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Hello guys, I had my dealer install the Stebel I bought from Pirates website. In fact, I gave the tech a copy of Messenger13's install instructions from this site.

the issue is that if I hold the horn button for more than a second or two, the CanBus shuts it down. Turn off the bike and restart, the horn will work again....but same thing, only a second or two then shut down. :(

I have a CanBus-helper unit installed for a couple of accessories I have, so can I have it re-wired there to bypass the CanBus? :confused:
 

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Another Dealer Pretending to be a BMW Mechanic

The dealer must have missed the part about the RELAY. That is the component that sends the power from the battery to the Stebel.

The OEM horn is left in the CanBus circuit and an added wire closes the RELAY to activate the Stebel. If the dealer just wired the Stebel to the CanBus circuit, it will think there is an overload and shut the circuit down.

Good Luck,

jim :boom: :boom:
 

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Installed 55 watts moto lights on the front fender mount this afternoon. I have the HID kit, so tied into the red coming from the old low beam connector for my trigger/switch to relay, works great.

Does not come on till the motor cranks and lowbeam fires. happy camper.

Gots to have that relay in there for sure!
 

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dhanson said:
Installed 55 watts moto lights on the front fender mount this afternoon. I have the HID kit, so tied into the red coming from the old low beam connector for my trigger/switch to relay, works great.

Does not come on till the motor cranks and lowbeam fires. happy camper.

Gots to have that relay in there for sure!
Do you mean there's a low beam signal accessible from an unused connector on GTs that have the HID option installed? Oh happy days! Where is it?

Thanks.
 

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If you mean the factory HID, I don't know (my bike did not have the factory HID), I installed the HID kit that Griff details in the technical section, and used the red wire that comes from the old headlight connector. That is, the kit has a plugin that goes to the original headlamp connector, I spliced into the red wire coming from that.

The part number on the fancy splice connector is: PTA 1618 It is the blue connector below the XM antenna.
 

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dhanson said:
If you mean the factory HID, I don't know (my bike did not have the factory HID), I installed the HID kit that Griff details in the technical section, and used the red wire that comes from the old headlight connector. That is, the kit has a plugin that goes to the original headlamp connector, I spliced into the red wire coming from that.

The part number on the fancy splice connector is: PTA 1618 It is the blue connector below the XM antenna.
Thanks. Pic very helpful. Do you know whose part no. that is for the splice connector?
 

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howfly said:
Thanks. Pic very helpful. Do you know whose part no. that is for the splice connector?
The cable with the inline fuse is part of the HID upgrade kit. The blue tap connector is a Posi-Tap. Check here for some examples.
 

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Meese said:
The cable with the inline fuse is part of the HID upgrade kit. The blue tap connector is a Posi-Tap. Check here for some examples.
Ken,

On another thread (on another forum), you recommended that people not use insulation displacement taps. I agree with that recommendation, having had problems with them in the past, although I have never seen the PosiTap before. Your post above seems to conflict with your earlier post. Is the PosiTap different in some way from other displacement taps, or have you softened some?

I'm trying to find a good way to get to the low-beam signal on my GT, without mucking up the wiring, and haven't found a way, yet. I was hoping that maybe someone had made up a pigtail that would go inline with the headlight connector and provide a righteously sealed tap. I've given up on the dream that BMW provided it somewhere.
 

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howfly said:
Ken,

On another thread (on another forum), you recommended that people not use insulation displacement taps. I agree with that recommendation, having had problems with them in the past, although I have never seen the PosiTap before. Your post above seems to conflict with your earlier post. Is the PosiTap different in some way from other displacement taps, or have you softened some?

I'm trying to find a good way to get to the low-beam signal on my GT, without mucking up the wiring, and haven't found a way, yet. I was hoping that maybe someone had made up a pigtail that would go inline with the headlight connector and provide a righteously sealed tap. I've given up on the dream that BMW provided it somewhere.
First off, I don't believe a Scotch lock or any other type of connector should be used on a bike. The environment is purdy harsh and years down the road they could cause a problem. Soldering is the way to go.

I hacked into the wiring once to run my Painless fuse block using the low beam as described in the Canbus 101 article. All has been good.
 

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howfly said:
On another thread (on another forum), you recommended that people not use insulation displacement taps.
I've seen too many Scotch-locks fail so I will never use them on a bike again. But the Posi-Tap looks like a much higher quality piece, so I'd be willing to use those.

As Grif said you can always solder as well, if you have the tools and skills. But a crappy solder job can also fail, and learning how to solder properly takes some practice.

Having said all that, I didn't have any Posi-Taps on hand so I did my horn install using the soldering iron. :)
 
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