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Just like the title says: my cancel button does not spring back consistently. I shot some contact cleaner in there and it helped. Anyone else had this? Any tips on other lubricants?

Yes, I ride in the rain a lot.

Thanks
 

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Silicon grease works if you can keep it on the plastics and off the contacts. Best thing is probably something like the ptfe chain lube the cyclists use, but again keep it away from any electrical contacts.

I once had my switch assembly apart and afterwards the cancel switch stuck. Then I realised you have to be very careful to mate the two halves of the 'clam shell' before tightening down the screws. They are easily misaligned if somebody was too quick to tighten the screws.



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Seattle.....go the marine supply store, the one the fishermen use, I'm sure there is one or two in Seattle, they'll fix you up with some really good lubes. :thumb:
I was just at the one in Victoria last week, came out of there with quite a few interesting lubes, corrosion protectors, metals cleaners, switches, waterproof gloves....etc...etc....but it's Christmas for my bike too..... :xcheer:
 

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h96669 said:
Seattle.....go the marine supply store, the one the fishermen use, I'm sure there is one or two in Seattle, they'll fix you up with some really good lubes. :thumb:
I was just at the one in Victoria last week, came out of there with quite a few interesting lubes, corrosion protectors, metals cleaners, switches, waterproof gloves....etc...etc....but it's Christmas for my bike too..... :xcheer:

Good suggestion. Fisheries Supplies do have a lot of motorcycle stuff that's *mislabeled.* I used a pair of elbow length rubber deck gloves for year as rain gloves
 

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Sticking Cancel Button

Greetings Shiro

Same thing happened to my K1200GT, especially when ambient temperature is COLD.
I remedied the problem by first cleaning the button region with compressed air. I then used PLEDGE (yes the furniture polish) and sprayed some around the button. I then followed with the compressed air again in short bursts and light pressure to gently force the polish into the housing. While doing this, I worked the button repeatedly and my sticking button problem is GONE and has remained reliable for years.

I was NOT willing to try any lube containing petroleum distillates (attacks plastic) and my experience with silicone has been mixed when plastics are involved.

Hope this works for you.
 

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Since I posted on this, wifey has got herself a tin top convertible. It's a bit like a comfy KRS with a decent screen but slower!

These cars need their rubber seals oiled with Krytox which is a Dupont brand name for inert ptfe lubricant.

I've since discovered it's used a lot for ABS assemblies to stop squeaks and oil them. When I get some ($$'s) it will be just right for the turn signal plastic, but needs to be kept away from the contacts.



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voxmagna said:
Silicon grease works if you can keep it on the plastics and off the contacts. Best thing is probably something like the ptfe chain lube the cyclists use, but again keep it away from any electrical contacts.

I once had my switch assembly apart and afterwards the cancel switch stuck. Then I realised you have to be very careful to mate the two halves of the 'clam shell' before tightening down the screws. They are easily misaligned if somebody was too quick to tighten the screws.
This has also happened to me. If the screw closest to the turn signal cancel button was overtightened my cancel button would stick. Used to be very annoying :( but has not been a problem since. :D
 
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