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Discussion Starter #1
Upon starting my 99 k1200 (cold), I smell a heavy smell of gas. I don't see anything leaking and all looks dry from what I can see. Bike starts and idles just fine. Once heading out, smell goes away and doesn't come back until starting it again after it has cooled down again (cold). Warm starts, smell nothing.

I did notice some exhaust smoke coming out the pipe but nothing serious, I think. I also own a Dodge Diesel that has the cummins, so use to seeing a some smoke...lol

I'm thinking this is normal but just checking.

8600 miles on the bike.

Thanks.
 

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They tend to run quite rich when cold, I know mine does and also smokes for a few minutes and smells like gas. The answer would be.....I think, they all do that! :teeth

They are easy to flood too if they don't start right away in very cold weather, I found that out last year. :(

If your bike had more milleage I'd be tempted to say replace the O2 sensor, but I did replace mine and no changes on that rich start up. What I did find however is that the throttle cable/TPS adjustment is important for the bike to warm up quick, too loose a throttle cable and it will stumble for a while until hot. :)
 

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...............What I did find however is that the throttle cable/TPS adjustment is important for the bike to warm up quick, too loose a throttle cable and it will stumble for a while until hot.

The throttle cable MUST BE LOOSE as in BMW spec. i.e free play at the twist grip.

The TPS critical adjustment is referenced when the throttle bar is against its idle stop. That reference is learned when you start the bike. You can only be sure the throttle bar is against its stop if there is free play in the cable, and on mine I hear a click when the throttle is closed and before the twist grip hits end of travel.

If you have no free play in the throttle cable, the ECU is getting the wrong reference voltages at startup. Worse still, if you take the bike to a dealer for diagnostics, they may try and sting you for a new TPS or worse than that adjust the TPS without checking the throttle bar is on the stops by first slackening off the twist grip cable slack adjuster. You/ they can also screw up if the steering is on hard lock and pulls the throttle bar off its resting stops.

There should be sufficient slack in the throttle cable that when swinging lock to lock at idle, the throttle bar stays on its mechanical resting stop and there is no change in idle rpm.



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Right after I got mine I keep smelling gas. Then I noticed the cap was not quite latched after the key was removed. I have to push down till I hear it click.
 

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voxmagna said:
...............What I did find however is that the throttle cable/TPS adjustment is important for the bike to warm up quick, too loose a throttle cable and it will stumble for a while until hot.

The throttle cable MUST BE LOOSE as in BMW spec. i.e free play at the twist grip.

The TPS critical adjustment is referenced when the throttle bar is against its idle stop. That reference is learned when you start the bike. You can only be sure the throttle bar is against its stop if there is free play in the cable, and on mine I hear a click when the throttle is closed and before the twist grip hits end of travel.

If you have no free play in the throttle cable, the ECU is getting the wrong reference voltages at startup. Worse still, if you take the bike to a dealer for diagnostics, they may try and sting you for a new TPS or worse than that adjust the TPS without checking the throttle bar is on the stops by first slackening off the twist grip cable slack adjuster. You/ they can also screw up if the steering is on hard lock and pulls the throttle bar off its resting stops.

There should be sufficient slack in the throttle cable that when swinging lock to lock at idle, the throttle bar stays on its mechanical resting stop and there is no change in idle rpm.
Certainly agreed adjusted as to specs, but as an interesting sidebar to that, I was just at the dealer today, checked all the bikes in the showroom,about 12 of them, I don't think any of them had the same throttle cable play, some were loose by about 1/2" on twisting the grip.(Like my bike when I got it :( ) I hope they readjust them before delivering the bikes......otherwise that makes for some pretty abrupt and jerky accelleration/decellerations.... :( But all the Ducatis and Triumphs had nicely adjusted cables..... :wtf:

The reason I know about this is shortly after getting my first K bike I saw the slop in the cable and took it out without reading the manual so it was like all the other bikes I'd ever owned.

