BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner

161 - 178 of 178 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Old thread but still useful.

I had to remove the shifter to get the oil filter off (dealership sold me one that was too tall and thus couldn't remove it without some finesse). I realized how sloppy the shift lever was at that point and how worn out the parts were it pivots on.

I went to A&S's website and looked at their microfiche photos. The link to 2006-08 GT's brought up a diagram of the first gen GT, not the second. I clicked on the link for 09-10 GT's and it brought up a diagram that looked identical to the 2nd Gen so I bought the parts.

Now having seen this writeup I realize the parts I purchased will not fit my shift lever. I had to click on the link to the 2005-08 K1200 S model to see the correct diagram and parts. Dammit.

I'll be calling A&S to 1: let them know of the error in links to diagrams, and 2: return the parts I can not use. I doubt they'll send me a free 1300 shift lever, that's what I'd really like.

I'm confused as to what this mod is. Does it work initially then fall apart in less than a year? If that's the case I'll be looking for a used 1300 shift lever or just get the parts to repair the 1200, maybe several replacement parts to change once a year. I put on roughly 10,000 miles per year. There haven't been many folks that have updated their experience with this "fix" and whether or not it has worked in the long run. I see a photo of disintegrated roller bearings and wonder if that's normal, that they need to be replaced every year - more or less.

For you guys that have done this fix starting in 2009 has it lasted? What are the results going beyond the first couple of hundred miles? Does water (i.e. rain) and dirt cause them to fail quickly? Are the bearings sealed enough to where this normally lasts at least a year?

My bike turned over 65,000 miles yesterday. Still runs like a champ.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Flowbee said:
Old thread but still useful.

I'm confused as to what this mod is. Does it work initially then fall apart in less than a year? If that's the case I'll be looking for a used 1300 shift lever or just get the parts to repair the 1200, maybe several replacement parts to change once a year. I put on roughly 10,000 miles per year. There haven't been many folks that have updated their experience with this "fix" and whether or not it has worked in the long run. I see a photo of disintegrated roller bearings and wonder if that's normal, that they need to be replaced every year - more or less..
I would think if there was a multiple failure issue we would have heard about it by now. The failed bearings had to have been exposed to too much pressure on the sides I would think. That would come from torqueing the bolt too much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
moymurfs said:
I would think if there was a multiple failure issue we would have heard about it by now.
Good point. When something works folks go on about their lives. When it doesn't they get on the internet and gripe about it. Guess it works. Guess I'll be ordering roller bearings this week.

Found this online, it's a kit. Says it's made in Finland, not sure what the cost is.

http://www.kberger.net/product.php?product_id=14&back_bike=K1200GT
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
Just make sure you use some Loctite on the shifter pivot bolt.

I was coming to a stop and went to shift into first, when the shifter just fell off and dangled there on the shift rod. It was quite disconcerting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
969 Posts
My bolt eventually snapped. Of course, I was going about 60 and wanted to downshift when I realized this. I bought a longer bolt and a nut at a hardware store. Much better.

btw, I turned 74,000 miles yesterday.
 

·
IBR# 366
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
Yeah, I ended up with a longer bolt and backing nut on mine as well.

Had to sort that one out in Nowhere, Manitoba, Canada, in the middle of the IBR. :wtf:

At least they had metric hardware available . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
I bought 18 inches of grade 5 Titanium two weeks back. ill be machining my own super-duper bolt sometime soon... Will post up pics. if it all works well i'll be making extras and will post them in classifieds. Anyone interested?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi everyone. This is my first post, so let me introduce myself. I’m from Spain and I just bought a silver 2008 K1200R Sport with 18,600 miles (30,000 km). Here is a little present for those that don’t have it already:

http://nmcu.org/files/Full Control_2013.pdf

I’m very happy with the k1200, but I was not able to make consistent smooth (silent) gear shifts. When I read this post I ran to a bearing shop and I got 4 units of 8x14x4 straight away. I was concerned about loading the bearings sidewise. Using Loctite and pressing the four bearings together at 19 NM could put a load in them that they are not designed to take. So instead of making 2 units of #8 washers I made 5. And I used 3 bearings instead of 4. So I replaced one bearing (4 mm) with 3 washers (3 x 1.5 = 4.5 mm). The order is:

OEM bolt
OEM washer
1st Washer
Bearing #1
2nd Washer
Bearing #2
3rd Washer
Bearing #3
4th Washer
5th Washer
Frame

If a 6th washer was needed I would put it between the OEM washer and the first bearing.

This way the pressure of the bolt is transmitted thought the #8 washers and the inner races of the bearing and no sidewise load is put in the balls of the bearings. Also I didn’t use Loctite to glue the bearings to the bore. If the outside race of the bearings slips in the bore it’s because it is smoother than the bearing, I have no problem with that. I coated washers and everything with grease to prevent corrosion.

I put a little not permanent Loctite in the threads of the bolt. I plan on taking everything apart at the next couple of oil changes to inspect it. It takes 5 minutes.

I want to thank the author and collaborators of this thread. It makes a great difference. Now putting a little preload pressure shifting up and using a gas blip shifting down, there is no “clunk”. However, the strong clunk shifting 1st gear from neutral has not gone away.

