[paintersteve]

I’ve got a 2002 1200rs and need to clean the throttle bodies. Is there a write up on how to remove them? There’s a lot of wires and hoses all around it and need some help in keeping it all together.

 

[andredl]

It's been a lot of years since I've had a K1200...

Disconnect the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS). #2 in below.
#5 below, the crankcase breather, is a bitch. Loosen clamp #10 on the right side of the bike and work the hose off. It would be wise to have a new assembly on hand as they deteriorate from being exposed to engine oil.
Loosen the clamps for the air box and lift it up and off the throttle bodies.
There are two cables attached, the throttle and the cruise control. The cruise control cable has a split in the middle, #3 in the second image below. Separate the cable at this point and do not try to remove it from the throttle bodies.
Loosen the clamps on the bottom of the throttle bodies and lift them up. Take off the throttle cable and anything else attached.
There it is in a nutshell.

If you clean the throttle bodies with carb cleaner the crud will flow into the TPS and get it dirty. The TPS can be removed, cleaned with contact cleaner and calibrated after you install it. There are ORings between the rubber intakes and the cylinder head that should be replaced. If there is oil on the top of the engine it probably means the cam chain cover is leaking.

 

[andredl]

TPS Calibration - from ibmwr.org, the old list.

You can clean the TPS by spraying contact cleaner into the throttle shaft opening, on the other side of the one in the picture. Just spray and turn the shaft back and forth. Let it dry.
When reassembling leave the TPS mounting screws snug but loose enough that you can twist the TPS. Put everything back together and reinstall the throttle bodies (and find a tool that will reach those mounting screws so you can tighten them later). Adjusting the TPS should be the last thing you do here.
With the TPS electrical connector attached and the ignition on measure DC voltage from pin #1 (the one on the right in this image) to ground. This means pushing the meter probe into the backside of the connector (alongside the wire) until it makes contact.
Twist the TPS on its mounting until that voltage is below 1 VDC. .700 was what I normally saw.

 

[paintersteve]

Thanks for the reply. I got the air box off with no problem thanks to you. Now I have a question about the cruise control cable. #3. I slid the dust cover and reveled the lock nut and after loosing it all the way the cable runs through it all the way to the box witch I’m assuming is the cruise control module.
So my question is how do I separate it?
Again Thank you for explaining how to remove the throttle body. Mine needs a cleaning so bad.

 

[RAC]

I would not remove any cables. Lift them off the rubber manifolds, shove some rags in the intakes, have a friend hold throttle open while you wipe the throttle bodies out with a rag and Qtips soaked with some carb cleaner and reinstall. Maybe spray them out a little with carb/throttle body cleaner with plenty of old towels in place to catch the runoff/over spray. Less you unhook the happier you will be.

 

[andredl]

Thanks for the reply. I got the air box off with no problem thanks to you. Now I have a question about the cruise control cable. #3. I slid the dust cover and reveled the lock nut and after loosing it all the way the cable runs through it all the way to the box witch I’m assuming is the cruise control module.
So my question is how do I separate it?
Again Thank you for explaining how to remove the throttle body. Mine needs a cleaning so bad.

I thought, and that's an iffy concept, the piece you are holding joined two cables.....

Try loosening the adjuster as much as possible and then removing the cable from the control box end.

Or just unbolt the control box and remove it along with the throttles. I fought with removing the cable from the bellcrank, and wound up buying a new cable.

 

[andredl]

This is what I remember

Cruise Control doesn't work. Set light is on!

I have read all the cruise control posts, but this issue is slightly different. My cruise control quit today. The set light comes on when I press the set button but it doesn't control speed. I went through the diagnostic procedure and everything checks out fine, i.e.. and all micro switches...

www.bmwlt.com

 

[andredl]

Thanks for the reply. I got the air box off with no problem thanks to you. Now I have a question about the cruise control cable. #3. I slid the dust cover and reveled the lock nut and after loosing it all the way the cable runs through it all the way to the box witch I’m assuming is the cruise control module.
So my question is how do I separate it?
Again Thank you for explaining how to remove the throttle body. Mine needs a cleaning so bad.

