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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched the forums for information about lowering a K1300GT. The only information I have found is about lowering the rider and passenger PEGS. Recently I found a German site (www.metisse.de) that offers lowering kits for many brands and models of bikes including the K1300GT.
Does any have any information about this company, their lowering kit or ramifications of lowering a K1300GT?
Thanks for the help.
 

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If you don't mind me asking, why do you want to lower it?
 

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Looked at the link, here this page:
http://www.metisse.de/lowering-kit-bmw-k-1200-gt.html

The "kit" seems to lower the rear (only, as I see it) 25mm, the lowering of the front seems to be accomplished by "readjusting" the forks. Of couse the GT has no "fork" in the common meaning of the term, not with the Duolever front suspension. It would seem like it would take a different front spring to lower the bike in front and probably a new shock as well. Normally I'd assume they want the front forks slid up higher in to the triple clamps, no triple clamps on these bikes.
Gilly
 

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Looking at the info on the Metisse website, toward the bottom they list "year of manufacture" and don't list the GT, although at the heading thay call it "Lowering kit BMW K 1200 GT 25mm", so some varying info and not sure if the S models they list are the same exact rear suspension as a GT. Pretty fair to assume it is, but you know what they say about assuming.
I tried to find out any info on lowering the front of a Duolever suspension and came up empty handed. I would worry that any attempt to change the height could mess up the geometery of the suspension. Possibly tires could be fitted that have a smaller (or is it larger) ratio, what I am trying to say is a lower profile tire.
Still curious on how you are getting along with the bike with the existing height, is it really that bad?
Gilly
 

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As Gilly said, it won't be easy to change the DuoLever setup up front.

I have friends that have had good results by having a local cobbler add 1/2" or 3/4" to the soles of their boots, and also by having the front of the seat shaved a bit thinner, giving easier reach to the ground when stopped. If you only need a little more room, you might want to explore those options.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just got my 2010 K1300GT a few months ago after riding a V Star 1100 for 6 years. The change in height is a bit unsettling. On the V Star, I could stand up and there was about 6' between my crotch and the seat. With the K1300, I can on get the balls of my feet down even when I move all the way forward on the Russell seat. Backing up is a bit scary: not very good traction for my feet and a sense the bike could go down if I make the smallest miscalculation. Just exploring to see if there were any reasonable (and safe) alternatives.
Thanks for the feedback.
 

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Double check that you are not in "2 up" mode with ESA, as putting the bike in 2 up mode will raise the rear about a 1".

I was pretty worried about it when I first got my bike as I am height challenged but now it feels normal to be on my toes at lights, or I slide off the seat to one side a little bit.

When I ride with my wife, we are in 2 up mode on the road but at first stop off the freeway we switch to 1 person mode even though she is on the back for all around town driving, just so I can touch the ground.
 

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tsweda said:
....With the K1300, I can on get the balls of my feet down even when I move all the way forward on the Russell seat. Backing up is a bit scary: not very good traction for my feet and a sense the bike could go down if I make the smallest miscalculation.
I had a Russell on my old RT. That moving forward bit was familiar as it was the first thing that struck me after I did the drive-in thing with them. However, in time I adjusted and never thought of it again and the comfort factor made up for that shortcoming. I didn't know if I still did it when I got rid of it at 100K miles either. Never did fall over either in those 100K miles.

The GT with the lower seat falls over all the time and is beyond annoying for that trait. I refuse to find out about the K1600 and the fall overs with absolutely no engine protection on that bike. I'm tired of banging up $4K in plastic bits or playing body work/painter. No so sure I want to chuck a $13K engine either. The KxxxGT CG is too high over the RT maybe, even though the seat is lower and easier for my feet to hit the ground. Go figger.

Problem with the shock lowering is it could also affect your center-stand and side-stand and maybe some major mods to those two pieces too. I'd go with the boots with heels bit.


Mack
 

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The Russell seat in the low position is about the same height if not a bit higher than the BMW standard seat in the high position. 33" seat height.

The Sargent low seat is lower than the low BMW seat in the low position. 30.75" seat height.

A 2.25" difference,

I really would like the Russell, but a 28" inseam means the Sargent.

Best I can do is about an 800 mile day on the Sargent, I'm ready to be off and it's not just because of the seat.

I'll never be a Meese. He is my hero when it comes to seat time
 

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In addition to making sure your ESA is in 1-up not 2-up, be aware of the existence of lower seats through the aftermarket and BMW, and the 2 positions of the seat, there is an adjustment under the seat for high or low, make sure it is in low. I'm sure you can get it sorted out without resorting to trying to change the suspension.
Gilly
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the feedback

Thanks for all the feedback. I really appreciate the insight and information.
 

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Metisse lowering kit installed on K1200GT 2007

Hello I have installed the lowering kit on my K. No front adjustment is required or possible. I notice no difference in handling and must say that I really like it.
 

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Lowering kit installed and tested

Finally installed my lowering kit and went out for a 2-day, 400 mile overnight trip. Just as everyone has said, the install was easy - 30 minutes tops. My trip included New England country roads (35-55 mph), stop and go traffic behind school buses, and about 30 minutes on the slab (65-75). I am not an aggressive rider and could not detect any difference in the handling of the bike. What did change was my comfort level when not moving. I can now flat-foot both feet. Backing up the bike is easy and no lower worrisome. This was the best mod I have made to date.
 

