can always coat over the oem one
i found some stuff at the local paint shop that works great but then again it depends what type of powder was used(epoxy based/polyester based/hybrid)
 

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A Follow-Up Powder Question

Just tonight I removed my K1200S wheels as I had planned on shipping them out Monday for powder coating... got the tires and rotors off, but spent almost an hour trying to knock the front bearings out with little success. Essentially, there is

1. one long spacer
2. 2 ball bearings (one on each side)
3. 2 shaft seal/bearing covers which have are partially made of rubber on the outermost sides that cover the bearings

I placed a socket on one side over one end of the spacer and started tapping with a hammer thinking it would tap straight out the other side, and it did actually move about 1/8" then it stopped... A beat on it for 1/2 hour longer and it didn't budge...

Unless someone here can shed some light on the secret of getting the bearings out.. I'll have to take it to a dealer Tuesday and let them do it..

Is a special tool needed?? Any tips/secrets/naked pics anyone would like to share for this procedure??
 

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Pirate said:
Just tonight I removed my K1200S wheels as I had planned on shipping them out Monday for powder coating... got the tires and rotors off, but spent almost an hour trying to knock the front bearings out with little success. Essentially, there is

1. one long spacer
2. 2 ball bearings (one on each side)
3. 2 shaft seal/bearing covers which have are partially made of rubber on the outermost sides that cover the bearings

I placed a socket on one side over one end of the spacer and started tapping with a hammer thinking it would tap straight out the other side, and it did actually move about 1/8" then it stopped... A beat on it for 1/2 hour longer and it didn't budge...

Unless someone here can shed some light on the secret of getting the bearings out.. I'll have to take it to a dealer Tuesday and let them do it..

Is a special tool needed?? Any tips/secrets/naked pics anyone would like to share for this procedure??
Pirate
I havn't really looked at the S wheels - , but usually one bearing is pressed against a shoulder in the wheel on one side and the other bearing is pressed in with the spacer between them. I am shure you looked to see if there was a circlip one one side? if so it needs to come out. Generally they say to heat the hub with a heat gun or carefully with a torch to about 200 deg. F. then use a punch to tap the spacer sideways on each side to see if you can get a shot at the inner race on the other side. if you can, tap around till it comes out. You will see how they want it to be done after dissassembly. they want you to install new bearings after this, because beating on the inner race can damage the races of the bearings. you have been warned ; - )
H
 

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Pirate said:
Just tonight I removed my K1200S wheels as I had planned on shipping them out Monday for powder coating... got the tires and rotors off, but spent almost an hour trying to knock the front bearings out with little success. Essentially, there is

1. one long spacer
2. 2 ball bearings (one on each side)
3. 2 shaft seal/bearing covers which have are partially made of rubber on the outermost sides that cover the bearings

I placed a socket on one side over one end of the spacer and started tapping with a hammer thinking it would tap straight out the other side, and it did actually move about 1/8" then it stopped... A beat on it for 1/2 hour longer and it didn't budge...

Unless someone here can shed some light on the secret of getting the bearings out.. I'll have to take it to a dealer Tuesday and let them do it..

Is a special tool needed?? Any tips/secrets/naked pics anyone would like to share for this procedure??


Couldn't that inner section of the hub be masked? Why can't you just let the painter create a round mask block there, not like you'll see it once the wheels put back on the bike...?
 

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HGP3 said:
Pirate
I havn't really looked at the S wheels - , but usually one bearing is pressed against a shoulder in the wheel on one side and the other bearing is pressed in with the spacer between them. ........
H
I can confirm this is the install method on my K75S wheels. Had to pull (not push) the bearing out before powder coating.
 

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Intelligent Design??

Pull?? As I suspected...and I'll bet it takes a special tool.. Great. I give up.. taking them the 4 hour round trip to the nearest dealer in the am to have them removed.. Geezz.. Another smart design feature by the Germans...

george_in_KG said:
I can confirm this is the install method on my K75S wheels. Had to pull (not push) the bearing out before powder coating.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i dont get it??!
pull from one side is the same as pushing from the other side

did the germans change physics
 

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bearing removal

Don't panic. It is easy with the right tools. Sears may have the tool, 1" or so small bearings, Posi-lock makes the caged bearing puller for the inner bearings, the puller ears are for either inner or outer, also a hammer slide bearing puller may be used. Heat with propane just a little and they will free up. We had the info posted on the old site. The bearings are available from Car Quest for about $12 a side. They just need to see the old one to match it up. I found this out bu going to Cincinnati twice, only 880 miles in a car. and the fee. One bearing is thicker than the other and needs removed first. If you could get someone to send a microfiche of the front wheel it would help. An electrical motor repair shop may have the tools as many motors use this size bearings. When you get the bearings out a couple of notches in the ends of the spacer will help with the next removal.
 

