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Couldn't wait, so installed them tonight.
I still can't get the recessed bolt out, but I had the other side of the dogbone free, and there is no play or notchiness when I move it, so I'm not worrying about it at the moment.

Highlights
1. Have a 16mm ring spanner. It's the only one I didn't have, so had to go get one. A ratchet and handle won't fit due to exhaust in the way
2. Pick up a tap and die set. Every time I take out corroded nuts and bolts, I run them through a tap and die to clean them up. Really makes a difference.
3. Didn't bother taking off the wheel, just put a 3" ;plank of wood under the center stand and hoisted it up. That gave a bit of extra working room. I used a wooden wedge to take the load off the back wheel. This took the load off the plates and allowed me to slide/tap out the bolts. When putting on the new plates I tapped the wedge out a small bit to line up the new plates.
It's an easy job, take out old plates, clean up bearings by sliding bushing most of the way out, grease, slide most of the way out the other side, grease. There are 3 sets of bearings.
I don't think it's possible to put the new plates in the wrong way, they just won't line up.
Assembly is easy, Grease the bolts. On the Schwabenmax plates, the supplied washers go in the recesses. Put threadlocker on the threads and torque the nuts to 38Nm. Again, you won't get a torque wrench onto the front nut, but do the other two and that gives you a gauge of how much to tighten it (not much).

Once done, I took the bike off the centerstand (and 3" beam). It felt a bit higher, but hard to tell. As soon as I put it on the side stand it was obvious it leant a bit more. With the 25mm rise, it wasn't excessive, but I wouldn't like to have a fully loaded set of luggage on it as well. The flip side is that it is much easier to get onto the center stand. I have a couple of hockey pucks ordered and will make something up for the side stand. They are 25mm thick, so should be good.
I'm 6' with a 33" inseam, and I can still flat foot the KGT even with the seat in the higher position with the new riser.

Will take it out for a spin tomorrow to see if there is any noticeable difference in steering/turn-in.

Here's the old plate and new 25mm plate with two holes lined up . As you can see, the actual difference in hole positioning is only around 10mm.
Wood Bicycle part Hand tool Font Tool




Wood Wrench Bicycle part Tool Hand tool
 

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Well, sitting here with a glass of whiskey (Irish of course) after a 1 and a half hour ride on the GT.
Thoughts and impressions.....
As soon as I backed it out of the garage, it felt taller. Definitely more aggressive/sportsbike stance. It's amazing what 16mm at the seat does. I prefer sitting "on" the bike rather than "in" (like the old LT I had), so, so far so good.

When I started the spin, I was aware of the "clean bikes goes faster" syndrome, so I was wary of making any judgements, And I was probably also subconsciously riding and cornering as I would do before the change.

As the spin progressed I started to get into it, and tried to encapsulate what I was feeling, and remembered what someone said here, which summed it up perfectly. It felt like the bike had lost weight. It was flickable in the tight corners, but just as stable in the straights. It just felt better the more I got into it. It felt "natural" and more enjoyable/confidence inspiring.

So would I recommend them? Absolutely. I had a blast for the spin, and definitely some of that was the difference in handling that the 25mm risers gave.

And at the end of the spin, it was so much easier to get the bike on and off the centre stand. It would be worth it for that alone, on a two up full luggage tour, which I'm heading on in June.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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All the folks who expressed interest in some 31mm plates, thanks. I have filled orders as confirmed. There is 1set left if someone feels left out. You can private message me via "start a conversation"
 
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Finally sunny and somewhat warm in the great north! Roads are still full of gravel and nastiness but clean and warm enough for a proper start of season shake down run. Got tire pressures where I like them and discovered that I was right about the rear brakes being end of life, even the rotor is finished. Anyway, after lunch went home and checked the mail. Package from Beech!

Still really nice out so opened up the garage and got to work. Greased up the bearings with a nice synthetic marine blend that we use at work to repel moisture and corrosion. Installed plates and it was effortless.

It's a good deal taller. I'm only 5'8 with maybe a 31 inseam. I can't quite flat foot now but I'm on the balls of my feet pretty solid so no worries there. The angle of the Corbin seat doesn't feel like it's designed for this height, but I'll make adjustments and I'm used to more extreme sport bike geometry anyhow.

The bike feels eager to engage now. Lean in feels much smoother and quicker. Like previous folks have said, feels like it has been on a diet. It definitely felt like a bomber to me before whereas now it feels like a fighter bomber. I'm still aware of the weight but it's carried so much better now. My 929RR requires committed physical input to get the most of out what it can do and so far, the k1200s definitely feels more suggestable without nearly the amount of elbow grease even for something it's size.