Regards from Spain,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I ordered the bearings from the link in this article and they are way to small. 8x14 Sealed 8x14x4 is what the link sends you to. But if you pull out the plastic bearing surface in the shifter, the hole left measures 18~19 mm. the 8mm inside diameter is good. But it seems to me the outside diameter would have to be 18mm.
I'm confused.
du907
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Ok, first let me say I am new at this posting and picture thing so be patient.

What most of us 2005 to 2008 K1200GT,R, and S owners know is the shifting of the gears seems to be a little sloppy. We deal with the clunking and missed shifts, all the while, wishing we could solve this problem without having to buy 2009 model. Well, recently I was at my favorite BMW shop and was looking at a 2009 GT and S. I was poking and pulling on various parts to see what was different from my 2007 GT. I was most curious about the recent claim by BMW that they had “fixed” the sloppy shifting issue. So, I took a real close look at the shifter and noticed it was far more precise in the movement than my 07. Closer inspection reveals the shifter appears to pivot on a bearing and not the plastic bushings that mine does. As you are most aware, our K1200s have a linkage and not a direct connection to the transmission. Therefore, any play in the linkage will be greatly increased the sloppy shifting.

Well armed with this new knowledge, I pulled my shifter off, pushed out the plastic bushings and measured the bore. 14mm exactly. The bolt measures 7.5mm. I surfed around and found a bearing supplier in So Cal called “VXB Ball Bearings” and found sealed 8x14mm bearings. 10 for $19! I replaced the OEM plastic bushing with a stack of 4 bearings and the mod transformed the shifting into a smooth and precise action. I was so impressed I shared this with my K1200S buddy and he was skeptical until he rode my GT around. We then changed out his K1200S shifter too!

Follow along,

Here are the tools you need:



On the S and GT, remove the single fairing bolt (T2) located behind the shifter to allow the fairing to flex down enough to get the Torx driver on the shifter bolt (T40):



Remove the shifter bolt:



Once free, remove the linkage (10mm):



Wipe the shifter down with a rag and remove the bushings. Mine fell out but my buddy’s S required a small screw driver as a punch to push them out:



Clean out the bore with brake cleaner, MEK, or acetone. I lightly scuffed the bore with emery cloth to aid with loctite adhesion. I used Loctite brand, bearing and stud locker (green), but high strength thread locker (red) will work as well. There are very little side to side forces so this will do.

Here are the bearings I bought from VXB:





Check out their site, oh yeah, super fast delivery too!

8x14 Sealed 8x14x4 Miniature Bearing Pack of 10

You will need to take 2 #8 (I think) stainless washers and bore them out with a 5/16” drill bit. They will rest on both sides of the bearings. They have a smaller OD than the OEM washer and act to allow the free rotation of the bearing. Leave the OEM washer on the bolt.




Ok, now place the shifter in a vice, gently, so the bore is horizontal. Take the OEM shifter bolt with OEM washer, add one #8 washer and four bearings then a #8 washer. Now, lightly coat the bore and outer bearings with loctite. Very little. Slide the bearings into the bore as if you were bolting the shifter back on until the inner most bearing is at the edge of the inner bore of the shifter (side that points to the transmission). I put a nut on the bolt and finger tightened it once I had the bearings in the bore to hold the bearing pack together. Now, to speed up the setting process I uniformly heated the shifter bore area with heat gun to 180 degrees in two heat cycles. Loctite sets in one hour and fully cures in 24 hours. Since I was not in a hurry, I left it in the vice over night for my GT and two hours for my Buddy’s S. He was impatient!




This is too far:


Perfect:



After the bearings are set, simply reinstall the shifter. Torque the shifter to the OEM spec of 19nm. Now on the S we needed to have two #8 washers on the bolt between the shifter and the bracket to ensure the shifter did not rub against the bracket. You will need to adjust it for own application. On my GT only needed one.



Total cost plus CA tax and S&H was, $30 for the bearings (10pk). Another $10 for the new tube of loctite. That’s $20 per bike. Not bad.

As I stated before, please feel free to PM me for details if I did not do this well enough. Also, I live in Cen Cal and would be willing to do the mod for you. (Bring beer money!)

Vince
[/QUOTE
Is it possible to refresh the pictures?
If not thanks for the info I'll be able to figure it out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
If you haven't solved this already:
I used 4 bearings and don't have this problem.
To use the existing shoulder washers just make them shorter.
They are made of plastic, cut each to about half the width and then file to correct fit.

Shifting is much better but I also cleaned and lubed the entire assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I ordered the bearings from the link in this article and they are way to small. 8x14 Sealed 8x14x4 is what the link sends you to. But if you pull out the plastic bearing surface in the shifter, the hole left measures 18~19 mm. the 8mm inside diameter is good. But it seems to me the outside diameter would have to be 18mm.
I'm confused.
du907
Same thing with me...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Same thing with me...
Yes the original article 4 bearings and 2 spacers is vague but that's all there is to it. It works figure it out.
I don't want to take mine apart off for a picture but will if needed. I wanted to test the original upgrade 1st, it works just "find" the right washers for each end.
I'm working on a better upgrade kit.
 
161 - 178 of 178 Posts
Top