BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm ready to jump into my valve adjustment on my 02'RS. Any pointers from out there. There's a valve chain tool needed. Does it have to be a BMW tool, or can it be made? It will bve several weeks intil the event happens. I'll be replacing my air/fuel filter while I'm there. I'm going to get a Rhinewest kit, sprockets and chip. Yes, I know the stock exhaust must be used. My riding buddy and I will be doing the surgery and we both used to be motorcycle mechanics, still are to some extent. We have tools, beer, digital calipers, surf music, feeler guages, cigarettes, internet, DelMore Cigar-Malt Scotch, Arturo Fuente's.............what else am I missing? What should I expect?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
cobbler said:
I'm ready to jump into my valve adjustment on my 02'RS. Any pointers from out there. There's a valve chain tool needed. Does it have to be a BMW tool, or can it be made? It will bve several weeks intil the event happens. I'll be replacing my air/fuel filter while I'm there. I'm going to get a Rhinewest kit, sprockets and chip. Yes, I know the stock exhaust must be used. My riding buddy and I will be doing the surgery and we both used to be motorcycle mechanics, still are to some extent. We have tools, beer, digital calipers, surf music, feeler guages, cigarettes, internet, DelMore Cigar-Malt Scotch, Arturo Fuente's.............what else am I missing? What should I expect?
A manual??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Its not bad. You may want to pull and reseal the front cover while you are at it. The cams are easy. The crank has a cutout notch to help with TDC. The rhinewest gears and chip are easy (special security torx needed for computer case- buy local or rhinewest) You may have to leave the motor apart for a week while you get any cam buckets you will need.
Don't forget to reset the TPS on restart. I would do plugs , oil/filter change and air filter as well- factory only(no K&N-promotes bottom end lag- showed no increase on dyno)

What to expect - 5 hours , 12 beers(2 each before - 4 each after), Pick a quality sealant for the front cover and cam cutouts. permatex ultra grey 599BR, or good old 51813 with prep.

After that- Nothing but smiles
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
brucecha said:
A manual??
Well of course it's a manual. BMW didn't offer an Automatic in the KRS....sheeeece. wut u thinc im igornant? :loco
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Valva adjust Ttools

Find a torque wrench that will acurately go down to 9NM - When I got into mine I found that a previous machanic had stripped the threads on two cam bearing/caps that the valve cover bolts into. I installed helicoils in all of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
828 Posts
cobbler said:
Well of course it's a manual. BMW didn't offer an Automatic in the KRS....sheeeece. wut u thinc im igornant? :loco
Do you really want us to answer this question? :motor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
cobbler said:
I'm ready to jump into my valve adjustment on my 02'RS. Any pointers from out there. There's a valve chain tool needed. Does it have to be a BMW tool, or can it be made? It will bve several weeks intil the event happens. I'll be replacing my air/fuel filter while I'm there. I'm going to get a Rhinewest kit, sprockets and chip. Yes, I know the stock exhaust must be used. My riding buddy and I will be doing the surgery and we both used to be motorcycle mechanics, still are to some extent. We have tools, beer, digital calipers, surf music, feeler guages, cigarettes, internet, DelMore Cigar-Malt Scotch, Arturo Fuente's.............what else am I missing? What should I expect?
Sounds like you guys have got a handle on it. The only tip about the timing chain
i have to offer is using a 1/8 drift to pin the cam chain tensioner down. The bmw tool
is about $8. use a 17mm on the lower cam and pull upward on it to tension the chain
and bottom the tensioner in the bore. Remove the torx bolt on the timing cover
to gain access and slide the drift in. Rotate the lower cam down. The drift
should tighten up in the hole and slack appear in the chain if you got it right.

Tie a string to the oil and water sending unit wires after removing the rubber
covers and then pull them out from topside. This will allow you to pull them back through
when going together. Otherwise you'll need to remove the water pump cover to guide them through. I also use the string to hold the chain and guide rail out of the way
on reassembly. Tie it off to the #2 cam tower and don't forget about it being there.


Those steps are necessary only if removing the timing chain cover, from the sound
of the work being done it shouldn't be needed unless its leaking like everyone else's.
Use a scribe to mark the HES plate position if you do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
check out the threads from a couple of weeks ago there was a nice work sheet for the valves lots of luck :coffee
Cody
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top