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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed just before the Deals Gap rally that I had started to feel a distinct pulsing when I applied the front brakes.. It's very noticeable when I pull in the clutch and THEN pull hard on the front brake. I do NOT remember the pulsing when the bike was new. I think this is the first sign of warped front rotors.. either one or both. it's NOT horrible and the bike does stop fine, but .. it's there for all to feel..and I think it's getting worse..

I called BMWNA and told them about it (just to make sure my complaint is on record) and they told me "if you have a problem.. Just bring it to a dealer and we'll fix it..We want you to be safe.." That immediate response, instead of excuses like.. it's normal, or it's all in your head, or George Bush causes this, would lead me to believe that this may be common..

I know many of the "R" bikes got new rotors recently during the recall... but I had NOT heard of any "S" bikes..

Has anyone else experienced this? What say ye, my brethren?
 

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Pirate,

I am starting to feel the same thing, and it was not there when the bike was new. 06 K1200R. Can you give me the number you call to file the complaint? Also a contact name if you have one.

Thanks,

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BMWNA is 800.831.1117 I usually speak with Tony or Robert... Very nice guys..

FYI.. I have under 3800 miles on mine..
 

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Pirate,

I had this same problem...brought the bike to two different dealers and both say they can't find the problem. I am still not satisfied. I noticed the problem at about 6500 miles. I now have 7800 miles on the bike. I will call BMWNA and see what they say.
 

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Jerry -

Mine's an '05 with 13K miles. Same problem. Haven't brought it in yet.

Ya know, you don't get this crap with a "cheap" Japanese literbike.
 

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I had the same problem with my 03 KRS.
Took it to my dealer several times.
The rotors weren't warped.
They were mic'd and fell well under spec.
The real problem was that I'd bought the bike 2nd hand.
The previous owner didn't bother to break in the brakes properly.
What was happening was that the pads were depositing a micro thin layer
of material in various spots on the rotors.
This resulted in a slight shudder upon braking that, for all intents and purposes,
felt liked a warped rotor.
For all you with "warped rotors", try this.
Scrub the rotors with Simple Green and a Scotch Brite pad.
Then go out and ride.
I'll bet the shuddering goes away for a while, at least til the pad material is
deposited again.
Only cure is to replace both rotors and pads together, and follow proper break in procedures.
Lenny
 

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Brake Pulsing

Jerry, I had the same problem with my S. It started at about 8,000 miles. The dealer found a small nick in the leading edge of one brake disc and replaced it. Was not covered under warrenty ( road hazzard ). The disc they put on was not the right disc for the bike. It had a groove on the leading edge and was painted black. Obvious, huh? The pulsing stopped for a few hundred miles until the pads got beded and started again. They replaced the disc ,this time under warrenty. Problem returned. Replaced both discs and new pads under warrenty. Have since gone about 3,500 miles. Seems to be OK, but have been fooling around with this since the first of November last year. I have 27,500 miles on the bike now. It's also had two clutches and a shifter drum replaced. They neglected to soak the first clutch in oil before installation. Woops.It still doesn't shift right into second and third. I suspect the shifter forks are worn. I don't know why they didn't just replace the entire transmission the first time. Both clutches had to be ordered from Germany. That's service for you.Also computer would not indicate what gear you were in or show neutral after new shifter drum was installed. Had to order a new potentiometer with a different plug to get it to work. I kept the "road hazzard" disc and checked it with a micrometer and found no variation. I returned it and they are deciding to credit me the cost or not. I'll call them tomorrow. Oh well. Just venting. Good luck. I hope you get your problem resolved in less than one year and 20,000 miles like mine.
 

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Warped Rotors

I have the shuddering problem but don't feel it in the brake lever. I will have to try the scotch brite / Simple Green fix and see what happens.
 

