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Discussion Starter #1
If I'm riding with my Combat Touring Boots, the shifter lever is simply too close to the toe of my boot, making for unhappy shifts loaded with false neutrals and missed shifts. If I wear my old harness boots, which aren't as thick, all is well. On my Connie, I just moved the shifter lever a notch on the shifter shaft splines and all was well. On the KRS, it looks as though there are two positions and that's it.

I've seen listings for thicker shifter lever ends, but I don't think that's what I'm after. I found one how-to that involved some serious grinding... oooooh, I think not. Has anyone seen a better solution to this issue? For that matter, who else rides with Aerostich Combat boots? What are your experiences with the shifter?
 

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Do you have your pegs in the upper or lower position?...I'm thinking the lower position will give you more clearance
 

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You say you are against some serious grinding?

That's how I fixed mine and I now get a fairly easily adjustable shifter at the toe end without having to remove the exhaust heat deflector and mess with the levers, rod adjusters or splines which don't put the rubber end exactly where you want it anyway.

Try finding out the price of the short link lever that gets modified and you'll find it won't break the bank if you want go back to a stock shifter setup for selling.



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Discussion Starter #4
The pegs are in the lower position. Worse comes to worst, I'll buy a spare shifter to feed to the Dremel, but I kinda thought this would be one of those FAQ thingies. Guess not... oh, well. :)
 

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Now there's another thing. The older K1200RS pegs sit about 20mm higher than the newer 2000 on GT pegs. I put those on my bike and they weren't as expensive as aftermarket farklies and look oem on the bike. OK you only win about 20mm lower, but it make's a difference.

If you start messing with the peg height and shifter, you will probably need to look at the brake pedal and brake light operation. That may mean swapping out the threaded brake pushrod because you have to make sure the rear brake slave cylinder can return with the spec. amount of play. You can adjust the rear brake microswitch a bit, but in my case I had to replace the pedal stop screw with longer.

Nothing is easy on these so called adjustable ergo bikes, but it's worth taking the trouble to get ergos right for your body size. Obviously you should get the peg height right for you first if that's what you want, then look at the shifter.

A lot of this IS just down to boots. When I look at boots in the shop they seem to come with different heights on the bridge where you rest your foot on the pegs. When I first got some Dainese boots a few years back they sat horribly on the BMW foot peg because they'd molded in big ribs in the boot arch which fouled on the teeth of the pegs. I liked the boots for weight and comfort, so took off a rib or two with the angle grinder (big Dremmel!)



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Discussion Starter #6
I had a closer look at the shifter linkage. As my (German) ma-in-law would say: "Donner und doria!" :yeow: Simple this is not. Time to warm up the Dremel for the shifter as not much chance I'll ditch my Combat boots - they work too well.
 

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dremel it!

i simply cut off the raised portion of the shifter with my dremel, it gave me a full 360 adjustment availability. i bought a stainless longer allen screw and and used washers for spacers. it's been flawless on my '04 kgt for over 4yrs. when i buy new boots, i simply readjust.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, in the end, you're just relying on crushing the part of the lever that meets your foot against the rest of the linkage? No lock washer in between?
 

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After searching your other posts, I see you have an 03, so that means that you already have the lower pegs. So, if you do the dremmel grinder thing, you could grind both sides in such a manner as to leave them somewhat rough or almost knurled, thus providing some friction for either each other or a crush washer.
 

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RBEmerson said:
So, in the end, you're just relying on crushing the part of the lever that meets your foot against the rest of the linkage? No lock washer in between?
I used a stainless steel crinkle washer in between and at the back behind a nut which I Loctited.

I foresaw a scenario miles from home where the link lever could have worked loose. Perhaps an overkill, but mine hasn't in over 3 years and once you set it up it should not need changing if you buy the right boots.



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Discussion Starter #11
OK, I'm feeling better about warming up the Dremel. Too bad BMW didn't see a need for multiple positions for the shifter peg. Ah, well... these things happen. :)
 

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germans

german engineering is great, but doesn't come without pride. change comes hard for them. an adjustable shifter, a choice of seats at purchase, easier access to oil changes? they just won't do it. i'd like to see some stats of lost sales from bmw seat comfort and height specs. the r series now offers a "low" seat option, but this is after many years of customer griping. they are just so damned rigid. we travelled to bavaria, and when ordering wine, the glasses have measure marks etched into the glass so as to get the EXACT amt in the glass. i love my kgt, but hope the germans don't repeat the problems of the british with their bsa, triumph, and norton fiascos. they just wouldn't change, even to go to electric start. result? they are all gone now, and japanese now dominate. are u listining, germany?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, there is a German expression: "Ordnung muss sein" - there has to be order. And, yeah, it can be a real PITA on occasion.

BTW, those marks on the glass are a mix of maintaining order and making sure everybody gets what they paid for. "Man lernt damit zu rechnen" - one learns to live with it. ;)
 

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RBEmerson said:
OK, I'm feeling better about warming up the Dremel. Too bad BMW didn't see a need for multiple positions for the shifter peg. Ah, well... these things happen. :)
Take a closer look at the shift linkage. Mine was down too low for me, but I managed to raise it by adjusting the link. Search the posts and the service manual. Somebody wrote a very good post with pictures.

Way inside on the link, you need to rotate the clip on the neck of the pivot ball, then the clip is pulled down and removed. After that, you can pull the ball from the socket and loosen the lock nut and spin the ball and add some length. Tighten the lock nut and reinstall the ball and clip. Test it before you put the clip back in. The clip is a PITA. Takes patience and a pair of hemostats.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks - I have a rough idea of what you're describing. I like that idea over grinding off bits of the linkage... only to find I've been too enthusiastic with the grinder. :yeow:
 

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i love my kgt, but hope the germans don't repeat the problems of the british with their bsa, triumph, and norton fiascos. they just wouldn't change, even to go to electric start. result? they are all gone now, and japanese now dominate. are u listining, germany?
:) :) :)
That's funny.
BMW's different way of doing things doesnt have a single thing in the world in common with the demise of the original Triumph and Norton bikes. Zippo.
Stuff like degrees of seat height adjustability and control location are things that'll never make everyone happy all the time. BMW's offer a lot more adjustability in both those areas then most Japanese bikes do anyway. My 04 offered me an adjustable seat, inexpensive and very easy bar adjustability , adjustable pegs, an adjustable shifter made even more adjustable with a free and simple modification....what other bikes do that ?
To say that obsolete design, pathetic carburetion,extremely poor quality control , terrible electronics, oil leaks everywhere right off the showroom that killed the Triumph/Norton/BSA companies had a thing in common with control ergonomic adjustability is wildly inaccurate. :) .
Hey, look at Harley.With the exception of the big tourers they obsess on low seat heights to attract short people, which clearly works for them.
Some have size issues. Some don't. :D Doug
 

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dobent4 said:
:) :) :)
That's funny.:D Doug
+1 :clap:

However I do think they were playing hookie the day that KISS theory was taught.
 

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I futz'd with mine extensively afer I got my Combat Tour Boots as well. You will come to the realization that the grinder IS the only way. I figured out where I really wanted mine and then ground in ridges/teeth that would help keep things in place. Then with the two big "lugs" I used some JB Weld to make a wedge. 35k miles later still works fine.
 

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You should see the size of the grinder & blade I used just a few days ago to "fix" that shifter..... :teeth But I did finish it off with a file. :thumb:
 
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