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RVS metal-ceramic treatment

2K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  Mac 
#1 ·
Has anyone tried this:
http://www.rvs-tec.ca/
http://www.rvs-tec.com/English/
http://www.rvs-tec.fi/


I put it in my KS right after first service and second time after the 10000km service and third time i put it after about 15000km, when i made an extra oil change. First right after putting that the bike is little rougher, but after while it get much better. Same after each time. I think that really does something. Here was one skeptic TV-program, where they test it and they drove that car without oil 200km after that treatment. It worked fine till one rubber sealing started to burn. They didn't find damages from metal parts, but that rubber didn't last to run dry. I also used it to my former KRS. I somehow believe in that product. Check it out.
 
#2 ·
how many dealerships have you seen use that type of crap or how many car companies recommend you use that kind of crap????? none because if that crap really worked car companies would be using it. as a matter of fact most car companies advise against using such addatives in your engine. i would change the oil based on the manufacturers recommended interval and stay away from addatives. my 2 cent
 
#3 ·
The configuration of the K engine has Nickasil liners. Nickel is a work hardening metal. It will wear but at a slower rate . Should you run a compression or leakdown test and find that the piston ring to cyclinder wall seal is allowing bypass you can use the Restore product with CSL. This product will work but only for the seal between the rings and the wall. It does not fully restore the seal but definitley improves it. I would add 1 4cyl can each year. None of this is necessary if you have good compression. The K bike is quite durable in that department. We have used the Restore product with great success. If your cylinder has over 15% piston ring leakdown(warm) it is better to consider a repair for top performance. My comments on the Restore product are based on my use of it on worn motors with compression and leakdown tests both before and after. Keep in mind the product can take upto 500 miles to fully develop its benefits. Most results are measureable at 300-350 miles. DO NOT USE IT IN WET CLUTCH APPLICATIONS.
Also - if the bike has had long term bad maintanance you may wish to consider products that clean the rings so they can move freely in the piston ring land and work properly.
 
#4 ·
how many dealerships have you seen use that type of crap or how many car companies recommend you use that kind of crap????? none because if that crap really worked car companies would be using it. as a matter of fact most car companies advise against using such addatives in your engine. i would change the oil based on the manufacturers recommended interval and stay away from addatives. my 2 cent
I think this is different product from those additives and the point is not to change anything with oil quality. It's some kind of mixture of catalyst and mostly magnesium silicate. I have always wondered how the hell in catalysator it changes those poisonous gases to water and carbon dioxide. This should be some kind of similar cemical reaction with heat, catalyst and magnesium silicates to some kind of metal-ceramic stuff. If it really makes cemically harder surface in those friction surfaces, motor should last much more. That's why i put it in my new motor. In their site they say, that it wouldn't effect in wet clutch, because it doesn't change oild properties and does only do that cemical thing with metal surfaces. I have used it without any problem in the clutch.

In considering to put turbo in my slow fatty-a-cow KS, but BMW doesn't recommend it. I wouldn't mind, if the engine last it better. Local authority is still problem with those paperworks. Here is one workshop: MAB-Power
 
#5 ·
nickasil liners?

JDGT states we have nickasil engines (sleeve liners perhaps?) in our bikes. Can anyone confirm this? Some here will recall BMW autos had a huge problem with their V-8 engines in the early to mid-ninety's. Apparently there was an issue with U.S. gasoline being incompatible with these engines and it led to catastrophic engine failures in many cases. I can't imagine history would repeat itself...BTW, not all engines displayed problems back then but many did and BMW replaced those that did.
 
#6 ·
zombiewolf said:
JDGT states we have nickasil engines (sleeve liners perhaps?) in our bikes. Can anyone confirm this? Some here will recall BMW autos had a huge problem with their V-8 engines in the early to mid-ninety's. Apparently there was an issue with U.S. gasoline being incompatible with these engines and it led to catastrophic engine failures in many cases. I can't imagine history would repeat itself...BTW, not all engines displayed problems back then but many did and BMW replaced those that did.
Nikasil coated bores are used extensively on all sorts of high performance engines from rotax engines, motocross engines, speedway bikes etc etc etc. I wouldn't panic about possible poor understanding of a possible experimental material or process. It's a proven bore wear reducing process that's been done for years.

Cheers
Lenz
 
#7 ·
wellcraft said:
how many dealerships have you seen use that type of crap or how many car companies recommend you use that kind of crap????? none because if that crap really worked car companies would be using it. as a matter of fact most car companies advise against using such addatives in your engine. i would change the oil based on the manufacturers recommended interval and stay away from addatives. my 2 cent
So, what are you saying? You think the crap dealer is selling a load of crap?
 
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