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Yes.

The lever can be moved up or down. It has a range of movement of about 1 inch, give or take.

Loosen the adjustment nuts on each end and have at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting..........i had a tech tell me it was not possible.

Thanks, i'll have a go at it later
 

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Sorry man. I don't what to tell you.

I did assume the R was the same as the S. I adjusted my S shift lever as soon as I got the bike. It was way to high for me as set by the factory or dealer.

You are talking about the foot control, right?

I find it hard to believe they made a different set up for the R.

Maybe someone who has an R can comment?
 

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I guess no one owns an R on this side.



Anyway, I still say yours IS adjustable.

Look at the long vertical rod that connects the shift lever to the gear box shaft.

You should see adjustment nuts on each end. Loosen each nut and turn the shaft until the lever pivots to the desired spot. Tighten the nuts and your done.
 

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shift lever adjustable

Just looked at my R and it is DEFINATELY adjsutable, and in two points: the down rod and at the connecting rod.
 

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That's the same as on the S.

Thank you for clearing that up.

For gilbmw: Note to self. "gotta find a new tech".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks
>For gilbmw: Note to self. "gotta find a new tech".

You would be surprised to see what we have to deal with in the NE.
Downright frightening!
 

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xlr8r said:
I guess no one owns an R on this side.



Anyway, I still say yours IS adjustable.

Look at the long vertical rod that connects the shift lever to the gear box shaft.

You should see adjustment nuts on each end. Loosen each nut and turn the shaft until the lever pivots to the desired spot. Tighten the nuts and your done.

I am having the same problem after switching to a pair of race boots.
Any diagrams or pictures of how to adjust the shift lever? Perhaps from shop CD??
 

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"Alpha Squirrel" and nutcracker.
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Dude..there's two lock nuts (top and bottom) on the linkage connector rod (10mm I think) and a flat spot on the rod (8mm?) itself to hold while you loosen the nuts. Loosen them and extend or shorten the length to get the desired result. For some reason my CD doesn't show the entire shift-rod....just the bottom portion of it on the left side of the pic....you'll get the idea. Next pic shows the top of the rod..
 

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it will take you about a minute to adjust it. If a person with zero mechanical ability looked at the mechanism, it would be very obvious that it is adjustable. What the heck is wrong with the bmw tech and why is he employed? The S and the R are identical.
 

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If you really want some adjustability, buy the BMW HP rearsets that are available for the S and R. They're expensive ($900.00+) but they work great and look even better. Plus they bolt right on with no problems.
 

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K1200Sman said:
If you really want some adjustability, buy the BMW HP rearsets that are available for the S and R. They're expensive ($900.00+) but they work great and look even better. Plus they bolt right on with no problems.
Do you have a pic of your set-up?
 

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"Alpha Squirrel" and nutcracker.
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K1200Sman said:
If you really want some adjustability, buy the BMW HP rearsets that are available for the S and R. They're expensive ($900.00+) but they work great and look even better. Plus they bolt right on with no problems.
Bad part is that they're just Gilles rearsets that normally sell for about $550 for every other bike on the market. Seems BMW contracted with Gilles to market them under their name and tacked on another $400. bucks for the logo. I tried calling Gilles to see if there was a way around buying them from Beemer at their normal selling price and was told that they couldn't because of the contractual agreement. So, I'll be buying the Rizoma rearsets instead....a lot cheaper, better looking, and more adjustability.
 

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