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2009 K1300S, 2014 KTM 1190R, 2000 VFR, 2008 C14
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You can stick a PC5 on it, but be prepared to tear things open, Tank off, airbox etc. You have to pull the fuel rail to get to the injector harness and put the PC harness "in the middle" of the existing connectors. Also remove the TPS and plug in the connector from the PC, connect to battery, mount the PC unit at the tail. Not terrible, but does involve a lot of removal and put back. Though it is a good chance to inspect and get to know what is under the hood. To get the most from a PC you should roll by a dyno shop and let them plug in and tune the bike. The canned PC tunes work, but are not equal to a dyno shop tune.

A dyno shop tune is actually pretty reasonable. Couple hours on the machine is typically 275-400 bucks. My 1300S came with a PC5, but not shop tuned. I swung by a dyno shop for tuning, noticeable difference.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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So, 2nd and 3rd gear, what rpm are you talking about trying to pull out of? You should be working above 4000. The real pulling starts above 5500, my S model starts serious hard pull at 8500.
 

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Or you can buy a plug and play AFXied. Have a search on the site for Power Commander, AFXied, and Booster plug. There is a huge amount of information here on those three options.
And as Beech said, check that you are actually keeping above 4000.
 

· IBR# 366
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The first owner of my '09 K13GT suffered from low-speed fueling issues where if you'd been riding down the highway for a while then came down an offramp to a light, the idle would be trimmed so low that the bike could die. BMW bought the bike back, then took it to a US-based BMW tech center and hand-tuned the fueling map as part of the overall investigation and development of a new K13GT fuel map.

That bike has run flawlessly for the past decade, in all weather and temp conditions without a single hiccup, despite my best efforts to kill it a couple of times. :D

So your options are:

1) Rev higher :D

2) New software from BMW dealer (latest fuel map)

3) AFXied

4) Power Commander

4a) Power Commander with a custom dyno tune

I'd stay away from the BoosterPlug, as all it does is shift the incoming air temp signal to force the bike to run richer. It kinda works, but it's not smart at all...
 
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2009 K1300S, 2014 KTM 1190R, 2000 VFR, 2008 C14
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50 Posts
The first owner of my '09 K13GT suffered from low-speed fueling issues where if you'd been riding down the highway for a while then came down an offramp to a light, the idle would be trimmed so low that the bike could die.
My 2009 1300S would do this coming off the freeway from time to time. Has not done it since dyno tune.
 

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So, 2nd and 3rd gear, what rpm are you talking about trying to pull out of? You should be working above 4000. The real pulling starts above 5500, my S model starts serious hard pull at 8500.

if you move a GT to Sport the electronics allow it to run without you grandmother taking the key out and flushing down the toilet at any possible opportunity - then you can open the throttle and as Beech says after 8k something happens

if you are NOT running the last BM map from 2011 and super unleaded (AKA high enough octane it switches to its standard map - not the moped map most use from running std unleaded) you will be shocked how much more sprightly it is everywhere on the fuel they meant you to use... it even sounds happier at idle on real petrol
 

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The PC5 have been problematic at best there is a PC6 out but you must take this junk to a tuning. I had the PC5 taken off my bike as it was junk. Dyno Jet redesigned the Pc 5 several time and the auto tune too. This bike will make you wish for a simpler machine with carbs.
 

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216 Posts
It sounds like your lugging the engine with low rpm’s. Your rpm shift points are off if your not getting decent pull out of 2nd and 3rd.
Don’t be afraid to run higher rpm’s to shift, higher rpm‘s is better on the crank and better for all internal parts, theres more stress and wear on an engine at lower rpm’s than higher, It can’t build torque or hp down low.
I’m not saying go to redline every shift quite the contrary, just take it to where next gear shift already puts you at or past 5k, it will solve all the power and pulling issues.
I did install the Booster plug for better lower rpm throttle response and it does work well along with the correct shift point rpm. Sorry to say but this is a case of rider error.
 

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518 Posts
The first owner of my '09 K13GT suffered from low-speed fueling issues where if you'd been riding down the highway for a while then came down an offramp to a light, the idle would be trimmed so low that the bike could die. BMW bought the bike back, then took it to a US-based BMW tech center and hand-tuned the fueling map as part of the overall investigation and development of a new K13GT fuel map.

That bike has run flawlessly for the past decade, in all weather and temp conditions without a single hiccup, despite my best efforts to kill it a couple of times. :D

So your options are:

1) Rev higher :D

2) New software from BMW dealer (latest fuel map)

3) AFXied

4) Power Commander

4a) Power Commander with a custom dyno tune

I'd stay away from the BoosterPlug, as all it does is shift the incoming air temp signal to force the bike to run richer. It kinda works, but it's not smart at all...
The first run of Power Commanders 5 and Auto Tunes had problems. I let the bike sit for a while and it wouldn't start till the Power Commander was removed. They have a PC6 now!
 

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K1300S, KTM 1190 Adventure, CBR100XX
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Had similar on my K1300S after changing the slip on for a Delkevic, 2nd and 3rd flat spot was realy noticeable until i put a Rapid Bike Easy on, game changer!
I had zero problems after that and only plugs inline with your o2 sensor.
 
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