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Discussion Starter #1
Recently bought a 2007 K44 GT and have the hesitation/stalling issue that was remidied back in the day with an updated airbox and software update. So it would be nice if BMW fitted my bike with these parts for free but I understand the age of bike and all and just need this fixed. Issue being no dealership I contact knows anything about it and can't find information on it. I called BMW customer care and while they were nice as pie to me they say they wouldn't have that information I would need to bring it to a dealer. Every dealer says bring it in we'll diagnose the issue for you. Ok so I don't want them doing a million dollars worth of work to it just for the issue to remain because I have the ill working airbox in it. One dealer did look at my history and while the airbox was never updated I did find out they replaced the entire ABS system so there is that, at least I have that already taken care of so hopefully that won't fail anytime soon. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do?
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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These symptoms were also associated with a high idle when in hot weather. The software slows down the engine rpm drop at chopped off throttle by stopping at about 1800 rpm for a fraction of a second. The air box stuff was solved with new equipment and some have removed the idle air valve and cleaned/lubed it with some success.
New parts were used in the last half of October 2008.
Bulletin 13 003 07 (058) December 2007
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes and I will be sure to keep this thread updated because I expect even armed with this information things will not go smoothly at the dealer
 

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Ok well maybe I am wrong about things not going smoothly at the dealership. I was quoted today for Airbox replacement, software update, spark plug change, throttle body sync and fuel injector cleaning $1382.00.....
Hopefully they're not pulling the old bait and switch routine on me .....
 

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Let's start with throttle body sync. They are locked together on the linkage. So not possible to individually sync them. And you should not mess with the flow settings as they are factory "sealed". This might just be checking the opening charistics via the shop computer. Spark plug change, you need to remove the radiator which requires a vacuum system to refill (and should be carefully cleaned while off). So close, might as well check the valve clearances while the radiator is out as that is most of the work. With the air box off you can get to the injectors, a little deeper in though. The dealers just flow some cleaner through them I bet and this is a marginal cleaning method, no new inlet filters etc.. At this point you might want to talk to them about installing the hot start wire harness as the bike will be open far enough to do this. Parts are about 150$ and another hour labor. Otherwise is is 4 hours labor to just get to this point and back out.
All this work will get you to base line and should be useful for a bike new to you.
Well sorry to see so much being piled on you but these bikes do eat money. Lucky I do my own work except for things like the software up date. Too bad they are not offering the air box and software for free, my bike was done under warranty but I think some were done under good will.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did the hot start wire harness myself. I'm sure once they get my bike in they'll start recommending all of what you listed and more. Funny about the sync that was their idea not mine I'll have to check the quote to see what they're charging for that... I was entertaining the thought of just buying the airbox and doing all this myself but read on here about some breaking the coil packs trying to get at the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I ordered and received the Booster Plug. I added some fuel injector cleaner to my gas and the combination of the two all but eliminated the hesitation. I was only able to put about 20 miles on this combo but so far it has exceeded expectations. Tomorrow I will put about 200 miles on it and have a better assessment....
 

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Let's start with throttle body sync. They are locked together on the linkage. So not possible to individually sync them. And you should not mess with the flow settings as they are factory "sealed".

there is an electronic reset / calibration of the throttle body stepper motors. Buy the motoscan app and suitable adaptor. Plug it in click yes, 2 mins later all done, you end up with a happier smoother idle. I believe it moves all 4 through entire travel and sets the base position
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Can someone point out or post a link to this suitable adapter you speak of?
 

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the adaptors are a pain.. they are not all created equal - and for very little good reason they don't all work on multiple manufacturers' vehicles.
( 2 links attached the update on this site brings additional garbage to one and calls the important one google !)

Ford needs one with MS can
GM needs another
BMW another

the MX+ is perhaps the best one that does most brands although I just found even here the firmware is being fixed almost monthly to combat issues


a mate had the LX and at the time we couldn't do the TPMS coding as BMW do odd stuff to programme.... It might be right in the later firmware??? We both have the adaptor made by the guy that does the motoscan app as its one he (an now many BMW car forums) recco for playing on BMWs

The adapter specially developed by us for the MotoScan app.
  • All functions on motorcycles with K-Line are fully supported
  • All functions on motorcycles with CAN bus are fully supported
  • Is developed and manufactured by us
  • Best support also for apps like BimmerCode, BimmerLink and BTool for BMW cars
 

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I actually use a GS-911.
 

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Recently bought a 2007 K44 GT and have the hesitation/stalling issue that was remidied back in the day with an updated airbox and software update. So it would be nice if BMW fitted my bike with these parts for free but I understand the age of bike and all and just need this fixed. Issue being no dealership I contact knows anything about it and can't find information on it. I called BMW customer care and while they were nice as pie to me they say they wouldn't have that information I would need to bring it to a dealer. Every dealer says bring it in we'll diagnose the issue for you. Ok so I don't want them doing a million dollars worth of work to it just for the issue to remain because I have the ill working airbox in it. One dealer did look at my history and while the airbox was never updated I did find out they replaced the entire ABS system so there is that, at least I have that already taken care of so hopefully that won't fail anytime soon. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do?
I don't have any suggestions, but I an glad to hear about your problem, The same problems has justed started to plague me, as matter of fact my K44 is at the dealer right now here in Cali. They basically told me on a test ride by two Moto techs they didn't experience the problem. Its been over 110 degrees and and the bike stalled/lurched on me 2X on the way dealership. I had heard about the Air Box problem before but thought it wasn't issues on my since the previous onwer stated all the recalls were completed before I bought. I can't wait to hear what they say today. I thought it was all to my Clutch grinding noises and wearing clutch, BTW Youtube has some interesting insight on K1200GT Clutches problems and why they happen. No Cooling or Brake related Issues yet... Zapster2k..
 

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I changed coils and spark plugs on my 2010 K1300GT, buying the "special tool" for the job from Euromotoelectrik. The tool helps because the coils are stuck on pretty tight, but it's not necessary and I actually ended up not using it on all coils. The "special tool" actually broke an inconsequential bit off one of the coils. My long bent needle nose pliers and lifted the coil off the plug(s) more effectively. Since I had new coils in hand, I used whatever level of force was needed. The new coils got some dielectric grease inside the boot, and a little on the white insulators of the new plugs - none on the coil to plug contact surface tho'.

BE SURE! that when you put the coils back on, they are seated on the plug ALL THE WAY. DAMHIK!
 
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