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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so the newer style tensioner is old news by now, so if ya haven't yet its time to get that done, both old and new are hydrolic but the new has holes in the mounting plate and the cap that bolts where the old plate did acts as a reservior. The deal with the "chaintooth jump guard", is pretty simple, remove clutch/crankend cover and it snaps into place over the existing guard casted into the case then held in place with the cover, adding additional protection to keep the chain from skipping a tooth should something cause it to. I should have done all of this myself, but the other day on the phone with the dealer this was new as of last month and the service bulletin was not all that clear as to what held the guard in place so I opted to pay and watch this time, education comes with a tuition price and this one was about two and a half hrs. shop time on the first go, but its only about an hour and a half job, this guy is a clean freak, after finishing he was back there with a can of cleaner in one hand and a fresh micro-fiber cloth in the other removeing any trace he'd been there. They did it on saturday, a good job while I waited so I paid cash and thanked them. The parts, gastet, tensioner kit, guard and one time screws etc. run about two bills plus labor, 400 dallars for the peace of mind that I've done all that can be to this point to prevent cam chain/related failures.
 

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It's the same part for both 12 and 13's, and no it's not on the 13's either as far as I know. It MAY BE on the newest 13's sitting around but I don't think so. It's for all the K44 engines.

While this is a good addition to one of the issues affecting these engine designs, it doesn't provide a guaranteed solution to the top end flying apart. That would require a complete redesign of the flange / cam sprocket. But it's a $25 dollar part and well worth installing. You will need to remove the clutch and replace the bolts and oil so figure on $100 -150 bucks or so to do it yourself.

There's good info here: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23200&page=1&pp=10

Part # is 11318526932



It's # 17 in that view.

There was some talk of the part not being released in the US so this is great verification that it has been. Thanks Krunch! :thumb:
 

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Sure, now you post all this, including pics and part numbers, when I needed this info this morning. :D

Just picked up a K13GT with an 02/09 build date, so this part will go on at the next oil change.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Krunch said:
....The parts, gasket, tensioner kit, guard and one time screws etc. run about two bills plus labor, 400 dollars for the peace of mind that I've done all that can be to this point to prevent cam chain/related failures.
So I gather if you do it yourself and have the newest oil tensioner already installed, then all you need are the case cover screws (I wonder about that too?), the case cover gasket, and the cam chain gizmo?

Any reason to pull the valve cover itself or is all this stuff done from the right side?

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added:
So this is what I come up with if you DIY.

11147727974 GASKET 1 @ $25.43 (per Krunch cost)
11137676132 ISA SCREW - M6X25 17 @ $1.80 ea. ($30.60)
11147678478 ISA SCREW - M6X20 3 @ $2.00 ea. ($6.00)
11318526932 Chain tooth jump guard 1 @ $26.33

Total Parts $88.36 (in USA)


Mack
 

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Mack, I read a couple of threads on this over at the i-bmw forum. No valve cover removal needed. But what I'm not clear on is how the damn thing actually attaches. Assuming it must bolt on some how. The dealers are just getting this info. As usual we tend to notify our dealers and techs of anything new. :wtf:

And yes, next oil change too.

Here's a good thread: http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=32262&highlight=chain+tooth+jump+guard
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Robert_W said:
It's the same part for both 12 and 13's, and no it's not on the 13's either as far as I know. It MAY BE on the newest 13's sitting around but I don't think so. It's for all the K44 engines.

While this is a good addition to one of the issues affecting these engine designs, it doesn't provide a guaranteed solution to the top end flying apart. That would require a complete redesign of the flange / cam sprocket. But it's a $25 dollar part and well worth installing. You will need to remove the clutch and replace the bolts and oil so figure on $100 -150 bucks or so to do it yourself.

There's good info here: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23200&page=1&pp=10

Part # is 11318526932



It's # 17 in that view.

There was some talk of the part not being released in the US so this is great verification that it has been. Thanks Krunch! :thumb:
Be carefull with your words Robert, removal of the clutch is not necessary, just the cover, and there wasen't enough oil lost to need to add any let alone a complete change. Keep in mind that I stood there and watched a qualified tech so I'am passing on the for real deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dealer

RODCAYLOR said:
Krunch,

What dealer did the job for you?

Thanks, Rodney
Performance Plus, memphis TN. Marvin is the service writer/qualified tech, Tracy Williams is the go to man in the shop. 06' GT 48,000 As a welder in a machine shop I also work with tools for a liveing and could see that he treats each machine like its his as I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
GMack said:
So I gather if you do it yourself and have the newest oil tensioner already installed, then all you need are the case cover screws (I wonder about that too?), the case cover gasket, and the cam chain gizmo?

Any reason to pull the valve cover itself or is all this stuff done from the right side?

