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Discussion Starter #1
My new to me RS has the button to cance the turn signals sticking a bit. Its not mutch but just enough at times to stick. Does anyoen have any way to remedy this? Sometimes it doesnt stick but if it does then the tirn signal wont go on.
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Nice dirt and corrosion trap in there.....try shooting some sillycone lube from the side into the switch.....do not be shy flood it and click the switch as you are doing it ,some of the lube should make its way into the switch. Also if you take off the bottom cover for the throttle cable(only 1 screw) I think it gives you some better access to the back of the switch. :bmw:
 

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Lots, but you might want to try anything you have on hand first, Sillycone 3 in 1, WD 40, etc....just to make sure it works first. And save you a few $$$$ too for something that may not work.And put a rag under the handle, saves you wiping it out after from all over the fairing, tank,dash....!
If this does not work, you might have to replace the switch......not a fun job!
And if it works, then ride to a boat shop and look at the Marine Type Lubes they should have on hand.Most of them were tested in harsh environments and tend to stay where you apply them, unlike WD-40 which evaporates quickly.(And stinks....) :thumb:
 

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I have dismantled these switches and been able to clean them up. The last time I found a wire connected inside was badly soldered and had lifted off, but I also saw how the plastic rubbing against plastic could make them stick.

If you really want the ultimate solution to this problem it's Duponts 'Krytox' which is a Teflon based lubricant. But it's an expensive specialist product you may not easily find.

I don't like squirting stuff inside switches because it can wash away internal lubricants or stir up any dust and grime. I have sparingly applied MS4 silicone grease, but only to those plastic parts that rub.



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I wouldn't use WD40 unless you were already planning on completely disassembling the entire switch assy in the next few weeks for a thorough cleaning. WD40 is fine in the short term, but it turns sticky and will just make things worse if left in place for 3 or 4 weeks.

Personally, I've found that teflon based gun oil/grease is great for lubricating that kind of stuff, but I don't just spray & pray.

regards,
Joe
 

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Electrical cleaner and some light use of compressed air is possibly the best way to clean in there, but not all of us have the $10.00 to $15.00 can or a compressor in our shops.
I did not (empty...) when I did that maintenance job on my bike so used something similar to WD, with a bit of compressed air to clean up everything, then used a product called Ship to Shore....Extreme Pressure, Penetrant, Lubricant,Inhibitor, Dielectric,Stops & Prevents Rust, Prevents Electrolysis,Ideal for Firearms and Fishing Tackle.......! Just some of the clue words found on Quality Marine Lubricants.....! And thanks to the earlier suggestion of using Gun Lube, I had never tought of that, they are way easier to find around here than marine products.:thumb:

That's why I mentioned a ride to a Boat Shop.And if I remember well there is some Ocean access down the river from Sacramento. :confused: And some great riding roads in the Sierra Nevada. :ricky


But in that same vein, if anyone has any ideas on loosening up the High/Low Beam switch without taking it apart, I'd really like to hear them. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys. I take it I am not the only perosn that has had this? I have had 10 BMW's all with this style of switch but this is the first to stick.
 

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h96669 said:
But in that same vein, if anyone has any ideas on loosening up the High/Low Beam switch without taking it apart, I'd really like to hear them. :thumb:
I've had all the switches apart and you realise when you get inside that spraying anything is a quick fix you pick up from the internet, but taking it apart and doing a proper job will last. Personally I find the oem uses too much grease. They plaster it on the moving plastic levers, but over time it gets into all the wrong places. I do use switch lubricant/cleaner. Generally they are good solvent cleaners, but poor for lubrication with large automotive switches. The handlebar switches are pretty open to the elements, only protected from direct spray. You soon realise what damage pressure washing can do.

These switches have small peculiar shaped brass contacts inside and small springs that can jump out and be lost forever! The last one I did, I spent 1/2 hour working out how the contacts and other bits went back. Get somebody to video as you take it apart or take lots of pics. All the switches are similar, so once you've done one the others get easier.

Wifey is getting a coupe soon, so I'm getting up to speed now on Teflon lube used for roof seals. The cycle shops here sell something which is relatively cheap, but it's not pure Teflon based. It would probably be ok for plastic parts though. If anybody here works for Dupont, PM me as I need some 'samples'!



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I used to get sticky switches on my K75RT, ridden year round in a wet climate. A few shots of electrical cleaner did the trick
 

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voxmagna said:
I've had all the switches apart and you realise when you get inside that spraying anything is a quick fix you pick up from the internet, but taking it apart and doing a proper job will last. Personally I find the oem uses too much grease. They plaster it on the moving plastic levers, but over time it gets into all the wrong places. I do use switch lubricant/cleaner. Generally they are good solvent cleaners, but poor for lubrication with large automotive switches. The handlebar switches are pretty open to the elements, only protected from direct spray. You soon realise what damage pressure washing can do.

These switches have small peculiar shaped brass contacts inside and small springs that can jump out and be lost forever! The last one I did, I spent 1/2 hour working out how the contacts and other bits went back. Get somebody to video as you take it apart or take lots of pics. All the switches are similar, so once you've done one the others get easier.

Wifey is getting a coupe soon, so I'm getting up to speed now on Teflon lube used for roof seals. The cycle shops here sell something which is relatively cheap, but it's not pure Teflon based. It would probably be ok for plastic parts though. If anybody here works for Dupont, PM me as I need some 'samples'!
Well, that's what I'm afraid of........not really. But just getting at the switches is the problem. I tried to pull the cover to adjust the lever angle on the grips and could only pull them 1/4" at the most.At first I could not even move them. I managed to adjust the angle on my levers, but only because I had a ball-end Allen wrench I could work in there with, but barely. I did not insist for the switches, not wanting to damage anything......I think the wiring is clipped in there somehow and holding me up? Sure looks easy in the BMW repair manual, one screw!!!!, but I know better.......!

That's why I was afraid to recommend that to anyone.....getting at least some lube in there to prevent corrosion was the priority on my bike.
Never had any problems getting at the switches on my K100RS or my GS......I agree with the mucky grease they like to put in there, too much of it in the wrong places....!

Now roof seals......General Motors used to sell a product we called Latex in the shop, could have been pure latex, because that was well before sillycone and teflons, Came in a small bottle with an applicator, looked like latex , and sure worked good, really penetrated in the rubber and swelled it. I was thinking about that lately, I own a new GM with poor sealing around the doors, whistling noises, don't mind on my bike, hate it in the car......! I tried some "Special Seal Lubricant" someone had at home, don't know if it was sillycone or teflon based, did nothing however.....! Maybe I should go back to the old tried and true product, if still available, and stay away from them "Miracles in a Can" like my grandpa used to call them.

I have time to think about them switches, shop is too:snowlaff:

:thumb:
 
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