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Discussion Starter #1
Is there anyone that has done a write up on changing out the spark plugs?
Is it a tough job on this bike or just time consuming?
I have kinda heard that you have to drain the coolant and have a special tool for the coil packs, is this true?
Thanks
Kevin
 

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Personally, I wouldn't do it and I'd let the dealer mess with it at some valve-check interval which could be a major pain if you need to change one of those shim/ball things. You'll need a radiator evacuation system too if you do it. If you don't have the $300 GS-911 tool, you might need that to shut off the Service Warning at the valve-check interval anyway.

I paid around $700 for the 'check & plug replacement' (4 BMW plugs were like $100 of that!) at about 17,000 miles. I think Meese on here did his and broke a coil in the process with Grif. I think the BMW plugs are some long-lasting ones anyway that are probably good for 100K miles too. That's the change interval on my car now and Toyota dealer insists they will last to maybe 130,000 miles and to leave them alone. He could easily make money changing them sooner than 100K miles, but either he's honest or just lazy. Platinums maybe?


Mack
 

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As long as youse guys are on the subject. I have heard that it's very very seldom that the valves NEED adjustment, would it be totally out of the question to skip the check?
 

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BMW specs their expensive double-platinum plugs to be replaced at 24k intervals so most do it at valve check time, although neither check really needs to be done that often (other than perhaps the first one, to preserve your warranty.) Changing plugs alone (without a valve check) wouldn't be very efficient time-wise because you still need to tear it down and remove the radiator, etc. FWIW my plugs looked really good when I did my first valve check and they looked like they could have gone a lot longer.

And from what I've read it's pretty rare for a slant-K to actually need an adjustment, there are many bikes above 100k where they haven't been touched. As to skipping the check, I guess that depends on your nerve but the odds seem to be with you at least, for whatever that's worth.

BTW as an aside I tried to find an exact cross-reference for the OEM NGK plug but couldn't so I called NGK and asked where I could buy some (trying to avoid paying marked-up BMW parts prices.) Was told 'sorry, we are under contract to sell that item only to BMW.' :banghead:
 

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Another thought....If you have an extended warrenty you might also want to read if they will still provide coverage with out proof of regular recommended services....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone.
I will most likely change them out in another 20,000 km.
The dealer changed them out at 30,000km I am approaching 60,00 now. I have had a lot of issues with stalling coming off the throttle and at idle when pulling to a stop.
I was thinking maybe a bad plug.
I have all the upgrades so I do not believe it to be the airbox or programing.
I am also running the boostplug.
I was sent another boost plug to see if possibly there is something wrong with it but he doesn't think so , but said give it a try and sent me out one free, Great service!!!
oh this is 2006 with the first gen computer. the only thing not upgraded
Kevin
 

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Roady said:
Another thought....If you have an extended warrenty you might also want to read if they will still provide coverage with out proof of regular recommended services....
I have a RPM ONE extended warranty. I jumped cam chain timing. RPM ONE DENIED claim because I did not have receipts for oil and filters. I called the places I bought oil n filters and they sent me copies. RPM ONE is still denying claim because I did not have the oil changed at a commercial facility. Beware of these warranty companies (ESPECIALLY RPM ONE) and make sure you save every receipt. No aftermarket stuff.
 

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NGK makes an Iridium plug DCPR9EIX that is the equivalent of the OEM BMW plug and only cost about $9.00 each! however it is a major job to change the plugs on these bikes. the coolant vacuum system cost $3,600.00 so unless you are a dealer, not worth investing this kind of money for the system!! I bought the plugs before I knew of the magnitude of the effort involved to change them!!! I use NGK Iridium plugs in my Harley's and Moto-Guzzi's and fully expect to never having to replace them!
 

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captstevens said:
NGK makes an Iridium plug DCPR9EIX that is the equivalent of the OEM BMW plug and only cost about $9.00 each! however it is a major job to change the plugs on these bikes. the coolant vacuum system cost $3,600.00 so unless you are a dealer, not worth investing this kind of money for the system!! I bought the plugs before I knew of the magnitude of the effort involved to change them!!! I use NGK Iridium plugs in my Harley's and Moto-Guzzi's and fully expect to never having to replace them!
I don't know much about sparkplugs, but I bought the necessary vacuum fill equipment for far less than $3,600.

You can get a Mityvac MV4535 for just over $100 from Tooltopia. It is also available from other sources. To use it, you will also need an air compressor with a fairly high SCFM rating. I bought an inexpensive 2 HP, 8 Gallon, 125 PSI compressor from Harbor Freight. It was on sale for $79. The Mityvac MV4535 and the compressor have worked well together to do three drain/refills so far. I am due for another valve check soon.
 

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captstevens said:
NGK makes an Iridium plug DCPR9EIX that is the equivalent of the OEM BMW plug and only cost about $9.00 each! .....!
Good to hear about an alternative spark plug for the k12gt. I've been looking all over to find this. Can anyone second the good performance of this plug for our bike? Won't the bike tourn into a weird guyzmo if we fit ngk pluf into it?? lol
 

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captstevens said:
NGK makes an Iridium plug DCPR9EIX that is the equivalent of the OEM BMW plug and only cost about $9.00 each! however it is a major job to change the plugs on these bikes. the coolant vacuum system cost $3,600.00 so unless you are a dealer, not worth investing this kind of money for the system!! I bought the plugs before I knew of the magnitude of the effort involved to change them!!! I use NGK Iridium plugs in my Harley's and Moto-Guzzi's and fully expect to never having to replace them!
As mentioned it costs about $100 for the coolant vacuum tool, not $3600. Maybe the dealer paid $3600 for it and that's why they charge so much? ;)

BTW can you cite the info you found that states that the DCPR9EIX is the exact equivalent? When I did my search I couldn't find any hard data that cross-referenced the OEM plug. I did find various threads where someone was speculating that one alternative plug or another might be a match, but that's not the same thing.
 

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smiller said:
. .....I did find various threads where someone was speculating that one alternative plug or another might be a match, but that's not the same thing.
+1
 

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I don't know much about sparkplugs, but I bought the necessary vacuum fill equipment for far less than $3,600.

You can get a Mityvac MV4535 for just over $100 from Tooltopia. It is also available from other sources. To use it, you will also need an air compressor with a fairly high SCFM rating. I bought an inexpensive 2 HP, 8 Gallon, 125 PSI compressor from Harbor Freight. It was on sale for $79. The Mityvac MV4535 and the compressor have worked well together to do three drain/refills so far. I am due for another valve check soon.
VAC kit on E-Bay for about £30 ($35) ! I bought one, works well. found doing the plugs and refill water very straightforward. (don't forget to put the bike on the side stand when refilling!)
 

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Since all spark plugs are made with a specific heat range, some say temperature range, you can replace one spark plug with one of a matching range: Low heat and high heat. If your plug has a long insulator then it is a Low heat plug, which has a low degree of heat dispersal and actually runs hot. A high heat plug has a high degree of heat dispersal and runs cool. Hope this helps. Cheers.
 

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I agree with the folks, just changing plugs alone is way out there unless you have a specific reason suspecting a failure. Here is a link to a vacuum tool set up that will do the job, there are others out there too. Years back I bought the factory tooling along with the valve bridge removal equipment. Not cheap but seems together I was in about $800. The number of times I have used it though has saved a lot of money for me and friends with K bikes.
 
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