___________________________________________________
added:
So this is what I come up with if you DIY.

11147727974 GASKET 1 @ $25.43 (per Krunch cost)
11137676132 ISA SCREW - M6X25 17 @ $1.80 ea. ($30.60)
11147678478 ISA SCREW - M6X20 3 @ $2.00 ea. ($6.00)
11318526932 Chain tooth jump guard 1 @ $26.33

Total Parts $88.36 (in USA)


Mack
The case cover screws are an aluminum alloy and only able to be torqued one time, so they say, don't forget the gasket, and especially check the oilpump chain slack, if your bike has never been opened up before, there will be too much slack in this chain but adjusting the guide takes care of that.This was done when I had the clutch basket spwapped under warranty, and found to be still good this time around. I ordered the chain to have on hand this time just in case but it was not necessary. They were nice enough to restock it for me so I did not have to pay the 40 dallars extra.According to my reciept the above looks right. All that has to come off are the fairing panel the insulation piece and the clutch cover, or thats what I saw anyway, I stuck my head back there every thirty minutes or so and was fortunate that this guy likes the customer involvment and we had a good conversation afterwards. He stated that so far those oilpump chains only need the slack adjustment once, fo far anyway and he'd been into about a dozen of these for clutch work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Meese said:
Sure, now you post all this, including pics and part numbers, when I needed this info this morning. :D

Just picked up a K13GT with an 02/09 build date, so this part will go on at the next oil change.

Thanks for the info.
Keep us up to date if you have any electrical issues, I've talked to a couple of fellas at rallies complaining of intermitant headlight/cruise function on the 13. How many of us would it take to convince BMW to start picking up the bill for these things?
 

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Krunch yes, I stand corrected....sorry, only the clutch cover. For me the oil change is just a good idea when ever there is work done inside the thing. Cheap insurance I guess.

Good call on the oil pump chain too. Mine was done the last time in there and it's now as tight as it can get. Was told that I will probably have to change out the chain in 15 or 20k. Maybe the pump too. But that was from a numb nut tech who's not exactly on my high regard list. So maybe it's a tighten once deal? Hmmm....

But do tell us on this chain guard thingy....how does this it attach? Does it just bolt directly onto the crank? Or are the a couple of smaller bolts on the side? It's not clear from the diagrams and I just don't remember the inside enough as it's been months since I've seen in there.

This is a pic from the HOW from a guy that changed out his oil pump sprocket and it shows the clutch cover removed. (thanks Jeff) Looks to be a spot where this chain jump guard would bolt on just to the left of the sprocket. But I don't know if that's tapped or used for something else.



Full link here: https://picasaweb.google.com/KGTpilot/K1200GTOilPumpSprocketReplacement#

Well....it's getting warm enough to work in the garage again so I'm going to have to order this thing and find out!
 

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newGT said:
was this a recall or is it covered under warranty?
No word. I had all my updates (that shock link thing replaced and the center-stand check) done two weeks ago and this thing was unmentioned when they went through the BMW VIN check for recalls and stuff.

Time will tell, but I would have expected someone on the Euro sites to have found out one way or the other on the warranty bit since the part first showed over there as a viable part number. Nothing that I have heard of yet from my dealer. That piece over there may have been changed one time since the intro if this new one snaps in or is held in place via the cover. I think the original cost was $8 in Europe and now it shot up to ~$27. :dunno:

Aside, who was the vendor who had those Torx case cover screws in stainless rather than the BMW aluminum ones? Aluminum into aluminum just galls me.


Mack
 

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Went by dealer. They were clueless about the chain guard thing. They looked it up and turns out it is only $6.93. Then add the $27 for the gasket and those 20 screws are about $2 each so roughly $80 in parts. They didn't carry that gasket nor the bolts either. All special order.

What I'd like to know if this will be some recall thing? No sense spending $80, less labor, for something that may show up as free along with the oil and maybe a filter too. :confused:

I did find a source for some stainless bolts for the side cover (Pro-Bolt USA.com) and they come to about $80 fo 20. If you want titanium ones (even in colors) shell out $140 for 20. Wunderlich has a kit for the K's at $199 for stainless screws/bolts, but it looks like it is for the fairings only.


Mack
 

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GMack said:
What I'd like to know if this will be some recall thing?
I wouldn't hold my breath. Outright safety-related items (such as brake lines or suspension parts as we've seen so far) tend to get a lot more attention than engine-related issues. And since this involves internal engine work it would be a pretty expensive recall program, plus we don't know if the actual failure rate is really that high (meaning high enough to justify a recall). My guess is that this won't end as a full-blown recall unless BMW thinks that they really, really, really have to do it, and I haven't seen any evidence of them looking at it that way so far. I'd like to be proven wrong, but...
 

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Yeah...totally agree. I'd be shocked if they ever made it a recall item. If for no other reason than it would mean them admitting to yet another flaw that could potentially open up a huge can of worms. They're just hoping that all of the problem machines slowly fade away. And time is now on their side so to speak.
 

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smiller said:
I wouldn't hold my breath. Outright safety-related items (such as brake lines or suspension parts as we've seen so far) tend to get a lot more attention than engine-related issues. And since this involves internal engine work it would be a pretty expensive recall program, plus we don't know if the actual failure rate is really that high (meaning high enough to justify a recall). My guess is that this won't end as a full-blown recall unless BMW thinks that they really, really, really have to do it, and I haven't seen any evidence of them looking at it that way so far. I'd like to be proven wrong, but...
Let's do the math.

Assume* it costs $4,000 to fix a broken engine where the cam chain skipped. Assume it costs $40 in parts and $160 in labor (at dealer discounted prices to BMW NA) to do the repair, a total of $200 each.

If fewer than one in twenty motorcycles has a cam chain skip while under warranty, then it pays not to fix them prophylactically.

* Note: All assumed costs are merely guesses on my part. I really have no idea, but I hope I am in the ballpark.
 

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That's also assuming that BMW picks up the tab for that $4,000 . . .
 

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