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I've had my 2000 k1200rs 3yrs now love the bike and have had no issues with it, nothing left to do to it so,I bought a 1996 R1100RT with a salvage title to repair back neer stock ,no frame wheel or frontend damage, mostly plastic work.got a corbin seat ,bar risers, foot pegs that fit on the heads, now I want to tell you all of the problem with the pegs on the head set up ,the bracket that is bolted to the head is about .200inch thick thus you have .200in less of threads holding the valve cover and foot peg bracket and that makes it quite weaker ,so when the bike was laid down it pulled the forwars bolt right out of the theads ,it is a 6mm ,so a 7mm thread will give a full thead of available material left in that bolt hole, I'm putting all thread 7mm in that hole ,and for the remaining top valve cover bolts willbe replaced with 6mm SS all thread so all will have thread to the bottom of each valve cover bolt hole, Anyway would some one who has hade each of these bikes give me there comparison for comfortable long distance mountain road touring? or overall opinion of each bike? thanks joesflashdog
 

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I had a R1100RT and it was a fine bike. Biggest issues on that model then were seals on the tranny, spline lube - or lack of, and the final drive. Compared to the K1200GT I have now, I would have to say the RT was better in bad weather conditions, was lighter in weight, and could turn quicker in the twisties than the K series can today. The K can outrun the R in almost anything on straights by far. I guess that equates to "Speed" vs. "Riding capability and ease of maintenance." The RT is pretty much tuned-in and in fail-safe mode now. The K is still evolving and has still has sundry issues.

Thinking back, the R gave me less headaches than the K which has had it's share of new model issues. They say the K is cheaper to maintain, but I haven't found that to be true. With the RT, I could do most everything myself. Not so much with the K, even though it's major service issues are farther apart than the RT (i.e. valve adj. intervals where the R is easy to do at home).

I can see where a R of that era can be totaled out in something as simple as a tip-over since BMW puts a very high (almost ridiculous!) price on body-work pieces. I wouldn't be surprised if my '06 K in a tip-over in another year or two gets a "Totaled-Out" slip by the insurance and submitted as salvage.


Mack
 
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