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Discussion Starter #21
I'm inching my way to the sculpt's finish line, but always seem to find something to distract me from it. I am a screenwriter by hobby and have been working on my latest screenplay for the last few weeks, so that seems to be occupying most of my focus during this considerable downtime. Though it's no excuse for not working as much on the tail project, a filmmaker friend of mine has expressed interest in the story's concept, so it's a bit of a race to knock out the first draft for his consideration.
 

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Re: the stalling at idle, next time out try not shutting the throttle so much as you come to a halt. The mapping is pretty lean and shutting the throttle might just shut everything off that keeps the engine going. It happened to me two or three times, but I just started to keep the rpm up a tad and it has never happened again.

No idea if it helps but it's also easy to do a throttle position reset, takes a minute. Won't do any harm.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I appreciate the advice, but I've tried that and it works, barely holding idle, for maybe one light. But that's of course no real solution. Since the major stall-out a few weeks ago, my joy riding this bike has entirely evaporated because of that constant low-grade anxiety that it's about to happen again. I vaguely remember doing the TPS reset thing with the old bike (though maybe it was with another bike) and not having it make any difference, but with my original K12R the stalling happened only a handful of times while I owned it, so it never became a major issue for me.
 

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I appreciate the advice, but I've tried that and it works, barely holding idle, for maybe one light. But that's of course no real solution. Since the major stall-out a few weeks ago, my joy riding this bike has entirely evaporated because of that constant low-grade anxiety that it's about to happen again. I vaguely remember doing the TPS reset thing with the old bike (though maybe it was with another bike) and not having it make any difference, but with my original K12R the stalling happened only a handful of times while I owned it, so it never became a major issue for me.
So far I have about 500 miles with the new O2 sensor and it hasn't skipped a beat. Idle has been normal and level. Has your issues with the loss of power and stalling happened again?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So far I have about 500 miles with the new O2 sensor and it hasn't skipped a beat. Idle has been normal and level. Has your issues with the loss of power and stalling happened again?
No, but I haven't been on the bike much since that stall-out, maybe three or four times, but only for short local rides. I think I'm going to do the O2 sensor swap because that's easy enough. So you going to embark on any fiberglassing project? I sold a set of leather Vanson riding pants to a guy this weekend and he, too, had done some FG parts building. And when he said he was going to do something with his SV650, I showed him the handful of pics I had of mine. He texted the next day and said the photos inspired him to start the project that day, though I don't think he was going to do the floating-fender, just the solo-seat tail. Although I really dig the floating fender found on a lot of BMWs and a few Ducatis (I think), it really hasn't caught on with the Japanese makers. A lot of people don't like the look, but I think they look great, and anyone who has ever owned a bike with a chopped or shortened tail understands the value of some sort of splashguard back there. There's a reason stock fenders are as long as they are--the backsplash is considerable without it. Unfortunately, I just haven't figured out a way to adapt one for the K12R (or even the FZ1); otherwise, I'd have installed (or made) one long ago.
 

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Agreed, a wet road and your back is soaked! They look sharp. I removed the rear handles and made four foam plugs that I will use to come up with a sharp looking insert to block the holes. Between house and mechanical projects my work shop looks like a bomb went off and I best organize before I start anything new. Plus as soon as the weather gets nasty here that will give me an excuse to put my bike in the shed and strip it down, repair what needs to be replaced, modify the suspension and get it the way I want.
An O2 Sensor is easy to do, but keep in mind that if you do that, and it still cuts out, remember the possibility of a failing crank position sensor.
Have you ever reupholstered a bike seat??
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Agreed, a wet road and your back is soaked! They look sharp. I removed the rear handles and made four foam plugs that I will use to come up with a sharp looking insert to block the holes. Between house and mechanical projects my work shop looks like a bomb went off and I best organize before I start anything new. Plus as soon as the weather gets nasty here that will give me an excuse to put my bike in the shed and strip it down, repair what needs to be replaced, modify the suspension and get it the way I want.
An O2 Sensor is easy to do, but keep in mind that if you do that, and it still cuts out, remember the possibility of a failing crank position sensor.
Have you ever reupholstered a bike seat??
I wouldn't remember the possibility of a failing crank position sensor because I don't know enough to have even considered a failing crank position sensor. I do now though, so thanks again. But speaking of those holes left by the missing grab-handles, I made little fiberglass inserts for them on my first K12R. That was a quick afternoon project not long before I sold the bike. They turned out really nice, too. Just punched some clay into the holes from the underside, smoothed off the tops to blend with the rest of the tail piece, carefully popped the clay plugs out, cast them in plaster, then made little FG castings of the plugs. Easy-peasy. But, no, I've never upholstered (or reupholstered?) anything myself, but saw a video on YouTube and thought it looked easy enough. The trick seems to be in making a good pattern, and for that I'll just take the chopped and trimmed vinyl covering of the used OEM seat I bought for the project, and use that as a pattern for whatever material I end up buying. Or, I'll do what I've done in the past (for a Hayabusa) and have a pro do it. The only real challenge I foresee now is figuring out the best way to reconfigure the seat latching mechanism that, as you know, now runs directly out the rear of the tail. For this, I want to do something that latches from the side of the seat, ideally using the original lockset, but that's not critical to me--just something that latches the seat securely to the subframe. I'm not too worried about that and really don't need to even think about it until the end because the new latch won't have anything to do with the new tail like it does with the OEM tail. It'll only latch the actual seat this time. The tail will be bolted via the existing four threaded holes in the subframe, so the new tail will not come off when the seat is removed.
 
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