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bearing removal

Hammer bearing puller, Posi-lock inner bearing puller, Sears or internet, 1" inner type with the cage to pull the bearings, easy job with the right tools a little heat with propane helps. Can beat them out from the opposite side with a long punch.. I don't care for the OCC big hammer approach. Remove the thicker one first, Car Quest has replacement with the old ones for reference. $12 each. Microfiche would help, Cut two notches in the inner spacer to help with next removal, old post on the old site would help. 880 miles to Cincinatti dealer and I learned how to do it myself with the info from the old buddies.
 

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Appreciate the advice. It may be easy with the right tools, but as this was a one time gig.. I'll not invest the $$ to buy them.. I did manage to get them out with a full hour of gut wrenching hammer beating.. Destroyed one of the bearings but everything else seemed to come out intact. Just for my piece of mind I'll replace everything except the bearing seals when it goes back together and I'll let a dealer install them..

I hate to question my peers but are you sure you can get the same EXACT bearings in a US auto parts store?? Seems VERY unlikely...but I may just make a run to the nearest AutoZone to see what they have... and FYI.. yes.. I measured my bearings with a micrometer and yes.. one is slightly thicker than the other but by only about the thickness of a piece of paper..and they do actually have the same part # . Odd. I wonder how you know which goes in or out first? No matter.. I got them out... a dealer will put them back in.. Mission (seemingly) accomplished. Mongo happy.




BMWMAN said:
Don't panic. It is easy with the right tools. Sears may have the tool, 1" or so small bearings, Posi-lock makes the caged bearing puller for the inner bearings, the puller ears are for either inner or outer, also a hammer slide bearing puller may be used. Heat with propane just a little and they will free up. The bearings are available from Car Quest for about $12 a side. They just need to see the old one to match it up. One bearing is thicker than the other and needs removed first. If you could get someone to send a microfiche of the front wheel it would help. An electrical motor repair shop may have the tools as many motors use this size bearings. When you get the bearings out a couple of notches in the ends of the spacer will help with the next removal.
 

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Pirate said:
I hate to question my peers but are you sure you can get the same EXACT bearings in a US auto parts store?? Seems VERY unlikely...but I may just make a run to the nearest AutoZone to see what they have...
As a mechanical engineer, I find it amusing when people believe there is something special about a BMW motorcycle wheel bearing compared to a GE refrigerator compressor motor bearing. Neither of those companies have the time or resources to build their own bearings. They contract out to a company that specializes in making bearings. (Fafnir, Torrington, NSK, NHBB, Nice, etc.) If you look on the outer edge of the race, there is probably a number and the name of the manufacturer. The rest is just a matter of picking the number out of a book and getting that bearing or a cross reference to one that is exactly the same. You could probably find the bearing online with that information.

Cheers!!
 

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Myth Shattered..

Sir FLOG.. Have to admit.. you are 100% correct. I mistakenly did believe that the BMW factory parts were special, but I was proven wrong yesterday.

Took the factory BMW wheel bearings down to the local Advance Auto parts and they had an exact match for them. If anyone is interested.. Bearing # 105-CC and the brand is Federal Mogul /BCA Cost was $25ea.

Damn.. I thought I was gonna make it through 2005 without being wrong about anything... so close!!!

THx all for the advice...
 

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Paint Versus Powder Coat?

Currently I have a '03K1200RS, stock wheels, but prior to this I had a '96K1100rs black and silver. Hated the matte finish of the wheels and had Holt BMW in Athens, Ohio paint the wheels a matching silver. The finish on the painted wheels was extremely durable, looked smooth as glass and easy to clean. Painting eliminates the need to remove the bearings (at least that's my opinion), the dealer did all the prep work, as the bike was taken there for service and the wheel project.
 

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Yes.. but..

FrisbeeTiger said:
Painting eliminates the need to remove the bearings (at least that's my opinion), the dealer did all the prep work, as the bike was taken there for service and the wheel project.
Yes.. painting is MUCH easier but ... if you are changing tires often.. that paint will come off just as easily when a tire iron comes into contact with it no matter how careful you are. Powder does not. A good powder coat will last at least 2-5 years depending on environment.

Also.. most don't realize that a good powder coat job is usually CHEAPER than paint. My guy does both wheels for about $125... The new bearings I'll be installing cost $17 for both sides...
 
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