BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner

21 - 23 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
Joined
·
321 Posts
Any measurements? OD and diameter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thanks for the info Patrique. I was considering just changing the cmshaft sprocket on my K12. How did you find out about the revised profiles? This from Motorworks

A kit comprising the timing chain, the crank and camshaft sprockets.

Please note: this kit applies only to bikes produced before 11/2006.

Bikes produced from 11/2006 use the following;

11317707207 Timing chain
11317701209 Camshaft sprocket

There is no separate crankshaft sprocket available for bikes produced after 11/2006.

It looks like they use the same crankshaft sprocket

Is the new crankshaft sprocket easy enough to get off and back on? One consideration that has me a bit concerned is when the timing marks are aligned with the top of the cylinder head, how is the chain fitted to ensure that it is tensioned on the non tensioned side and that as well the teeth on the sprocket align with a gap in the chain and not a pin. Thanks for your assistance.

I've put a K1200GT '07 engine into my '05 S replacing it's blown* engine came to understand that it wasn't the fuel mapping / tune & airbox solely responsible for the S & it's additional horsepower over the GT that the S had a wilder valvetrain which I didn't end up swapping initially but when the cam chain tensioner failed and oil light came on horrible rattle I had to pull it apart valve cover and all so I said if you're ever going swap the cams now is the time to do it but you take off the sprocket that is on the cam top side and it will either go on lined up or it won't use zip ties to ensure chain position on it stays put rotate chain around crank sprocket tooth at a time until chain and cam sprocket zip tied pull tight over on the shaft like a lid goes on a McDonald's cup but it will drop right on flat and the little pin fits in the notch on the end of the camshaft or it will not and refuse to lay flat.

*#4's conrod chucked through the case making it's exit in similar fashion the koolaid character makes an entrance shortly (2 miles) after borrowing hose clamp from the breather hose for a roadside fuel line re repair of splice made to lengthen line 3" post 3rd quick connect job to make tank removal / install possible well didn't understand dry sump design how that hose creates a 15psi/ 1 bar pressure in the oil bucket which without that clamp is like trying to inflate a punctured tire and the oil pumped oil out of engine into the bucket at the top but was not enough psi to push it back out the bottom & through the oil filter leaving the bearings parched while unfortunately was just after I had the plug out of the alarm connector and it got ran over and the 120 ohm CANBUS terminating resistor had to be spliced back in then shrink tubed had eventually bent the pins into each other shorting or one pin came off inside leaving an open circuit which I hadn't quite figured out that's why thinking I had to ISTA-P to make the dash start working after needing to replace my ZFE that burnt up after therefore the oil light didn't display and any kind noise it might have made likely drowned out by stereo (customized GPS tank ring mount for a GOHAWK dual 3" built in amp after buying every kind of headphones in helmet speaker system & just nothing was loud enough but had trouble with lack of round handlebars but found the perfect hardware in the junk as is corner of IKEA to make it look like a factory option)
 
21 - 23 of 23 Posts
Top