[KhCombs]

So it's been a solid thousand miles since my clutch job. Bike runs well about as same as before I love her and her flaws. I'm still getting that guttural grinding when I don't aggressively shift over 8k rpms. And if my ticket from last week wasn't a true warning I can't be driving like that. So in an attempt to add some "preload" I figured I adjust the linkage. Welp you see those 10mm nuts are a thickle devil and as much as I hate to admit it, it's a goner. I've "procured" another shift rod linkage from my local dealership who proceeded to call and let me know it's 8 weeks out from the Fatherland. So I'm back to this age old question can I retro fit a salvaged hp quickshifter on my bike if it didn't come with one? As well as where in God's green earth do I plug that electrical wire into? Someone online said the shifter controller housing potentiometer, like that suppose to mean something.

Thanks in advance.

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

Check out the healtech video on fitting quickshifter

Healtech Quick Shifter Easy for BMW K1200, K1300

Check out the deal on Healtech Quick Shifter Easy for BMW K1200, K1300 at Accessories International

www.accessoryinternational.com

 

[KhCombs]

Check out the healtech video on fitting quickshifter

Healtech Quick Shifter Easy for BMW K1200, K1300

Check out the deal on Healtech Quick Shifter Easy for BMW K1200, K1300 at Accessories International

www.accessoryinternational.com

Not sure on all that the OEM shifter is 1 wire and a refresh on the ecu. Didn't want to go aftermarket. Nor does the video even explain where he plugs the 3 wires in.

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^ this is what I'm looking at. It has 1 pig tail not 3.

 

[KhCombs]

Also said bike in video on healtechs site is a Yamaha :/

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

1 wire would be power, one be earth and 3rd has to plug in between the ecu and QS to get the QS signal to cut spark....

 

[KhCombs]

1 wire would be power, one be earth and 3rd has to plug in between the ecu and QS to get the QS signal to cut spark....

Sorry there is a misunderstanding here. I'm not using the healtech and really not interested going that route.

Google Image Result for https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KR8AAOSwgFFj2tSk/s-l1600.jpg

This is a better image of what I'm looking at. It's 1 pig tail not 3 so where does that 1 pigtail plug in.

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

No probs mate. Others on here with this unit fitted may be able to help. IIRC the bmw version is one-way only, needing clutch operation for downshifting?

 

[Vegeta2410]

No probs mate. Others on here with this unit fitted may be able to help. IIRC the bmw version is one-way only, needing clutch operation for downshifting?

correct, one way only in this case, later model bikes like S1000RR started with the gearshift assist pro , bi-directional “quick shifter”. 2014 if I recall correctly.


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[KhCombs]

correct, one way only in this case, later model bikes like S1000RR started with the gearshift assist pro , bi-directional “quick shifter”. 2014 if I recall correctly.


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One way (upshifting) is exactly what I want the bike needs help shifting perfectly on its ups. Sorry if my orginial comment was to vague. What I'm confused on is there going to be a capped off pigtail where I can add this quickshift or do i have to unplug something and override?

 

[KhCombs]

I have no issue Rev matching to downshift what I have is a problem having to bring the bike to 8k rpms to shift on a road where the speed limit is 45.

 

[WPV]

One way (upshifting) is exactly what I want the bike needs help shifting perfectly on its ups. Sorry if my orginial comment was to vague. What I'm confused on is there going to be a capped off pigtail where I can add this quickshift or do i have to unplug something and override?

If I recall correctly, that wire is routed up to an unused harness pigtail under the seat, and it will fit only one of matching shape. It is a pain to route correctly. I hope others will agree with my recollection or correct it. Good luck.

 

[CKD1]

Walt is correct, the connector is under the seat, left side. I added the the shift assist to a 2009 1300S, takes about 13 minutes and 1 can of beer (duration can be lengthened as installer sees fit). Then break out your patience as you will head to a dealer where they have to connect to the mothership and get the ECU to accept the shifter. Make sure they order the "code" to activate it. The code is good for 48 hours once bought (73 US pennies if I recall correct) so schedule with dealer, drop bike, and go do something else, maybe for a day or two. Took the Seattle dealer a couple days. Not a common practice for technicians so don't give them a hard time about how long it takes. The shift assit works excellent and worth the wait for programming. I bought the shifter and installed myself thinking it was more involved, but just have the dealer install it as they will have plenty of time to loiter while trying to get the bike to talk to BMW. Per Walt- Good Luck!

Just a thought- If your shifting is crap below 8K right now I'm not certain a shift assist is going to be your end all fix, but if you do get all rpm shifting rolling smooth then you'll love the shift assist.

 

[CKD1]

Plug it in here- the shiny cable is the QS cable.

 

[KhCombs]

Plug it in here- the shiny cable is the QS cable.


View attachment 33390

Thank you!!!
This is exactly what I needed. I know I'm gonna have to pay to program that's no big deal. I just couldn't figure out that damned plug.

 

[Corkboy]

Check out the healtech video on fitting quickshifter

Healtech Quick Shifter Easy for BMW K1200, K1300

Check out the deal on Healtech Quick Shifter Easy for BMW K1200, K1300 at Accessories International

www.accessoryinternational.com

Installation instrutions for a K1200R
QSH-F4D__BMW_K1200R__2005-2008.pdf (healtech-electronics.com)

Ohhhh, that looks sweet. Went down the rabbit hole and found that it can be installed on the K1200GT, and hooks into the fuel injectors by the throttle bodies. Just €306 from the factory. Do I need it, no, do I want it, hell yes

 

[WPV]

The restriction on BMW shift assist is that you must be accelerating with throttle applied and not recommended in the 1>2 shift. It does not have to be hard acceleration. I am guessing the 1>2 restriction is because of the potential to hang it in neutral at high RPM and lots of throttle.

 

[Beech]

wpv is right on, my theory about the 1/2 shift is it is a bit too long of a time frame for the pre set computer ignition interruption. Use it on the highway not around town.

 

[KhCombs]

wpv is right on, my theory about the 1/2 shift is it is a bit too long of a time frame for the pre set computer ignition interruption. Use it on the highway not around town.

Let me get this straight the hp shift assist can't be used from 1st to 2nd gear?

 

[WPV]

It will work, but there is a reason BMW doesn't want you to. As in RED OCTOBER, "105% reactor is possible, but not recommended." I just remembered something about full throttle / max RPM being a no-no as well. That might be an unmanageable wheel stand situation or working in an even shorter time for the ignition interuption with which to deal?

 

[KhCombs]

It will work, but there is a reason BMW doesn't want you to. As in RED OCTOBER, "105% reactor is possible, but not recommended." I just remembered something about full throttle / max RPM being a no-no as well. That might be an unmanageable wheel stand situation or working in an even shorter time for the ignition interuption with which to deal?

Well I'm never really thinking max rpm on shift I'm usually around 7-10. In that regard would it be alright or am I still running into castrophic failure? I just feel like these rough shifts are due to the engine not fully disengaging on clutch pull. My thought process is the hp shift assist cuts the power to the engine instantly and reengages. Mind you I'm probably the least technically inclined on the fourm so take my description with a grain of salt.