BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, has anybody used a suction tool for brake bleeding on the K1200RS with a servo, because i note it states on the service CD "do not use a suction tool for the servo?" but says nothing about using it for the brake calipers? any advice please?
Keith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
I used a vacuum tool on all the zerks; calipers and control side both. Not only did it get rid of some nasty brown fluid, the brakes were more solid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
oslin said:
Hi, has anybody used a suction tool for brake bleeding on the K1200RS with a servo,any advice please?
Keith
I see you do have the servo assisted brakes on your Euro 2001 bike. Glad you're using the right set of instruction. :thumb:

Tim (CABNFVR) may have something to say about using vacuum, I think he ran into some problems if I remember correctly.

My question would be WHY? would you want to use vacuum? You're going to use the servos to power the fluid out when bleeding at the calipers, I don't think you'll gain anything by using vacuum.

Did you see the set instructions at http://www.k-bikes.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=technical&Number=8088&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=93&fpart=
 

·
Looking for better limits...
Joined
·
5,163 Posts
Gary said:
Do check those links out. Gary is one of the authors, and I'm sticking my nose in just to say that with Gary's supervision, three of us managed to replace the fluid for all the brake circuits and the clutch, including fixing some rookie mistakes that Gary managed to A) convince us not to do it again and B)help get those issues resolved (don't suck out the old brake fluid all the way from the front brake resevoir, then go off and help someone else finish their fluid change. Air will gladly find a way into the system and then work it's way down. DAMHIKT). Brakes and clutch have worked flawlessly since.

Now, just gotta convince Gary it's time to do another "Tech Daze" with the brakes... :D :D :D



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
A quick comment on vacuum. I had a small amout of air in my non-servo K12 on the rear which I couldn't shift. I think you get a small dead zone at the top of the master cylinder if you use that to 'push fluid through'. In the past I've used very small stroke actions to remove the trapped air, but it didn't work on this bike, whereas the vacuum bleeder pulls fluid and air through when the master cylinder is at rest and at the top of it's stroke.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
"Hey Y'all"
Joined
·
2,239 Posts
Gary said:
I see you do have the servo assisted brakes on your Euro 2001 bike. Glad you're using the right set of instruction. :thumb:

Tim (CABNFVR) may have something to say about using vacuum, I think he ran into some problems if I remember correctly.........
I sucked all the air out of the inner (front) resevoir because I was watching the outer (rear) resevoir. D'oh! I got rid of the air by back flushing. David S from i-bmw told me about that trick.

Back fill: Use a syringe or fluid pump (some newer vacuum pumps can also pressure pump) and force fluid form the calipers to the resevoir. Be sure that NO AIR exist in the line when you start to force fluid through. Leave the resevoir caps on and let the resevoir overflow through the existing overflow hoses. Place a catch pan under them, of course. When the fluid in the resevoir is all new, bleed the resevoir back down to max level using a "normal" caliper bleeding method. --- Disclaimer: I have no idea what BMW would think of this method. it works for me, and there are no resevoir access issues. Do leave a catch pan under the overflow lines for a while so they can drip dry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
CABNFVR said:
Back fill: Use a syringe or fluid pump (some newer vacuum pumps can also pressure pump) and force fluid form the calipers to the resevoir. Be sure that NO AIR exist in the line when you start to force fluid through. Leave the resevoir caps on and let the resevoir overflow through the existing overflow hoses. Place a catch pan under them, of course. When the fluid in the resevoir is all new, bleed the resevoir back down to max level using a "normal" caliper bleeding method. --- Disclaimer: I have no idea what BMW would think of this method. it works for me, and there are no resevoir access issues. Do leave a catch pan under the overflow lines for a while so they can drip dry.
Tim, if you read the fine print in the CD manual this is the same preceedure called for when refilling the system if you suck it dry, DOH! But you just gave way more detail than that cornfused manual does.:yeah:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Problem with suction method

The contol circuit (handle bar brake to ABS unit ) should not be bled with suction. You will find a definite difference in feel and reaction in the brakes. The manufacturer is FTE . I have spoken with them and they agree that the pressure method is a preference with that unit. The control unit presurizes the sensor that signals the unit. It doesn't like suction but was designed for pressure.

I made the mistake of suction bleeding that circuit and it felt ok but not as strong as I remembered. I checked it several times for air in the circuit but found nothing. I pressure bled it and all was well again. The rest of the unit can be suction bled but I prefer pressure.

Never inject from the caliper end. Yes - I know the CD says to . The reason your calipers are lower than the ABS unit is so the sediment falls down hill (gravity) to the calipers. When you inject you help force the sediment into your (used to be) fine ABS unit. The tolerances there are tight and anything other than clean lubricating Hygroscopic brake fluid is unwelcome.

Make a pressure bleeder (cheap) and enjoy bleeding the entire system every year by your self. It runs me $10 in brake fluid every year. or I could pay my dealer to force the sediment into the ABS unit and then recirculate the system so there is sediment everywhere. Cost $300

Just Kidding - The good dealers use the pressure bleeding process. Some do follow the manual though (scary)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
JDGT......... What is a pressure bleeder? We need pictures, diagrams, parts sources, and a step by step write up :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Your Gonna Like this

Go to Home depot. Buy a Garden sprayer. Plastic thing you pump up to spray liquid on plants. Go to the plumbing section next (Hide Beer/diet coke- Plumbing guy is a real goofball) Find an adapter for the hose of the sprayer and a Y connector to two 5/32 clear vinyl hoses.

You now have the hose coming out of the garden sprayer adapted to two lines that are clear vinyl and are 5/32 inch (cost should only be about $20 so far)

Fill garden sprayer with 1 qt of new brake fluid . Hook clear vinyl lines to master cylinder(pull off overflow lines and put these on)
Pump up the sprayer ( try 5 pumps at a time - don't over do it - you only have a friction fit ont he 5/32 lines to the Master cyl cap ) Open your front caliper bleeder(one at a time) and watch as all of your nasty fluid comes flowing out . Do the same for the back caliper. just open and enjoy and make sure you have fluid inthe garden sprayer.(good to have more vinyl line- slightly bigger and a two liter empty soda bottle to transfer fluid neatly from calipers. ) Drink beer/diet coke while enjoying.

This will get out most of the contaminated fluid on the brake side. To do a full bleed use all of the bleed screws only in the order the manual suggests and bleed the control line.

The archives have this process somewhere in great detail with pictures etc.
If your in Indiana - come on over and I'll show you how to bleed and service the entire bike. But bring diet coke
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
K1200RS brake bleeding

Well, i have read all the posts with great interest, thanks guys for your help and advise, i suppose all that remains is to do it, but i think i will wait until it is a bit warmer out there,
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top