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Double check that you are not in "2 up" mode with ESA, as putting the bike in 2 up mode will raise the rear about a 1".
Thank you for this suggestion. I have my 2007 K1200GT for sale or trade on craigslist because I am sick and tired of how high it is. (I'm 5'10)

I was just about to bite on my mechanic's suggestion of a lowering link for some $400 installed that "is infinitely adjustable from stock to 3" lower".

I followed the instructions but didn't feel it move any.

I hope I feel more stable in my future rides.
 

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I have searched the forums for information about lowering a K1300GT. The only information I have found is about lowering the rider and passenger PEGS. Recently I found a German site (www.metisse.de) that offers lowering kits for many brands and models of bikes including the K1300GT.
Does any have any information about this company, their lowering kit or ramifications of lowering a K1300GT?
Thanks for the help.
Hi there. Calling on you from Brampton, ON, Canada Just joined as I have some pertinent info for you after spending the bucks and doing the research and testing. I see that there are replies going off topic, so let's get busy.
I am 5'4" with a 29" inseam and with legs apart at the usual bike straddle distance, on my K13GT at 2 1/2 feet I have a stand over height of not 29" but 27". I just had the bike delivered from British Columbia via TFX Int'l box trailer and I had to have the truck driver drive my bike into the garage, as my feet (read: work boots tippy toes!!!) do not touch the ground. Bike also has a Russell Day-Long seat setup which is very high!
First I ordered off eBay a used IRC made, adjustable lowering link which is plug and play with the K
GT
I have searched the forums for information about lowering a K1300GT. The only information I have found is about lowering the rider and passenger PEGS. Recently I found a German site (www.metisse.de) that offers lowering kits for many brands and models of bikes including the K1300GT.
Does any have any information about this company, their lowering kit or ramifications of lowering a K1300GT?
Thanks for the help.
Hi there. Calling on you from Brampton, ON, Canada. Just joined as I have pertinent info for you as I see the replies are getting off topic so let's get busy. I am 5 '4" and a 29" inseam. Straddled at feet apart 2 1/2 feet over the bike I have a 27" stand over height.

Just recently bought a 2009 K1300GT and had it delivered from British Columbia via TFX Int'l in a box trailer. I was shocked when I received it as I sat on the bike my feet (read: work boot tippy toes!) do not touch the ground; I had to have the driver drive it into my garage. --- grown man blushing ---

First I bought on eBay an IRC made adjustable lowering link for a 11-15 Kawasaki ZX10R. The bushings from the OEM alum link on the K13GT are plug and play, unit is just a bit narrower so side washers had to be added. I found that from the factory link dimension of exactly 5 inches the maximum extending of the adj link is limited to exactly 5 3/8 inches whereby the factory triangle plates begin to dig into the plastic guard shield on aft of the ESA shock. Every 1/8 inch lengthening of adjustment drops the rear of the bike 1/2 an inch up to the 3/8 which is 1 1/2 inches.
In the meantime I had also bought a new Myrtle West made adjustable link for a 07-10 Kawasaki ZX10R which is also plug and play on swapping out the OEM solid link bushings AND plug and play width into the tailing arm and frame lugs with a little sand papering. This was to be my permanent fix, all I had to do was take my Dremel tool carbide saw blade and make the centre to centre distance at 5 3/8 inches. So... I readjusted the head light down, I sat on the bike and boo hoo not low enough! OK I've got my thinking cap on lock and loaded.

The bike's FRONT ESA shock was leaking so previous 5' 10" owner changed out with a HyperPro unit and the adjustable ring is half way down the barrel. I backed off the ring so that only one inch of threads remain at the top giving me one inch of shock travel which translates to about 3 1/2 inches of Duolever travel. GOOD. Now the bike sits NOSE DOWN ughh

Then I looked at purchasing a set of $$$ LUST RACING lowering links (or equivalent three other brands) which lowers an additional ONE INCH hmmm that won't be enough...
From an online site I found an after market K1300GT lowering plate trace out with measurements. VOILA the blinking light on my thinking cap just came on!!!

The FACTORY BMW K1300GT triangle plates can be installed UP SIDE DOWN. The left plate onto the right side and vice versa. Lowers the bike three inches with the factory solid link arm.
BINGO I am truly smiling ear to ear. WOW Really gets up your confidence level when you just jump on the 700 plus pound bike and easily balance it off the OEM side stand. Centre stand is now useless. That is the for my next visit to this forum.

So final thoughts: In summary:

---I am going to sell the Russell Day-Long seat set up, and buy the factory heated black LOW version of the K1300GT seat. With a borrowed standard seat I have the balls of my work boots SOLID on the ground, I estimate with the LOW seat my heels will be about a half inch off the ground. Remember the seat WIDTH stretches everybody's legs apart on any bike.
--- headlight adjustment is back where I started
---no worries about ESA shock positioning in the trailing arm through-hole, only 1/8 inch more forward
---MANDATORY>>>>you MUST buy FOUR NEW M10 SQUEEZE NUTS<<<<<<< to be safe so that all will be good for cruising
---the determining factor for trailing arm extension is the shock. SO when the lower shock bolt is removed, support the trailing arm so as not to crush the rear brake hose and sensor wire harness.
--the three ESA heights works as normal. Nothing changed there. I can almost lift the bike onto the centre stand on TWO RIDERS/BAGGAGE setting. Still need to run the rear wheel onto a one inch board.

28266


28267
 

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Here is a source for TUV approved lowering plates. Will lower the rear by 25mm:
 

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Don't hijack the thread with a new topic, Start a new one.
 
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