BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
I would think it is not a coincidence that the wobble came after a recent tire change, which included rear wheel removal. I would take the wheel off and make sure the fasteners were done up right and that the wheel was mounted properly to the hub. After that it gets $$$$.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
Yep, I missed the brake rotor wobble. Good luck.
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
We are assuming since the brake rotor is out of true that the wheel RIM must be, which excludes the tire?

The rear wheel bearing should not go out of true like you said. Is this something you just noticed after the tire change, or could it have always been there?

"It is the rear end and not just the wheel" - are you sure it is the brake rotor relative to the casing of the rear drive and NOT the complete drive itself (swingarm bearings?)?

The only thing I can think of is the rear wheel has taken a big knock from a road hole and the wheel shaft/hub has bent? :yeow:

You should also rotate the hub/wheel and check the ABS sensor spacing at several wheel positions. If the hub is badly out of true, you may even spot zero clearance and wear on the sensor surface from the ABS ring teeth making contact.

Remove the rear wheel and confirm the rear brake rotor is running out of true as well as the ABS ring. If they are then I am sorry but you have to do some serious investigation on the rear drive hub.

It is not good to keep riding the bike like this, more expensive damage can be done and there is always the risk of a total rear end failure at speed. I am surprised you have not noticed something through the rear brake pedal, but then with servos, maybe not.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
We removed and replaced the wheel flange with another one, which seemed to help a little. My feeling is that the hub is either bent or the threads were not correctectly machined. Perhaps I will replace the brake rotor, but it seems that no one, other than BMW, seems to manufacture these anymore, unless someone out there knows where to get one, but $400 from BMW is too steep.

The alternative is to replace the entire final drive, but I may wait until it actually fails. I'm willing to pony up the $$$ if that solves the wobble and potential future FD failures. I heard the replacement is made slightly different, possibly averting future failures. Anyone know if this is the case? :confused:

What to do??
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
EBC makes brake rotors for the Slant/4 bikes. I may even have a new one sitting in my garage . . .

The K13GT final drive does have some internal improvements. There were a few outer oil seal leaks (not catastrophic at all), but no major bearing failures that I'm aware of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ken, r u sure? The local repair shop said he couldn't get them for the rear anymore from EBC. I too have perused the web and have had no luck... The front rotors are avail, but not the rear... :dunno:
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
I'm sure I have one new in the box somewhere in the garage, along with the mounting bolts. Let me see if I can find it . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Meese, I just found one MD688 on perfectbrakes.com, so will give that a shot. Certainly a lot less expensive than oem, and I think EBC has a pretty good reputation..?
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
CanAmK12GT said:
We removed and replaced the wheel flange with another one, which seemed to help a little. My feeling is that the hub is either bent or the threads were not correctectly machined. Perhaps I will replace the brake rotor, but it seems that no one, other than BMW, seems to manufacture these anymore, unless someone out there knows where to get one, but $400 from BMW is too steep.

The alternative is to replace the entire final drive, but I may wait until it actually fails. I'm willing to pony up the $$$ if that solves the wobble and potential future FD failures. I heard the replacement is made slightly different, possibly averting future failures. Anyone know if this is the case? :confused:

What to do??
I bought a genuine oem rear rotor with integral ABS ring (a lot of metal) from here for around £95 for my K12RS. I could not believe the price and it blew away prices for the non-oem (without ABS ring). I had to phone them to confirm for my bike that the rotor was complete with ring and oem which they did. Haven't fitted it yet, but it is the oem real deal.

Look for parts specific to your bike and check their international shipping rates:

PS: if you have had bad alignment issues and an off center hub, do not re-use parts like rotor and pads, sort the problem and replace both.

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=50&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_50_IA_55



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thx, Vox. I think only the EBC disk will fit as the GT has a diff part # than the RS. I did find a few places that sell the EBC rotor stateside, so will go with that and some CL pads, and a new flange. I hope this works cause I'm don't mind spending the $ if it does, in light of the fact that I got a good deal on the bike.

Another question. Are the replacement FDs proven to be solid performers? I may even lay down the cash for that since the flange will be incl., with a 24 month warranty. I mean if there is a good chance the FD will fail anyhow, wouldn't it be a cost worthy decision? What do u think?

Thank you!
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
Looks like the MD688 rotor is running $150-$160, plus shipping and possible tax. Sure beats $377 from BMW . . .

If you give me a day to find the new one I have in a box in the garage, I can make you a heck of a deal . . .

You might think about replacing the entire final drive with the K13GT part, but you're looking at well over $1,800 to do so . . .

I think first I'd try to figure out exactly what's wrong with yours. Maybe it's just a flange, or maybe a qualified dealer can rebuild yours using specific parts and new seals for a lot less cash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Meese said:
Looks like the MD688 rotor is running $150-$160, plus shipping and possible tax. Sure beats $377 from BMW . . .

If you give me a day to find the new one I have in a box in the garage, I can make you a heck of a deal . . .

You might think about replacing the entire final drive with the K13GT part, but you're looking at well over $1,800 to do so . . .

I think first I'd try to figure out exactly what's wrong with yours. Maybe it's just a flange, or maybe a qualified dealer can rebuild yours using specific parts and new seals for a lot less cash.

Meese, what is the diff between the k13 and k12 FDs! Or is that posted already in this forum? Thanks!
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
Yeah, that's definitely not normal . . .

It might be a bearing issue, meaning the FD could be rebuilt, although I doubt most dealers have much experience at that. Still, before dropping $1,800 I'd at least ask some questions . . .

Not sure of the exact difference between the FDs, except that eventually they added a proper drain plug (I think that was in '07 though).

I believe the K13 has different seals, a larger input shaft bearing, and maybe a different large main bearing.

You need to find a good factory or independent mechanic to take a look and give you some specific advice for your bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Think they've modified the FD again as mine got replaced and my new one even has a proper fill plug with copper ring on the inside face at the 1 O'clock position, Im sure the original didn't and had to be filled through the speed sensor hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Special-K said:
Think they've modified the FD again as mine got replaced and my new one even has a proper fill plug with copper ring on the inside face at the 1 O'clock position, Im sure the original didn't and had to be filled through the speed sensor hole.

Mine has the drain plug at 3 o'clock. I had the fluid changed the other day and the fluid looked fine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Meese said:
Looks like the MD688 rotor is running $150-$160, plus shipping and possible tax. Sure beats $377 from BMW . . .

If you give me a day to find the new one I have in a box in the garage, I can make you a heck of a deal . . .

You might think about replacing the entire final drive with the K13GT part, but you're looking at well over $1,800 to do so . . .

I think first I'd try to figure out exactly what's wrong with yours. Maybe it's just a flange, or maybe a qualified dealer can rebuild yours using specific parts and new seals for a lot less cash.
Meese - what are the particulars of the spare rotor you have for sale?

BTW, I just came back from an hour long ride and the rear rotor wasn't warm in the least, so apparently it isn't rubbing the rotor too much...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
The video helps. I'll give you my two cents worth on this. It appears that your entire hub is not running true. The question is why. It could be the final drive bearing is failing. If it's the bearing you can certainly confirm by holding the tire at the top and bottom and check for any side to side movement or play. I had the same problem on my 06 and replaced the drive myself with the updated version. The new drive cost me $1900.00 but now I can at least change the final drive lube on regular intervals. Good luck and…..
Happy New Year!

John
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top