[cobbler]

My guess right off the bat is an O2 sensor. From my previous issues last year stay away from the NTK sensor and go with the Bosch, if in fact you go this route. My new NTK only lasted only 2 months and went bad. The selling vendor did replace it with a Bosch +$ and id not want the NTK back so I cut it open to find the rod had cracked. Not this is significant in the fact that it may work when heated and not when cold or visa versa. So with 60k on the clock I'd replace it. Especially with high idle, flat spot 0-1/4 throttle, poor fuel mileage, black exhaust tip and spark plugs....all the symptoms of a bad O2. Good luck

 

[Dutch_rider]

I've tried another O2 sensor, but it didn't do the trick. High idle had been solved by the upgraded air box.
Do you happen to know if there is a way to check the O2 sensor on continuity? Something like that. Measure resistance maybe at either of the pins? If I understand correctly, one set of pins is for the heating of the sensor and the other set is for the signal, right?

 

[alaskier]

I had that problem a few years ago and it turned out that one of the balance pipes between the throttle bodies had perished. A cheap and simple repair at the end of the day. Hope you find this reply helpful

 

[Dutch_rider]

The CAN bikes don't really have balancepipes. At idle the throttlevalves are completely shut. Neither do they have idle air screws. Or do you mean the hoses that go from the idle control module in the airbox to the cylinderhead at the inletvalves?

 

[botus]

do a compression test just to know mechanically all cyls are matched / behaving - if OK replace the TPS and see how its running.... (they have a 30k mile shelf life then go strange)

did anyone balance the throttle bodies, hot engine, throttle held open via the throttle cable at 2 to 3k RPM (after doing the valve clearances, and after the balance, reset the idle stepper motors)

did any one wipe the adaptions after loading a new engine map ?

does the K1200 need euro 98 octane fuel to run correctly (like the K1300 does), note USA numbers on octane are about 4 clicks lower for the same fuel (as you use a different grading system for octane)

 

[alaskier]

I mean the rubber pipes that run between the throttle bodies. On the K1300GT the problem was solved by my local BMW dealer. However, once the problem was solved I remembered that I had a similar problem with a Norton Commando 40,odd years ago. The Commando had two separate carburettors which were linked by a rubber pipe between the inlet manifolds. Does this explain what I meant by balance pipes?

 

[Dutch_rider]

On de K44 models, there are no rubber tubes between the throttle bodies.

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

Iirc most efi bikes have vac tubes that link together to either a diaphragm type vacuum actuator (older bikes) or a MAF sensor (newer bikes) to allow some sort of vacuum measurement to be done and adjust fuelling accordingly. These rubber tubes can perish over time and leak, leading to false vacuum readings and poor fuelling. My 03 Suzuki 1400 has these, I replaced them all and bike ran much stronger and idled better.

 

[Dutch_rider]

I know, my Gixxer 750 SRAD has a similar system. This bike seems to lack both a MAF or MAP sensor. There's only an air temperature sensor in the airbox. Quite odd when you think of it, but apparently they thought it was unnecessary.

 

[Capt howdy]

If you have access to a gs911 they can check the O2 sensors in real time

 

[Dutch_rider]

I use motoscan and already checked. Somewhere on the first page are the values that match rpm and throttlepositions.

 

[Beech]

"did anyone balance the throttle bodies, hot engine, throttle held open via the throttle cable at 2 to 3k RPM (after doing the valve clearances, and after the balance, reset the idle stepper motors)"
Not a K bike procedure. Works well on older opposed twins though.

 

[Dutch_rider]

Spent some time on the bike today, replacing the rubber grommets mounted between the throttle body and the cylinder head. What I found when I tore off the old ones, is not what I expected.

I guess it's dried up fuel? I spent quite a lot of time cleaning off the inlets on the head. With some dentist hooks and a little screwdriver, I carefully scraped off most of the stuff. It was absolutely stuck on there. With a small brass wirebrush I cleaned off the remainings.

Got the new rubbers on, but I need some hoseclamps. The ones holding the grommets to the heads were one time use unfortunately. In 2 days I'm going on holiday and cleaning the inlet ports took a long time, so it's probably gonna be 2 weeks before I'll be able to put the bike back together. To be continued...

 

[Beech]

I think those clamps are called click-it and require a special plier to remove and install. You can look it up and buy a set in Europe. They are over riding lock and a bit pesky. Once you see how they work you can do it with needle nose pliers and a right angle oring pick.

Hose Clamp Pliers Clic & Clic-R Type for Automobile Collar Pliers CV Boot Clamp Repair Tools - - Amazon.com

Hose Clamp Pliers Clic & Clic-R Type for Automobile Collar Pliers CV Boot Clamp Repair Tools - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Dutch_rider]

Those I put together without any hassle with some big pliers, but are not the ones I'm talking about. Those you can find on the throttle body side indeed, but the clamps on the side of the head are very different. They are similar to these:

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

Why not a screw type clamp like this? Reusable

https://www.bmbikes.com.au/product/hose-clamp-47mm-54mm-genuine-bmw/?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Parts&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=5785&gclid=Cj0KCQiAic6eBhCoARIsANlox87ih6yN5XOd9lOtcwTWvSqGTYJR-gfI4fx5eQuUc3_bdLDjety8sdMaApA4EALw_wcB

 

[Dutch_rider]

For sure! That's what I was thinking of. Actually found the proper size. I bought a set for the top and bottom of the grommers. No more squeezy clamps on the inlet from top to bottom 👌

 

[Beech]

Thanks for the heads up on the lower clamps.

 

[Meese]

GENUINE BMW HOSE CLAMP $7.50
Sounds about right...

If you do switch to hose clamps here, be careful where you put the screw head so it doesn't interfere with normal throttle operation as the throttle plates move through their entire range of motion.

 

[botus]

trouble with worm drive is most over tighten and damage the rubbers