2nd cup of coffee
Try holding the throttles completely open with something and then pull the cable out the bottom of the piece you're holding.

 

[paintersteve]

TOTAL SUCCESS!!!

Finally got the throttle body off and cleaned it and the air box. I also cleaned and checked each of the injectors. It now starts and Idols normally and doesn’t turn off after 3-5 minutes.
Thank you all for the help.
Im now putting everything back together and I have one question. When I took the fuel tank off the vent hoses that run through the frame came out and I am not sure where they ran. If someone can take pictures or let me know how to run them, I’d appreciate it.

 

[paintersteve]

Some pictures of the throttle bodies and surrounding area. Very dirty/oily.
I also cleaned the crankcase breather tube behind the throttle bodies. No leaks in the hose or connections. Not sure where all the oil and grime came from. This bike has over 198,000 miles and the engine in it now has over 74,000 miles on it.
Going to put all the plastic’s back on tomorrow and go for a first ride around the block. I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

[andredl]

Look what I found, a youtube video!

This is a nice view of where it runs. There's a fitting on the bottom right corner of the airbox that it connect to.

 

[riderx]

I am doing the exact same repair on my 2002 K12RS, I just finished cleaning all the oil and grit on top of the engine and behind the ignition coil back to the catalytic converter and to the rear rim, there was pretty much an oily mess on just about the whole lower back half of the bike, what a pain in the ass.

CHECK YOUR BREATHER TUBE CLOSELY, mine had a crack in it at the Y section that could not be seen because of all the oily crud.

My engine and throttle bodies looked just like your's did before cleaning.

After cleaning I used some Red Rubber Grease on the rubber bits - throttle body boots, fuel lines,
new intake manifold o-rings, new breather tube, etc.

I'm hoping my bike runs when I put it all back together.

Anyone know of or use a light lubricant for the throttle return springs and throttle plate shafts?
After cleaning my throttle bodies with carb cleaner they seem "dry".

 

[paintersteve]

Look what I found, a youtube video!

I watched that same video at least 10 times during the removal. I’ve seen just about all his videos. Very helpful.

 

[andredl]

Anyone know of or use a light lubricant for the throttle return springs and throttle plate shafts?
After cleaning my throttle bodies with carb cleaner they seem "dry".

I suppose you could use a light weight penetrating spray to lubricate the shafts. But there is a risk that anything you use could harm any O-Rings involved. Like I said near the beginning of this thread ^^ spraying the throttle bodies with carb cleaner will likely flush a lot of dirty crap into the TPS sensor.

There is a thin O-Ring between the intake manifold and the head #3. Every time, going all the way back to K100 RSs, I removed an intake manifold to inspect I found it was wet on both sides of the O-Rings - they were sucking air. Replacing them made a nice improvement.

 

[paintersteve]

Just got back from a ride around the block. Much latter than I wanted but the family wanted to go out for lunch, ice cream, and drove me with my eyes closed and took me to my favorite place, Harbor Freight with a $50 bill for Fathers Day. What a family. God blessed me.
BTW. Happy Father’s Day to all the fathers out there.

The ride around the block went good except the brake light and the triangle red light would come on after I used the front brakes. The rear brakes don’t do much at all. When I tried to bleed them last week not much came out at all. ABS bleeding worked for the front not the rear. Nothing would come out. I couldn’t get to 2 bleeder screws on the ABS pump. May need to do the ABS bypass tube that I seen on here and YouTube. The second thing I noticed was a definite “wiggle” or flat tire feeling. Tires were check before leaving and rechecked when I got back. The tires look good. The date is 2013. They are Michelin pilot road 4’s. The bike was stored on the center stand for the 5 years. The wobble could just be the old tires. I put air in the tires 2weeks ago. They hold air for sure. I’m going to check the rear tire alignment tomorrow, but could that be it at all due to it be shaft drive? Bent rim perhaps?
Anyway it’s a very smooth riding bike. Looking forward to getting these things fixed and go for a long ride.

 

[andredl]

... go for a long ride.

That's me. Back in three weeks or so...