Overall, a very positive change. Unfortunately, the weather is looking pretty shit for the rest of the month.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
The angle of the Corbin seat doesn't feel like it's designed for this height, but It definitely felt like a bomber to me before whereas now it feels like a fighter bomber. I'm still aware of the weight but it's carried so much better now. My 929RR requires committed physical input to get the most of out what it can do and so far, the k1200s definitely feels more suggestable without nearly the amount of elbow grease even for something it's size.

Overall, a very positive change. Unfortunately, the weather is looking pretty shit for the rest of the month.
Good analogy. It used to feel like a B-1, now it feels like an FB-111. (Both are quite fast 😃)
 

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All the folks who expressed interest in some 31mm plates, thanks. I have filled orders as confirmed. There are 2 sets left if someone feels left out. You can private message me via "start a conversation"
Beech,
Got mine put on tonight. No problems. I must admit they don't look all that much different. When I put them on it dropped the tire down, which raises the rear end. I'm planning a 4 day trip in the North Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee border region. Lots of twisties in the mountains so I should be giving them a work out. 🙂
 

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du, we will need a report. The physical dimensions are not too far from stock to make large(some what) changes. Suspension changes and adjustability are interesting.
 

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Hockey pucks arrived. After far too much head scratching and web surfing, I just routed out a small groove to recess the stand foot slightly, drilled some 8mm holes in the puck to give more grip to the Araldite, which i pushed into the holes, and brought up over the stand foot. I'll spray/colour it black when set. If it doesn't work, I still have another one.
 
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I'm brand-new here, folks, having spent the majority of my two-wheel miles on boxers... where is everyone sourcing their riser plates, aside from directly from Mr. Beech? I can't find the 25mm Schwabenmax plates to save my life (though I'm getting an infinite number of suggestions for handlebar risers). Thanks! 👍
 

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All the folks who expressed interest in some 31mm plates, thanks. I have filled orders as confirmed. There are 2 sets left if someone feels left out. You can private message me via "start a conversation"
Beech,
1) Do you still have any 31mm risers left ?
2) follow up question. Would you consider making 37mm risers, pro’s and con’s ?
3) Cant find the “start a conversation link.!!
Thanks,
 

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Morning all,

Beefy-er plates I like that Idea initially...... as having the the Bikes rear suspension on a single "Dog Bone", and No Pivot Cantilever was a cheap design by BMW.

But Cost reduction Managers were around 20 plus years ago...... Kawasaki and Honda adapted this crappy idea as well, to lower the price point on many, many models.



Back to the side plates (or lift plates) ..... may I remind everyone, that this is a nearly "Neutrally" or a.k.a. a "0" Squatted Bike. Furthermore, If you were to put a 1200 or 1300S on a Calibrated Motorcycle digital weight scales: you would find it nearly perfectly balanced with 1/2 tank of gas. 50.12% in front and 49.88 % (of the bikes weight) in the rear....

If one should take seat height and raise it 31 mm, what do you suppose happens to this machine? You just negatively squatted the Chassis. That means ( in laymen s talk,) you just sent the bike into a nose dive, transferred the weight forward and have changed the geometry of the machine, More weight in the front is not very conducive to the compression of the rear, or traction!

For those of you that own a 1000RR or an RSV4 or an R1...yeah I get it..... You want the rake\Trail and the Turn in, of a track Bike. So, buy a Track Bike...... transferring the weight to the front on a track bike is one thing.....doing it on a long wheel based Street Sport Tour-er is another.

Did I read someone was actually "Trail Braking" a Neutrally squatted, with non-track suspension on an ABS street Bike? Maybe its time to get a track bike, go to race school and join a club and attend actual racing school techniques. Controlled Skidding and Trail Braking is for a controlled environment, not the next corner where a sand truck just sprinkled a little hazard for you to challenge your skills.

You may which to take an advanced riding course with the Motorcycle Safety Foundation folks and see what happens to a little physics term know as "traction" when your brake into a turn....... I cant count the amount of people who have crashed into guard rails or oncoming traffic by exceeding there entry speeds and attempting to correct by braking and losing the rear end.

Anyway, I'm interested in Beefier plates with non-friction surfaces without any raise in Seat height! Can we get these Teflon or Ceramic Coated at the bolt attachment points?

You got something like that, Beech?
 

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For those of you that own a 1000RR or an RSV4 or an R1...yeah I get it..... You want the rake\Trail and the Turn in, of a track Bike. So, buy a Track Bike...... transferring the weight to the front on a track bike is one thing.....doing it on a long wheel based Street Sport Tour-er is another.