Then I started getting idle problems, low gas mileage and sooting on the muffler spout. Took it in for 1/2 hour diags and stood there watching the computer. Up comes a bar display for the TPS adjustment and mine was showing in the red at idle.

That's your problem says the stealer - new TPS at mega bucks, or out of adjustment. Thinking quickly about what I'd done recently on the bike, I slackened off the throttle cable and watched the TPS voltage settle back in the green. Now don't you think the tech. would have checked that first?

Here's the BMW spec. for my KRS:

Preset Throttle play with engine cold to 1.5mm (0.06 in)
Warm the engine until the radiator fan starts to run and adjust the throttle play to 0.5mm (0.02 in)


They don't say anything about rocking the steering lock to lock, so I would regard those free play figures as absolute minimum and allow for play at the end of each lock. Depending on how well the throttle cable is routed under the tank, it has a habit of moving with the steering. Even those spec. figures translate to more angular rock on the twist grip than you might expect.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I don't ride every day but did this morning and it smelled a lot better and hardly any smoke. But as I think of it, it was around 40* and very foggy the day I started it and saw a fair amount of smoke. So I think it is just a cold morning blues.

What I like about this forum other then the great people on here is that during any type of search, it will also list 'Similar Items' below and read a few things about quick disconnects and such. So I checked that and do not see anything loose or cracked so going to write this off as 'NORMAL'.

Thanks.
 

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H96669 said:
Certainly agreed adjusted as to specs, but as an interesting sidebar to that, I was just at the dealer today, checked all the bikes in the showroom,about 12 of them, I don't think any of them had the same throttle cable play, some were loose by about 1/2" on twisting the grip.(Like my bike when I got it :( ) I hope they readjust them before delivering the bikes......otherwise that makes for some pretty abrupt and jerky accelleration/decellerations.... :( But all the Ducatis and Triumphs had nicely adjusted cables..... :wtf:

The reason I know about this is shortly after getting my first K bike I saw the slop in the cable and took it out without reading the manual so it was like all the other bikes I'd ever owned.

Then I started getting idle problems, low gas mileage and sooting on the muffler spout. Took it in for 1/2 hour diags and stood there watching the computer. Up comes a bar display for the TPS adjustment and mine was showing in the red at idle.

That's your problem says the stealer - new TPS at mega bucks, or out of adjustment. Thinking quickly about what I'd done recently on the bike, I slackened off the throttle cable and watched the TPS voltage settle back in the green. Now don't you think the tech. would have checked that first?

Here's the BMW spec. for my KRS:

Preset Throttle play with engine cold to 1.5mm (0.06 in)
Warm the engine until the radiator fan starts to run and adjust the throttle play to 0.5mm (0.02 in)


They don't say anything about rocking the steering lock to lock, so I would regard those free play figures as absolute minimum and allow for play at the end of each lock. Depending on how well the throttle cable is routed under the tank, it has a habit of moving with the steering. Even those spec. figures translate to more angular rock on the twist grip than you might expect.
Vox, you edited my post! Funny :rotf: But before adjusting the cable, it took 5 minutes of warm up before my bike stopped stumbling on acceleration, now it is like 30 seconds and I can go. They all do that said the PO......yeah right! But they are fiddly to adjust especially if you have the extra cable for the cruise control.And there is that little backspringed switch too at the rail. TPS...I can hear mine click off like it should. All good! :thumb:
 

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Duh....... They give me moderator powers to help keep spam and ads for sex toys off the board, to keep you guys happy. :) I hit the edit button instead of the quote button by mistake! :(

I apologise, I don't think anything is missing.

Sounds like all is good with your bike - just wait till you have to take off or change the throttle cable, that arrangement at the rail end is really tight and fiddly to get the solder nipple out. The other prob. I didn't mention is the throttle body hose clips. If you have nice stainless worm screw type like I put on, you have to be careful to set them so they don't foul and stop the butterfly rod coming back on the stop.



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