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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will removing both wheels at the same time for new tires create a major problem? Does the front of the bike need to be jacked? I know there is a big foreward weight bias. I'd hate to have the shop do it. Never had them off on this machine.
 

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Not a major problem to remove both wheels at the same time, BUT BE CAREFUL!

I've had two minor disasters, in spite of knowing better.

You need to jack the front end up, or lift it using a tie-down or equivalent from a rafter.

Also secure the centerstand to something so it can't fold up.

One time I put the front wheel on and lowered the bottle jack I had under the pan. It came down just quickly enough to roll forward and off the centerstand (see thumbnails). Came crashing down with the rear wheel in place, but not bolted on. I was concerned about damage to the rear wheel and/or rotor but I lucked out.

It was a b*tch balancing the bike so I could think about the problem. Finally used a "come-along" from a rafter to lift the bike. Whew!
 

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I put mine on the centerstand to do the rear 1st then loosen everything for the front tire and put the floor jack under the cowl. Pull the front tire and all is easy. I snug everything back the TQ it all when I lower the front.
Later == Bobby
 

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I'm a wimp

I get too concerned about taking both tires off the bike. I just do these one at a time. The tire shop is a 5 minute drive from my place so it's not a problem. If you take both tires off the bike, just be careful and create a proper balance. Remove the rear tire first, balance the bike, then remove the front tire. You might want to put a couple blocks underneath the front forks in case something happens.

ONON-
Mark
 

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I guess I should have stated that I do 1 tire at a time.
 

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Wheel Removal.....

beemer1 said:
Will removing both wheels at the same time for new tires create a major problem? Does the front of the bike need to be jacked? I know there is a big foreward weight bias. I'd hate to have the shop do it. Never had them off on this machine.
I just got done doing mine. I did one at a time also, I really think this is the right way, unless you have a motorcycle stand. I actually had to jack up my bike after removing "belly" pan, block up bike as added safety measure. Then to triple safety, I put two ratcheting tie downs hooked to rear luggage tail peice, then to eye rings on my garage wall beams. Then, I put some more tie downs connected to handlebar area, up to overhead rafters in garage. Of course I had previously, at beginning, put bike in 1st gear, and turned kill switch to off. Take your time, be very careful as not to touch front brake when calipers are off, or you will have a BIG problem. Good Luck.
 

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Wheel removal.....

Just a P.S. , after copying and printing the instructions from the BMW bike repair CD that was sent to me previously from the old "site", when you remove the rear wheel it does not mention at all about removing the rear brake caliper. As I did not know this, which I should have, I removed both nuts holding on the muffler bracket so I could physically
"pull" the muffler towards me (ever so slightly) to have clearance to remove wheel. My friend was laughing at me on the phone when I told him this. He mentioned unhooking the brake caliper, and "hanging" it as to not damaging it, and again, be careful you DO NOT TOUCH brake pedal, or front brake handle. Also, it is imperative that you pay strict attention to torque specs at all times.
 

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If you have a Staintune...

...and I do, it's just two bolts to remove the muffler, making caliper removal unnecessary.

An advantage is you can get to the back side of the muffle to clean off the crud.

Another is that it's not a bad idea to "exercise" the muffler-header junction periodically. If left too long it can become a bear to remove the muffler. I install some anti-seize paste each time the pipe is off for a tire change.
 

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Lytnin
I did not realize the belly pan was strong enough to put a jack under, I'll try that next time. I have always put the jack under the pan. Since my wheels are usually off for a few days, I put blocks under the pan or forks and also the rear drive.
BTW happy 50th tomorrow Lytnin. I also see Pirate has a 50th this month.
 

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Don't do it Lee

lee said:
Lytnin
I did not realize the belly pan was strong enough to put a jack under, I'll try that next time. I have always put the jack under the pan. Since my wheels are usually off for a few days, I put blocks under the pan or forks and also the rear drive.
BTW happy 50th tomorrow Lytnin. I also see Pirate has a 50th this month.
I would not trust the bellypan bracket, keep doing it the way you do it. The pan should be removed when using a jack.
I use a motorcycle stand under the front wheel and you have alot more control, its faster and no bellypan removable.
 

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automotive jack

I use a regular automotive jack under the pan to hold it up. Works great. There is a slight incline in my driveway so I make sure it is pointing up the hill. That prevents roll offs.
 

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Not sure......

lee said:
Lytnin
I did not realize the belly pan was strong enough to put a jack under, I'll try that next time. I have always put the jack under the pan. Since my wheels are usually off for a few days, I put blocks under the pan or forks and also the rear drive.
BTW happy 50th tomorrow Lytnin. I also see Pirate has a 50th this month.
I am not sure what you are talking about, with jack under "belly pan". I would NEVER do this. It is so easy to remove (I think what you mean is the rubber/plastic) cover over the oil pan. I originally tried to raise the bike this way, with a floor jack and a couple blocks of wood (with cardboard peices for scratch protection) and the pan was "flexing" so much I thought the tupperware would crack. If this is what you mean.
 

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In Lytnin's post he said he places a jack under the cowl. By cowl, I figured he ment the belly pan. The black lower part of the fairing. Engine spoiler.
 

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I usually:

1. Put bike in first and roll forward.
2. Loosen rear wheel bolts.
3. Put bike on centerstand.
4. Remove rear wheel bolts and loosen muffler hanger bolt.
5. Drag wheel out, being careful and wiggling muffler to allow clearance.
6. Remove front fender, brake calipers, and loosen all front wheel bolts.
7. Turn handlebars to lock position and lock them.
8. Put my cheapy sears automotive floor jack under the fork end on the left side (in respect to sitting on seat - this is the low side) and jack it up until the front tire is off the ground.
9. Finish removing loosened hardware and then roll the tire out.

Then take them to be changed and install in reverse order. I've done it with this method probably 4 times, and it doesn't require removing ANY bodywork except for the front fender. Obviously, if you're going to do it this way, be smart and make sure it's on flat ground - don't let the dog or kids out near where they're gonna mess with it, etc. But mine has set on the centerstand and my regular automotive floor jack for several days before without any problem. I used to have a pic of it like this, but can't seem to find it now for some reason.

Rich
 

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X=FAR?

Eddie

One of the Techs. at K.C. marked that on the tank during some warranty work a couple years ago.
When I took the picture, I was trying to remember myself what it ment.
Some kind of code I guess to hook things back up the same??
He told me at the time, but now that I'm 50 I JUST CAN'T REMEMBER :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, here's how I did my tire change. First, up on center stand and completed the rear, remove and replace. Next, remove belly pan and put a trolly jack with a block of wood under the oil sump and jacked it up until the rear was on the ground. This resulted in a very stable platform. Changed out the front, no problems at all. All brake calipers came off to remove wheels. Morton's BMW changed the tires and were good not to scratch the wheels (thanks guys). Tightened everything up and the new Bridgestone 020's are sweet. Feels like a new bike. Hope they last as well as the Metz Z4's.
 

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Dang, it's not so difficult. Put a 2x4 under the centre stand and then use a front lift.



DW
 
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