Did I read someone was actually "Trail Braking" a Neutrally squatted, with non-track suspension on an ABS street Bike? Maybe its time to get a track bike, go to race school and join a club and attend actual racing school techniques. Controlled Skidding and Trail Braking is for a controlled environment, not the next corner where a sand truck just sprinkled a little hazard for you to challenge your skills.
First I’ll say that the k1200s is a lot more than a sport tourer, if set up correctly you can push the bike and it will handle very well all stock.
If you properly use “Trail braking“ its a great skill to have and will make you a more confident rider therefore improving your skills. Any bike regardless of platform can be safely trail braked, it could save you and your bike one day. Learn it since you don’t fully understand trail braking by your comment.
Having a K1200s at its factory geometry is satisfactory for 80% of riders, for the other 20% like me I like to enhance the handling, there is a reason why the supersport has more height into the rear so that there’s more grip on front, it’s about body position, it’s not “nose diving” it’s a sport set up that isn’t just for the track, it’s for canyons, twisties aka street riding etc etc.
The supersport isn’t just a track bike, it’s a perfect combination of handling and power delivery with near perfect geometry that when controlled properly is phenomenal, I speak from experience since I own one as well.
Riders make mistakes, bikes don’t ’. Mistakes are Due to lack of experience and skill, lack of control, lack of confidence and frankly getting bad advice that sounds protective at first but is ultimately detrimental to improving skill therefore making you at higher risk of not being able to control your motorcycle when faced with anything unexpected out of your comfort zone!
Telling someone not to improve there skill level because there might be Sand or gravel and not learn new skills because there might be sand or gravel is bad advice IMO, you scan the road surface and react when needed, anything can happen at anytime but we all still ride and prepare ourselves to deal with it, if your not ready to react or not have the skills to react your in trouble! so learn it before it’s to late and be proactive!

If your one of those riders that say “can’t use front brake in a curve you’ll stand it up and crash” and don’t trail brake unless your on a track or don’t lean that bike that much you’ll low side and loose traction than you need to take some advance riding classes and skill school to get your confidence back!
BTW (the 31mm risers I installed on my k1200s has improved my tip in, braking and direction change at speed and the steering has a much lighter and sportier feel with easier line control at any speed and lean, it’s a definite improvement to handling).
Just my 2cent worth! Nothing else intended. Have a nice day.
 

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Went the same route that long ago had delve into old mail...see it was 2015 but could have sworn it was earlier than that...bad memory, as for fuelling went Rexxer cuz their was no PC option which i’m In the process of sorting for no other reason PC’s have a different feel.

What never gets mentioned is you end up with short side stand syndrome, hence why I carry a plastic sidestand puck with a piece of block board screwed underneath...shaping it is fun, but yes it’s amazing how certain mod’s can drag the bike into the 21st century, not the same cheap solution but as much of a shock to how the bike turns....BST carbon wheels, had them on the bike some years and just as much of a transformation to be had as the risers and fuelling......although the same could be said for ones’s wallet 😜
 

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Went the same route that long ago had delve into old mail...see it was 2015 but could have sworn it was earlier than that...bad memory, as for fuelling went Rexxer cuz their was no PC option which i’m In the process of sorting for no other reason PC’s have a different feel.

What never gets mentioned is you end up with short side stand syndrome, hence why I carry a plastic sidestand puck with a piece of block board screwed underneath...shaping it is fun, but yes it’s amazing how certain mod’s can drag the bike into the 21st century, not the same cheap solution but as much of a shock to how the bike turns....BST carbon wheels, had them on the bike some years and just as much of a transformation to be had as the risers and fuelling......although the same could be said for ones’s wallet 😜
Reducing unsprung weight makes such a difference, that and getting front to rear suspension bias sorted (weight transfer) can really transform a bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Confused yet condescending collections of half-truths about motorcycle dynamics, traction, and how they might be enhanced to have a motorcycle more capable of road hazard avoidance are super fun. Changing the chassis geometry to put the bike into a “nosedive” is the WHOLE POINT of the mod. More weight on the nose means more traction at the front. Shortening the trail while steepening the rake quickens steering response, making the bike much more capable of mid-corner line changes, and far quicker to initiate a turn from straight and level. Coupling that with the surprising fact that these enhanced capabilities come with ZERO degradation in stability - either when cruising or when exploring the performance envelope in a way that would give the average Motorcycle Safety Foundation “Advanced (trail braking is for the “super duper advanced“) Rider Course instructor a fit of The Vapors is just a bonus.
 

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The k1200s now has a similar stance to the 929rr next to it in the garage. Granted the 929rr is a lighter and lower slung purpose built platform....

I can say after a two hour go thru the two lane country roads at a "safe and reasonable speed", the k1200s will now happily comply with quicker direction changes without any noticeable instability at high way speeds. Besides the exhaust, I'd say the risers have been the best change I have made so far.
 

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How will this affect the 2-up mode and luggage mode on the ESA suspension?

I'm very hesitant to mess with German engineering, b/c they spend a lot of resources to get it right.
 
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