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Discussion Starter #1
The side stand on the 85 K100 is getting harder to put down. I figure it is time to lube it. What should I use...regular grease, white lithium, something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FlyingDuck said:
I usually use "waterproof" marine trailer axle grease for the side and center stands but any grease is better than none.
Thanks. I`ll pick some up. Is this something an auto parts store would carry or do I need to look at a boat place?
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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97tiger885 said:
Thanks. I`ll pick some up. Is this something an auto parts store would carry or do I need to look at a boat place?
Not sure but I'd guess an auto parts store might have it.. I was just wandering around in a local mom & pop hardware store and stumbled across it. Figured it would do the trick for the side and center stands.
 

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Amsoil Synthetic water-resistant grease. That's what I bought at the commercial fishermen supply store. 3-pack of the small cartridges that's about $15.00.

There is probably a repleacable bushing/bearing in there, they do get worn out and so do the bolt/shaft then the crud mixes with the grease or corrosion gets in. Stiffens them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
H96669 said:
Amsoil Synthetic water-resistant grease. That's what I bought at the commercial fishermen supply store. 3-pack of the small cartridges that's about $15.00.

There is probably a repleacable bushing/bearing in there, they do get worn out and so do the bolt/shaft then the crud mixes with the grease or corrosion gets in. Stiffens them up.
Thanks for the info. Temps here in PA are miserable. I‘ll take a closer look when we get back to 50 F.

Marine grease seems readily available. I got a 14oz store brand tube of synthetic water-resistant grease at Advance Auto. Folks on a boat site say Wal-Mart carries it. Major argument is whether to buy the Johnson Evinrude grease at double the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TimTyler said:
This $6 grease gun fits the center stand greasing holes on my K75 perfectly.

Good to know. Thanks. Been having a shop do the maintenance lubing, so I was wondering if the centerstand had an axle mounting bolt inside a tube with grease nipples\access holes of some sort. I need to look at that.
 

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Look at the parts fiche....Two bolts/bushings and maybe O-rings to seal the bushings. Don't let that wear out, may "ovalize" the holes in the centerstand and then the stand won't work too well.

Much easier removing the whole assembly from the bike to work on it. Cheap pair of automotive "brake pliers" works well to reinstall the springs and even removing them in some cases.

Like those:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-11260-Double-Spring-Pliers/dp/B0009OR94C
 

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Discussion Starter #10
H96669 said:
Look at the parts fiche....Two bolts/bushings and maybe O-rings to seal the bushings. Don't let that wear out, may "ovalize" the holes in the centerstand and then the stand won't work too well.

Much easier removing the whole assembly from the bike to work on it. Cheap pair of automotive "brake pliers" works well to reinstall the springs and even removing them in some cases.

Like those:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-11260-Double-Spring-Pliers/dp/B0009OR94C
That is the next job. Then carb syncing.

The sidestand has been removed, grease applied to the bolt (!?%$#@?) and on the mounting tab. This is a 15 minute job if you do it regularly; 65 minutes of torture if you need to figure it out. Some of that is due to the mechanism which ties the clutch handle to the side stand.

One special bolt holds the sidestand to the mounting tab.



If you disable the sidestand\clutch mechanism, any bolt would do.
 

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Not "any bolt"....I am sure it is Hi-grade. Probably a 10.9. Just found one of them in my stash, will look at the markings when I clear the shop. :)

That goes for all the other bolts on the stand. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
H96669 said:
Not "any bolt"....I am sure it is Hi-grade. Probably a 10.9. Just found one of them in my stash, will look at the markings when I clear the shop. :)

That goes for all the other bolts on the stand. :)
Let me rephrase that. If you disable the sidestand safety mechanism, then you dont need a bolt that has a thinner unthreaded tip which serves as the pivot for the clutch handle\sidestand retraction mechanism. Any fully threaded hex bolt of correct size that meets the appropiate quality standard will do. I didnt realize the SAE had different grading systems for English (J429) and for metric (J1199). In this case, perhaps metric 10.9 which is a close equivalent to class 8. And it may not need to be fully threaded. I didnt look closely enough, but the frame tab and botton mounting tab of the stand itself might not be threaded.
 
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