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Lenny said:
I had the same problem with my 03 KRS.
Took it to my dealer several times.
The rotors weren't warped.
They were mic'd and fell well under spec.
The real problem was that I'd bought the bike 2nd hand.
The previous owner didn't bother to break in the brakes properly.
What was happening was that the pads were depositing a micro thin layer
of material in various spots on the rotor
This resulted in a slight shudder upon braking that, for all intents and purposes,
felt liked a warped rotor.
For all you with "warped rotors", try this.
Scrub the rotors with Simple Green and a Scotch Brite pad.
Then go out and ride.
I'll bet the shuddering goes away for a while, at least til the pad material is
deposited again.
Only cure is to replace both rotors and pads together, and follow proper break in procedures.
Lenny
I would think the dealer would check the rotor runout with a dial indicator. The micrometer will only check the thickness. They may well be within thickness spec. and still be warped. ie, runout over max.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's the deal Lenny... brake rotors shouldn't warp at all during street riding.. if they do.. they should be replaced by the manufacturer.. Proper break in?? Yes you should take it easy on the pads for 100 miles or so even that isn't in concrete... The disks should stay perfect unless you put excessive heat on them... like during track days.. Sounds to me like you are making excuses for BMW.. I wouldn't presume to blame the problem on the previous owner.

No way in hell I'd waste my time scrubbing my rotors.. That's funny. .. with or without a proper break in!! If they are shuddering.. I'll have them replaced.. simple as that...on BMW's dime.

Proper break in procedure?? Sheesh..

Lenny said:
I had the same problem with my 03 KRS.
Took it to my dealer several times.
The rotors weren't warped.
They were mic'd and fell well under spec.
The real problem was that I'd bought the bike 2nd hand.
The previous owner didn't bother to break in the brakes properly.
What was happening was that the pads were depositing a micro thin layer
of material in various spots on the rotors.
This resulted in a slight shudder upon braking that, for all intents and purposes,
felt liked a warped rotor.
For all you with "warped rotors", try this.
Scrub the rotors with Simple Green and a Scotch Brite pad.
Then go out and ride.
I'll bet the shuddering goes away for a while, at least til the pad material is
deposited again.
Only cure is to replace both rotors and pads together, and follow proper break in procedures.
Lenny
 

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k1200sforme said:
I would think the dealer would check the rotor runout with a dial indicator. The micrometer will only check the thickness. They may well be within thickness spec. and still be warped. ie, runout over max.
OK, my mistake.
My dealer used a runout dial, not a mic
Good point.
Lenny
 

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Pirate said:
Here's the deal Lenny... brake rotors shouldn't warp at all during street riding.. if they do.. they should be replaced by the manufacturer.. Proper break in?? Yes you should take it easy on the pads for 100 miles or so even that isn't in concrete... The disks should stay perfect unless you put excessive heat on them... like during track days.. Sounds to me like you are making excuses for BMW.. I wouldn't presume to blame the problem on the previous owner.

No way in hell I'd waste my time scrubbing my rotors.. That's funny. .. with or without a proper break in!! If they are shuddering.. I'll have them replaced.. simple as that...on BMW's dime.

Proper break in procedure?? Sheesh..

Jerry,
Read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Here's one major point:
"Regardless of pad composition, if both disc and pad are not properly broken in, material transfer between the two materials can take place in a random fashion - resulting is uneven deposits and vibration under braking. Similarly, even if the brakes are properly broken, if, when they are very hot or following a single long stop from high speed, the brakes are kept applied after the vehicle comes to a complete stop it is possible to leave a telltale deposit behind that looks like the outline of a pad. This kind of deposit is called pad imprinting and looks like the pad was inked for printing like a stamp and then set on the disc face. It is possible to see the perfect outline of the pad on the disc."

Lenny
 

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I'm with Lenny - the phenomenon of "warped" rotors is almost always due to pad deposits, due to improper bedding, or a mismatch between the pad compound and the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ordinarily I would agree, but... as there have been many, many S and R owners with the same rotor issues... I suspect a manufacturing problem.. Bad design?

Don't forget, many of the R rotors were recently replaced under a quasi-recall... and I know of a few S and GT owners who have already had theirs replaced. I hear that the new rotors look different..

BSBG said:
I'm with Lenny - the phenomenon of "warped" rotors is almost always due to pad deposits, due to improper bedding, or a mismatch between the pad compound and the rotor.
 

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Pirate said:
Ordinarily I would agree, but... as there have been many, many S and R owners with the same rotor issues... I suspect a manufacturing problem.. Bad design?
Perhaps the design issue is a poor pad compound? Or incompatibility between the pads and rotors?

I'll let you know how the new rotors on my R compare after the recall service :D
 
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