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A friend of mine, on a K12S, who was on our ride Sunday, had installed an aftermarket torque arm (link). Someone was watching over him because, on a very rural, isolated road, doing triple digit speed, the rear mounting bolt for the arm backed completely out, separating the arm from the drive housing. The rear drive pinion shaft spline end pulled out of the U-joint, and did a pretty good job of ripping up the drive shaft components, including the housing/swingarm. He claimed he didn't use a threadlocker or a specific torque value on the mounting bolts. He admitted how stupid that was, and was quite pissed at himself.

He is lucky the bike didn't lock up. Would have been ugly.

PLEASE CHECK THE FASTENERS!!
 

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zx9rmal said:
A friend of mine, on a K12S, who was on our ride Sunday, had installed an aftermarket torque arm (link). Someone was watching over him because, on a very rural, isolated road, doing triple digit speed, the rear mounting bolt for the arm backed completely out, separating the arm from the drive housing. The rear drive pinion shaft spline end pulled out of the U-joint, and did a pretty good job of ripping up the drive shaft components, including the housing/swingarm. He claimed he didn't use a threadlocker or a specific torque value on the mounting bolts. He admitted how stupid that was, and was quite pissed at himself.

He is lucky the bike didn't lock up. Would have been ugly.

PLEASE CHECK THE FASTENERS!!
Geesh, at least he did not get hurt (other than the wallet). Thanks for the head-up, I am about to install an after-market torque arm myself.
 

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I don't remember seeing any thread locking material on the threads when I serviced my rear diff but if I remember correctly they used a crimped locknut. Did the swingarm come with new hardware?
 

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Thanks for the warning Mal, I just ordered a new Torque Arm today. I'll definately use thread lock when installing it.
 

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The torque arm I installed used nylon locking nuts I am pretty sure. I will be checking before my next ride though. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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I made my own from stainless for a few $'s and used Nyloc nuts with a shakeproof washer. I don't think its going to drop off or rust away just yet. K12RS, but same principle.

You guys with the aftermarkets better check what you fitted. The bolts and nuts on mine pulled up against spacer washers and float on the rubber bushes, that leaves the links able to pivot at either end. Now if they aren't there and the link somehow pulls hard up against the casings, eventually rear wheel torque action is going to undo the bolts.



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Hello, has anyone seen this problem with the longer torque arm? Does anyone have one installed? I am thinking of using one to raise the rear end of the bike and was wondering what was some people's experience.

thanks

jd
 
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