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Discussion Starter #1
The key to getting the final drive all the way down is to remove the boot from the drive shaft housing, and hold the drive shaft in against the trans.
It's not nessasary to remove the rear brake caliper.
 

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how about this?

wouldn't it be simpler to just raise the front end of the bike in the air (stand straight up) if necessary to drain the oil? This seems like an awful lot of work and a lot of potential to not get everything back together just right. If I went to all of that trouble I would crack open the case and drill and tap it for a drain and fill hole/plug.

Thanks for the pics, I am sure they will come in handy some day.

Cheers.
 

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Isn't there a easy way?

Possible to put a tube in there and drain the oil that way?

What kind of oil suppose to go in there?
 

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Congratulations!

You had better luck than I did.

Questions:

1. I see you didn't move or remove your muffler. Will the tire come off the bike without messing with it? I took mine off since the BMW instructions said to.

2. I suspected the driveline may have been keeping me from breaking the union between the final and the driveshaft to swing it down fully. Did you push forward or secure the driveshaft in some form? I tried, but never succeeded. The boot broke loose at the back section and shouldn't have affected the driveline being the problem allowing separation.

3. Did you find a suitable (white) grease for the rubber boot or reinstall it with the stock stuff left on?

4. How many hours would you guesstimate the job took? Mine was close to 3 hours since I never did it before, but I'm slow...and even slower when things get stuck.

Glad the damn black plastic cover doesn't need to come off or mess with the pivot bearings. I'm also glad it can be done without removing the calipers or their sensor wire.

Seems the BMW repair manual CD/DVD is just wrong on so many counts!

Now we can argue about adding Dow Corning Gear Moly and the percentages to add. :rotf:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GMack said:
Congratulations!

You had better luck than I did.

Questions:

1. I see you didn't move or remove your muffler. Will the tire come off the bike without messing with it? I took mine off since the BMW instructions said to.

2. I suspected the driveline may have been keeping me from breaking the union between the final and the driveshaft to swing it down fully. Did you push forward or secure the driveshaft in some form? I tried, but never succeeded. The boot broke loose at the back section and shouldn't have affected the driveline being the problem allowing separation.

3. Did you find a suitable (white) grease for the rubber boot or reinstall it with the stock stuff left on?

4. How many hours would you guesstimate the job took? Mine was close to 3 hours since I never did it before, but I'm slow...and even slower when things get stuck.

Glad the damn black plastic cover doesn't need to come off or mess with the pivot bearings. I'm also glad it can be done without removing the calipers or their sensor wire.

Seems the BMW repair manual CD/DVD is just wrong on so many counts!

Now we can argue about adding Dow Corning Gear Moly and the percentages to add. :rotf:
1. I just loosen the muffler remove the tire than put the bolt back in loose to hold the muffler up.
2. Untill I got the boot off the drive shaft housing I couldn't seperate the drive shaft from the final drive either. Once I did I just pushed the drive shaft towards the trans and down it came.
3. I didn't put any grease on the boot, it's just a dust shield.
4. The next time it shouldn't take more than 1 hour.
I filled it with BMW 75-140W full syn. gear oil.
 

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what do you use to seperate the drive shaft from the final drive?
i can't get it do let go. it moves on the splines just fine but will not come off completely.
thanks...
 

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Push forward on the main shaft while rotating the housing down. It breaks free but with a little effort. Reattaching it is the same. You might have to rotate the disc brake and hub assembly to line up the splines.
 

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I asked this in another thread, but what type of stand do you guys recommend to hold the bike up in case the bike doesn't have a center stand.

Nick
 

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I don't have a centerstand either, I may ask the dealership shop, how they get the oil out.
 

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No real good answer. Why not just get the centerstand?

I don't have one either. This is how I do it. But really you should get a centerstand. If you drop your bike you are going to SOOO regret it.

I have a low floor jack. I put a piece of 3/8" plate steel thats 3"x13". Center it on the centerstand mounting brackets. I put a short piece of 2x4" under each bracket on top of the flat stock. I slowly jack up the bike holding the bike upright. This brings the entire back end up.

It's sort of a balancing act. I've done it a dozen times and so far so good. I've even picked up the front end and weighed the bike this way. (505# by the way).

I'm sure any stand that BMW sells will cost more than a centerstand. And the centerstand costs more than this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did a tire change on an "S" by strapping the bike up to the rafters in my garage.
 

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JCW thanks for the photos, I have a front and a rear stands, so I could use a similar setting as yours in order to keep it (the bike) up and removing the rear stand.

Cheers,
Nick
 

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did the final drive oil change.
also, i noticed tiny bits of material after draining into the pan.
good idea to replace periodically. ;)
 

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Now i know why there saying life time lube.....the machinist that was suppose to drill and tap for a drain didnt do his job....easier and cheaper just to say life time lube than it is to recall all those bikes and have them reworked....just a guess......can anyone check to see if there is a boss on the underside of the housing where it looks like they should have been drilled and taped? ....life time is to them is the warranty period....maybe im crazy...but hey...sounds good
 

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Does anyone know the amount of fluid you put in the final drive? Was the fluid filled through the drain hole or did you pull out the speed sensor and fill through that hole? I'm curious because it apears the speed sensor is about the same height as the fill hole so I'm wondering which way is the best way to refill the rear drive? Do you get enough oil in there if you only fill till it runs back out the drain hole?
Thanks,
Steve in KY
 
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