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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
7 of the 8 exhaust studs came out with the nuts when I removed my exhaust. I luckily was able to get the last one out. I have replacements, but I am not sure how to secure the studs in the head - high temp Loctite? If so, what temp range? They must be a higher torque than the nuts, but haven't checked.

I can't see how never seize will prevent the nuts and studs from 'seizing' with the amount of rust on them.
 

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There were several posts on this in the old forum. Mine are all rusty and I'm not looking too hard until I need to strip something down.

I've worked on cages where the set pins were steel, BUT the exhaust nuts were copper. I've seen them in a lock version where the top couple of threads are crushed after torqueing down. Don't know if this is worth looking into. When the nut is siezed, it's always useful to know you can get the stud out of the head. Usually it's coarse thread into aluminium, fine to get the torque on the nut. I wouldn't recommend replacing a siezed stud and nut then torqueing down into the head. You don't want to be messing with Helicoil inserts.



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Vox,

I am sure I misunderstand: you do not recommend replacing a seized stud and nut? I don't plan on reinstalling them. I assume you mean do not reuse a frozen stud/nut to torque to spec into the head, and I will not. You are right, I want to avoid helicoil.
 

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Right on Velo, Before I need to do mine which look pretty rust encrusted, mainly the nuts, I'll be looking into copper nuts or even stainless with anti-sieze. Personally I'd avoid Loctite if I thought I'd need to get the studs out. If you Loctite a stud threaded into aluminium, you risk stripping the thread getting it out, since most Loctites will have broken down and clogged the the treads with the high temperature. Cheers - vox.



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I just took mine off last week (the exhaust system).
I sprayed them down with PB Blaster penetrating oil and let them sit overnight before trying anything. The nuts came off with very little effort.
The original nuts (I'm assuming original) were copper and were in excellent shape so I reused them. I still have the copper nuts that I bought at the local BMW shop just in case I needed to replace them so if any one wants them I'll send them to you.
 

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reinstalling stud

Velomaxx said:
I assume you mean do not reuse a frozen stud/nut to torque to spec into the head
Dumb question: so if you buy replacement studs and nuts, or say you are able to "unfreeze" and separate them, how do you reinstall just the stud? In other words, what tool does one use to tighten it into the head?

TIA
 

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detour said:
Dumb question: so if you buy replacement studs and nuts, or say you are able to "unfreeze" and separate them, how do you reinstall just the stud? In other words, what tool does one use to tighten it into the head?

TIA
You could double nut the stud.
 

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the question was ...

Wildbeast, the question was ...

How do you screw in and tighten the stud into the head?

And lee offered a great suggestion. (Why didn't I think of that? :eek: )
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have new ones, I'm guessing two nuts threaded against each other will permit me to install them, unless I hear differently.

Mine are so rusted there is no way they can be reused, and while not 30 cents, they are cheap enough to replace.
 

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I'm always a glutton for trying to do the fix once, so I'd either just buy the lot - nuts/studs etc or use up some A4 stainless rod, cutting the fine metric and coarse thread on either end. New threads are kinder on the cyl. head.

I get fed up taking screws out all nasty and rusty. I don't know what sort of steel BMW suppliers use, but it certainly don't contain much chromium.



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just looked at the new ones. The threads are the same on both ends of the studs, and the new nuts are copper with a locking section at the top.
 
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