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Discussion Starter #1
I am removing the gas tank on my K 1200 S for the first time. Is there anything that I should be aware of when doing so?
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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Two electric connections, one vent line and the pressure line. All need to be disconnected with the tank lifted only a couple of inches. Be sure to push in the pressure disconnect device all the way so it won't nick the o-ring, same for going back together. Do not put any sideways pressure on it. The whole process is just a little pesky. The power connections have the little slip to lock clip that are on the spark plug coils. Not that easy, I use a small pick to just wedge under the lip of the lock tab and then a small screwdriver blade to twist between the two halves to pop them apart. Of course be low on fuel. If not I recommend you syphon some out. Have a spot cleared before hand to put it down.
 

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Be careful removing the panels. I found on my k12R that even on the same panel, two of the three ‘
‘Pins’ that push into rubber grommets on the frame to secure it are just that. Pull out to remove panel and push back into re attach. The third however may have a circlip on the back that must be removed before removing the panel. Not sure if this is the case on the ‘S’
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Two electric connections, one vent line and the pressure line. All need to be disconnected with the tank lifted only a couple of inches. Be sure to push in the pressure disconnect device all the way so it won't nick the o-ring, same for going back together. Do not put any sideways pressure on it. The whole process is just a little pesky. The power connections have the little slip to lock clip that are on the spark plug coils. Not that easy, I use a small pick to just wedge under the lip of the lock tab and then a small screwdriver blade to twist between the two halves to pop them apart. Of course be low on fuel. If not I recommend you syphon some out. Have a spot cleared before hand to put it down.
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Thank you. What is the purpose of the Evap bypass?
The reason to do this is that the filter becomes clogged over time and sometimes it can even become fuel soaked from overfills. This causes a very uneven idle. The issues are well documented on many forums. Removing it does clear the issue. It worked on my bike.

Google it and decide for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you. What is the purpose of the Evap bypass?
The reason to do this is that the filter becomes clogged over time and sometimes it can even become fuel soaked from overfills. This causes a very uneven idle. The issues are well documented on many forums. Removing it does clear the issue. It worked on my bike.


Google it and decide for yourself.

Sounds a little tricky without directions. Can you send them to me?
 

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It's not hard but it takes a little time. Ditto on the above to go ahead and replace the POC plastic quick disconnects with the metal option. See beemerboneyard.com and other places. Mix up the blue locktite real good and DON"T OVERTIGHTEN!!!
 

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Kind of late chiming in on this, but if you are having issues with surging or running at low speeds, now is a good time to put one of these on AF-XiED O2 Sensor Manipulators. You have to remove the fuel tank to install this because the required connector is buried under it. Also, get the metal quick disconnects before you start because the plastic ones are as brittle as a piece of dry macaroni and are sure to break while removing the tank.
 

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DouglasM, I'd like a copy of the evap delete instructions to [email protected]

Already replaced the QC on the tank.

I have a resistor tuning device that cost about 2 mpg around town and I (still) have low-rpm running issues, so next thing to try will be the evap delete.

TIA, Charlie
 
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