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kbikeinbc said:
...I have been following this 4 a bit, then took a look at a new K1300Gt. Anybody know if the bearing/bushing fix on the shifter of a new 1300 will fit a 1200? :dunno:
Looks like the same part to me, and if its the same, it seems to be a lot simpler to order the new parts from the BMW stealer and just bolt it on...

...any thoughts anyone??? :popcorn:

kbikeinbc
07 crystal grey met Gt
Since the 1200 shift arm is around $125 without the bushing, bearings, washers, etc. The 1300 shifter with the bearings is probably closer to $150 U.S. Canadian, maybe $200?

The 4-5 bearings and washers look better, eh?


Mack
 

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kbikeinbc said:
...I have been following this 4 a bit, then took a look at a new K1300Gt. Anybody know if the bearing/bushing fix on the shifter of a new 1300 will fit a 1200? :dunno:
I don't about the GT but can say that the 1300S shifter does fit on the 1200S but you need to change out the footpeg bracket too. I have tried it (when my wife wasn't watching :) ) and it made a huge difference, maybe even more so than the original bearing mod.
 

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GMack said:
Since the 1200 shift arm is around $125 without the bushing, bearings, washers, etc. The 1300 shifter with the bearings is probably closer to $150 U.S. Canadian, maybe $200?
Yeah, exactly. Why turn a $15-$20 mod into a $150-$200 mod? Since the 1200 shifter is solid as a rock after the bearing installation I don't see how using the 1300 parts would return you anything at all for the extra money...
 

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sloppy shifter.......

Yup...kind of what I was thinking..no doubt the $$$ will be more for the arm/bushings etc from the dealer, but what I was getting at was that if the arm is the same, and it sure looks like it, is a 1300 bushing and or bearing insert available to slide into the 1200 arm.
I searched the Max BMW parts fische but I can't find any listing for parts for the 1300.

....makes ya wonder though huh? :popcorn:

kbikeinbc
 

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kbikeinbc said:
Yup...kind of what I was thinking..no doubt the $$$ will be more for the arm/bushings etc from the dealer, but what I was getting at was that if the arm is the same, and it sure looks like it, is a 1300 bushing and or bearing insert available to slide into the 1200 arm.
I searched the Max BMW parts fische but I can't find any listing for parts for the 1300.

....makes ya wonder though huh? :popcorn:

kbikeinbc
Looking at this, it still looks cheaper to go the bearing and washer route.
K1300GT Shift Arm

At $20 for one bearing sort of messes up the theory, plus it appears the 1300 has snap rings.

Mack
 

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kbikeinbc said:
but what I was getting at was that if the arm is the same, and it sure looks like it,
It didn't look like that to me, the bore in the shifter arm appeared to me to be larger on the 1300. But that was just from memory as I wasn't able to do a side-by-side comparison with a 1200, so I may be incorrect...
 

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I had the guys at South Sound BMW look up and compare the shifter parts for me before I did the mod last week. The computer says that it is the same shift lever, but the part guys said that BMW is sneaky sometimes and there can be minor differences. As for the new internal bearing and support pieces the price is not bad about $30 bucks complete just for the internals. Getting them is the next problem, they showed on their computer that the only spares are in Germany, none in the US yet.
 

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Emilynator said:
I had the guys at South Sound BMW look up and compare the shifter parts for me before I did the mod last week. The computer says that it is the same shift lever, but the part guys said that BMW is sneaky sometimes and there can be minor differences. As for the new internal bearing and support pieces the price is not bad about $30 bucks complete just for the internals. Getting them is the next problem, they showed on their computer that the only spares are in Germany, none in the US yet.
K1300GT Shift Lever #23417716697 $176.58 (From the OEM parts link above on the K1300GT)
K1200GT Shift Lever #23417691039 $121.06 (From Max BMW online fiche)

This isn't rocket science, but how can a dealer come up saying "They are the same shift lever/part number?"

The 1300 Shift Lever has two snap rings to hold the two bearings in place. The 1200 doesn't. The difference doesn't look minor to me. :confused:

SS BMW gets an IBA DNF from me. :wtf:


Mack
 

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Well

Jesus Crist, it could not be very much of a problem to fix the shifter mechanism at all the points of exesive play , even if you made the parts yourself, why does BMW owners have to put up with this kind of agrevation? joesflashdog why? ignition switch, clutch, trans, rear, and to be replaced with what broke? WHY? how much was that bike sold for ? what does it do? what did it do? anyone for a kaw,,, or zukee? joe.
 

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iflybricks said:
These bearings are not pressed in. It's a good fit, almost perfect, though the possibility still exists for the entire assembly to rotate. The outer shell of the bearing rotating in the shifter hole - not good. Don't want that. Want the bearings to do the work. By loc-tit'ing the outer surface of the bearing you stick in place. Now, the only movement possible is the rotation of the bearing.

