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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a 2014 KS and noticed that there is not a fill cap at the rear drive. I am assuming the drain is behind the wheel which requires removal to access. Is the fill port shared with the speed sensor? In addition, do the drive splines require moly lube occasionally as done on the GS models? My dealer said no however with the architecture of the design being similar, I question their answer. Your words of wisdom will be appreciated.
 

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The k12 had the fill port shared with the speed sensor but on the k13 I believe item 10 on Bradmiesters diagram is the fill plug. The splines - both ends definitely need lubricating. I would be checking out another dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I recently purchased a 2014 KS and noticed that there is not a fill cap at the rear drive. I am assuming the drain is behind the wheel which requires removal to access. Is the fill port shared with the speed sensor? In addition, do the drive splines require moly lube occasionally as done on the GS models? My dealer said no however with the architecture of the design being similar, I question their answer. Your words of wisdom will be appreciated.
Same on the 1300GT. From the diagram above, #10 is the fill ( access by removing the rear wheel) and drain is #8
Thank you kindly for the diagram, I will remove the wheel and take a gander. Is there a trick one uses to support the bike when removing the fd to service? I use a stand that supports the bike by slipping through the rear drive. I need some type of rigging to hoist the bike up without using a jack under the exhaust system. Thoughts?
 

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Thank you kindly for the diagram, I will remove the wheel and take a gander. Is there a trick one uses to support the bike when removing the fd to service? I use a stand that supports the bike by slipping through the rear drive. I need some type of rigging to hoist the bike up without using a jack under the exhaust system. Thoughts?
Your stand supports the bike at the rear wheel drive housing, you can take the tire off. You probably need to move the exhaust can outwards a bit to get enough clearance to get the rim of lip of the axle sleeve.
Get the fill plug out BEFORE you drain the oil.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Your stand supports the bike at the rear wheel drive housing, you can take the tire off. You probably need to move the exhaust can outwards a bit to get enough clearance to get the rim of lip of the axle sleeve.
Get the fill plug out BEFORE you drain the oil.


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No issue with fluid change, the challenge is supporting the bike to service the splines.
 

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a few options:
  • get the center stand for the bike ( probably the easiest and safest solution)
  • get a small jack and jack it up, there are a few posts in the forum
-get the becker service lifter , that’s a hard find , easy in Europe but US is almost impossible.


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I was able to locate a company in Germany that carries the Becker lifter. Their website mentions the lift for a K1300R however not one for an "S" model, awaiting clarification however I think that may be the way to go. Thanks for the info.
I was able to locate a company in Germany that carries the Becker lifter. Their website mentions the lift for a K1300R however not one for an "S" model, awaiting clarification however I think that may be the way to go. Thanks for the info.
I was able to locate a company in Germany that carries the Becker lifter. Their website mentions the lift for a K1300R however not one for an "S" model, awaiting clarification however I think that may be the way to go. Thanks for the info.
you have to take the belly pan of, that’s why it works only on the R without let’s say… modification.
I have that lifter and can’t ask anything better.
You could try to mount the lifting pins on the outside so they slide from the inside through the center stand mounting holes, that would avoid taking the belly pan off.
Hornig sells it with their label on it but it’s made bei Becker Technik






Good luck!


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I was able to locate a company in Germany that carries the Becker lifter. Their website mentions the lift for a K1300R however not one for an "S" model, awaiting clarification however I think that may be the way to go. Thanks for the info.
I found them too, but a bit expensive so I made my own, with the kind help from @Mattis and the drawings he provided.
Automotive tire Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle
Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior
Automotive tire Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Vehicle

Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior
 

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Wheel Tire Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle


Automotive tire Automotive lighting Vehicle Bumper Motor vehicle




I made one as well but instead of the BMW three post design I made mine four using the mounting points for the centre stand that I don’t have. Between the front and rear lift marks I can raise the whole bike off the ground.
 

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That stand holds the front up not the back. Poster... remember the drain plug is Torx not hex. 20Nm torque tightening. Same for fill plug. Check the oring for quality before reuse. And clean the bore before removal. Yes, both ends the splines need lube, something with moly in it. Make sure your rubber boot is in good condition and the plastic snap parts at each end are in good shape. Lube the ends of them with red rubber grease or the special bmw spec grease as it helps them to fit and seal out moisture. This is simple maintenance but technical also. There are posts on this forum. 180ml of gear lube. You will need to remove the long bar (torque bar) to drop the final drive. (wheel off) support things with some blocks under the brake disk.
 

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View attachment 31599

View attachment 31602



I made one as well but instead of the BMW three post design I made mine four using the mounting points for the centre stand that I don’t have. Between the front and rear lift marks I can raise the whole bike off the ground.
Would you have a diagram on measurements. This is a great idea and a much cheaper alternative.
 

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That stand holds the front up not the back. Poster... remember the drain plug is Torx not hex. 20Nm torque tightening. Same for fill plug. Check the oring for quality before reuse. And clean the bore before removal. Yes, both ends the splines need lube, something with moly in it. Make sure your rubber boot is in good condition and the plastic snap parts at each end are in good shape. Lube the ends of them with red rubber grease or the special bmw spec grease as it helps them to fit and seal out moisture. This is simple maintenance but technical also. There are posts on this forum. 180ml of gear lube. You will need to remove the long bar (torque bar) to drop the final drive. (wheel off) support things with some blocks under the brake disk.
Hi from Brisbane Australia.
This is the first shaft driven bike I have owned and want to make sure I maintain it. I will plan to do this as soon as I have the work stand arrive.
How often should the splines be greased ?

I was planning on using severe duty 5% molybdenum disulfide lithium complex but not sure if it would work (used on heavy duty machinery). https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/product/black-tak-molyplex-grease/

Most videos only show lubing one end of the spline. So I should be able to pull the whole shaft out and lube both ends ? Any pictures or links ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was able to acquire a new center stand with all the hardware! Shipping from Germany today. Only reason I need it is to service the splines. I have one of Chris Andersons space saver rear lifts that raise the rear by having a post go through the rear drive and has casters to allow the rear of the bike to be rolled around, left, right , forward, reverse to aide with parking it. I would imagine the centerstand should do the job. I wish "Bike Tower" would manufacture one for the K1300S, I have one of those lifts for my S1000RR that raises the entire bike and also is on casters to allow rolling it around in the garage.
 

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Spline lube frequency; don't bother more often than 20K miles or so. Maybe every 3 years. The big thing is to make sure the rubber boots seal. The front splines I just push back the front edge of the boot, push back the female portion of the spline 15mm or so and work in some lube all around and close it up. If you do completely remove the drive line for this work you will need to take a heavy wire and make a loop that you can pick up the front of the u joint to get it onto the output spline.
 

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Thank you kindly for the diagram, I will remove the wheel and take a gander. Is there a trick one uses to support the bike when removing the fd to service? I use a stand that supports the bike by slipping through the rear drive. I need some type of rigging to hoist the bike up without using a jack under the exhaust system. Thoughts?
To support the bike when removing the final drive, you could buy the center stand from BMW. That should do it. See the MAX BMW Parts Fische, Section 46, for details. I suggest getting one before they're no longer available. I bought one last year.
 
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