Matt
Sorry,I don't have a wiring diagram for you, but you are right on with the way it works.
Bruce C
Sorry,I don't have a wiring diagram for you, but you are right on with the way it works.
Bruce C
side stand switch...
Does anyone have the picture of the wiring for the sidestand stand switch? It seems the previous owner of my bike disabled it. I can ride off with the sidestand down, which I have to believe is incorrect. I would think you can have the stand down in neutral but when you are in gear it will cut the motor?? Please clarify this for me.
Thanks.
Matt
Thanks.
Matt
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Stand switch
Not got the hang of posting yet! second try:
Early pre 2000: 3 wires on stand switch, Brown/violet to a connection point junction, then neutral safety switch,neutral light and diode from starter relay. Brown wire to clutch switch and battery negative (ground). Brown/white to immobiliser relay connector (the relay coil). If you unplug the stand switch connector you should get continuity from the common pole (Brown/White) to one of the other switch connections with the plunger out (stand down). This should go open circuit and continuity to the other switch connection when the plunger is pressed in.
Your wiring colours may be different, but the principles the same. Sorry my scanner isn't connected to scan and post the circuit, but these problems to do with the safety interlocking can be a pain to fix. You will be lucky if it's just a faulty stand switch, although they can get oil, water and rubbish around them, inside too if the boot has failed.
My problem (Bike starting in gear) was caused by the small crappy microswitch in the clutch lever. The contacts are normally closed lever out and open when pulled in. Any wear in the lever pivot sets the switch to always off and your interlocks stop working - not the failsafe way you'd expect circuit interlocks to work!
Good Luck
Not got the hang of posting yet! second try:
Early pre 2000: 3 wires on stand switch, Brown/violet to a connection point junction, then neutral safety switch,neutral light and diode from starter relay. Brown wire to clutch switch and battery negative (ground). Brown/white to immobiliser relay connector (the relay coil). If you unplug the stand switch connector you should get continuity from the common pole (Brown/White) to one of the other switch connections with the plunger out (stand down). This should go open circuit and continuity to the other switch connection when the plunger is pressed in.
Your wiring colours may be different, but the principles the same. Sorry my scanner isn't connected to scan and post the circuit, but these problems to do with the safety interlocking can be a pain to fix. You will be lucky if it's just a faulty stand switch, although they can get oil, water and rubbish around them, inside too if the boot has failed.
My problem (Bike starting in gear) was caused by the small crappy microswitch in the clutch lever. The contacts are normally closed lever out and open when pulled in. Any wear in the lever pivot sets the switch to always off and your interlocks stop working - not the failsafe way you'd expect circuit interlocks to work!
Good Luck
Same situation, 1996 K1100RS?
You seem to have a good handle on the K12 sidestand switch situation. Does anyone have comparable info on the K1100RS switch?
Where is the microswitch for the sidestand located anyway? I've crawled around under the bike and haven't found it yet. Must be covered with something.
A mechanic at the dealership disabled it for me (things weren't quite so PC a decade ago, I guess) but since then I haven't been able to figure out how he did it. I remember him having a few cable ties in his hand and I always assumed that he cable tied it shut permanently, but as I said I haven't been able to locate the switch so now I wonder if he jumpered something.
Any suggestions?
You seem to have a good handle on the K12 sidestand switch situation. Does anyone have comparable info on the K1100RS switch?
Where is the microswitch for the sidestand located anyway? I've crawled around under the bike and haven't found it yet. Must be covered with something.
A mechanic at the dealership disabled it for me (things weren't quite so PC a decade ago, I guess) but since then I haven't been able to figure out how he did it. I remember him having a few cable ties in his hand and I always assumed that he cable tied it shut permanently, but as I said I haven't been able to locate the switch so now I wonder if he jumpered something.
Any suggestions?
Assuming yours hasn't been removed, Mine's on the left side of the stand assembly, usually visible by the polished pushrod sticking out and small gaitor that keeps the muck and oil out. He would probably have jumpered the wires I said are normally shorted by the switch when the stand is up. This should still leave the in-gear clutch interlock working so you can pull away at junctions with the bike in gear (but not start it in gear) BUT if you forget and left the side stand down, who knows what scramble you'd be in on the first sharp left hander. Bit like having an overgrown peg feeler! Can't imagine a genuine BMW dealer doing this, unless it was a 'get you home' fix.
When I do my service, and knowing how interactive and important this interlock is, I always do some simple checks. From memory they are:
Try to start the bike in gear, clutch out, stand up or down - nothing should happen.
With the motor running try, to move forward with the stand down - the motor should be killed as the rpm rises.
With the stand up, hold in the clutch and with the shift in any gear (stalled motor scenario) you should be able to start the motor and pull away.
Apologies if my memory left something out.
PS There is no interlock function on the centre stand, but that's obviously not a problem.
I got in a bad habit of starting my K on its stand before mounting, so when I had the bike leap forward momentarily (if left in gear) I knew this interlock stuff was important and had to be sorted.
Ride safe - VOX
When I do my service, and knowing how interactive and important this interlock is, I always do some simple checks. From memory they are:
Try to start the bike in gear, clutch out, stand up or down - nothing should happen.
With the motor running try, to move forward with the stand down - the motor should be killed as the rpm rises.
With the stand up, hold in the clutch and with the shift in any gear (stalled motor scenario) you should be able to start the motor and pull away.
Apologies if my memory left something out.
PS There is no interlock function on the centre stand, but that's obviously not a problem.
I got in a bad habit of starting my K on its stand before mounting, so when I had the bike leap forward momentarily (if left in gear) I knew this interlock stuff was important and had to be sorted.
Ride safe - VOX
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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