Makes sense to me at least! hope this helps
I was also thinking about not using loctite. It seems that if the outside of the bearing is wanting to turn that the inside of the bearing must be hanging up, which is what I'm concerned with if I get too much loctite in there and it flows into the bearing. On the other hand it seems like there would be a concern with having the outside of the bearing turning and causing wear on the shifter wall.

Have just put it together for a test fit on the bike with no loctite and am trying to decide if I'm going to pull it back off and loctite it or not. Am also wondering how hard those bearing will be to get out once loctited in if they ever need to be replaced.
 

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You'll probably sell the bike before the "Do I lock-tight or not?" becomes an issue.

I did the red stuff. Blue might work too. But then my fuel pump flange QD leaked gas all over that area and got flooded so who knows what grease or lock-tight is still in there or not?

Just do whatever so the thing isn't as sloppy in the wiggle department and try it out.


Mack
 

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Went ahead and pulled it back off the bike and instead of loctite I decided to pack the assembly with white lithium grease and give it a whirl. It's one slick moving lever! Nice mod, thanks for the tip. :2beers:
 

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If you did not use Lock-Tite or something similar to hold the bearings to the shifter couldn't the shifter over repeated cycles slip or move side to side off some of the bearings?
 

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The bearings are free to move inside the shifter housing but once the washers are installed, and everything is bolted back onto the bike, the whole assembly is pretty much locked in to place. There is no side to side movement right now and I'm thinking this probably won't change much if any over time. Everything is working very smooth right now, if it changes or fails (which I doubt will happen) I'll post and let others know.
 

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Emilynator said:
If you did not use Lock-Tite or something similar to hold the bearings to the shifter couldn't the shifter over repeated cycles slip or move side to side off some of the bearings?
Yes, that's exactly what happened to me while crossing Arkansas or Tennessee or someplace. Reached down for the shifter with my toe and there was nothing. Pulled over and found it had slipped off the end and was just hanging there. Some tape fixed it in place on the side of the road, then a few states later at a friend's house I drilled and tapped the shifter and put in a set screw. A properly sized washer on the outside would have solved that problem.

Also note that I've broken off two shifter bolts in the last six weeks, both at quite inopportune times. Note that's roughly 20K miles, but still. Clearly there's something not quite right in my setup so I'll have to revisit it. It's kind of a curse being an engineer . . . :)
 

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Meese said:
Yes, that's exactly what happened to me while crossing Arkansas or Tennessee or someplace. Reached down for the shifter with my toe and there was nothing. Pulled over and found it had slipped off the end and was just hanging there. Some tape fixed it in place on the side of the road, then a few states later at a friend's house I drilled and tapped the shifter and put in a set screw. A properly sized washer on the outside would have solved that problem.

Also note that I've broken off two shifter bolts in the last six weeks, both at quite inopportune times. Note that's roughly 20K miles, but still. Clearly there's something not quite right in my setup so I'll have to revisit it. It's kind of a curse being an engineer . . . :)
Congrats on your excellent IB finish. Considering how many of us have done this mod, it would be helpful to know what you determine to be the cause of your repeated shifter problems. Is it the mod or something else entirely? You being our high mileage tester, please do post your findings.
 

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I tried that fix as well. Remarkable change in shifting feeling.

I found out that those Kalloy washers were easily destroyed because they were too soft and because of that also I have destroyed a bearing, sidewasher of bearing was pushed into inside of bearing.

Also when I was measuring these ball bearings, I found out that bearings inner ring was slightly narrower than our ring. This would mean that pressing 4 bearings together with tightening torque recommended by BMW (19 Nm) would load bearings sidewise more than designed. This might destroy bearings easily and shorten their lifetime. If this is really a problem, I can't quarantee. But as engineer I was thinking about how it should be made. And I made some changes. I have now two step sidewashers made of a bit harder material than Kalloy washers. And I have made a robust bushing of a good material between two bearings to replace two middle bearings. Now tightening force is not directed anymore to bearing balls but though washers, inner rings and bushing to frame. As it should be. See picture below.

I have listed this item into eBay for case that someone is interested to get complete modification set from one place. Item.no in eBay is 230400941418.

Regards
Jukka
 

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Nearby a picture of a damaged bearing. Damage was caused by too soft Kalloy washer going inside of bearing.

Regards
Jukka
 

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The bearing you posted the picture of looks different than the ones originally recommended in the posts. I had a definite blue seal on the side of mine. Could this be part of your issue?
 

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Emilynator said:
The bearing you posted the picture of looks different than the ones originally recommended in the posts. I had a definite blue seal on the side of mine. Could this be part of your issue?

Sure not. The blue one is plastic, this is steel one. But this shield plate will be destroyed regardless of material only if something touches it. Nothing should touch that part of bearing at any time. Otherwise bearing will be destroyed.

Regards
Jukka
 
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