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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
My bike sometimes make the ususal horrible noise on start up and for 2sec until the camchain tensioer is pressurized.
Ok, so im landed on not to change the cam or the oilpump chain, or adjust the oilpumpchain, but change my camchain tensioer with a "third part" and manualy one!

Bike: K1300S HP 72500km

Anyone who have tried one and can give my "go" for that one?

:yesnod:
 

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I have used the APE Cam Chain Tensioner and SCMW Cam Chain Tensioners on BMW k bikes with great results.

I use a SCMW Cam Chain Tensioner on my 2006 K1200S.
 

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I had the same issue on my 09 K1300GT. There is a new part number for the tensioner. I installed the new one, problem resolved.
Steve
 

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question - to replace only the tensioner or the whole timing set?

My K13S 09' lately start also making a grinding sound sometimes when start up cold, and also when standing in idle when clutch is pulled...

The question is: to replace only the tensioner or the whole timing set?...
 

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My K13S 09' lately start also making a grinding sound sometimes when start up cold, and also when standing in idle when clutch is pulled...

The question is: to replace only the tensioner or the whole timing set?...
All you need to change is the cam chain tensioner.:thumb:
 

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All you need to change is the cam chain tensioner.:thumb:
Thanks, but.. (& that's a big BUTT:grin) for an engine with over 100K KM, is it better to change tha whole timing set ? - camchain + sprockets + sliders + tensioner? .. Assume that i'm not gonna sell it, not at least a new K13/14S will appear in the market :devil:
 

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Being a HP model I'll assume you have the newer hydraulic tensioner. Seems to me all the K13's do. Anyway all it really needs is this O-ring kit:
11 31 7 705 460 SET: O-RING SET 1 $13.98
And then you will be good for another three years. You will need a box end Torx for the bolts and it is a bit fiddly to get out and back in but remember to tighten the bolts down evenly so nothing binds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks!
The reservoartype came first on my K1200S back in 2008.
I think il try the O ring trix!
 

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Hi!
My bike sometimes make the ususal horrible noise on start up and for 2sec until the camchain tensioer is pressurized.
Ok, so im landed on not to change the cam or the oilpump chain, or adjust the oilpumpchain, but change my camchain tensioer with a "third part" and manualy one!

Bike: K1300S HP 72500km


Anyone who have tried one and can give my "go" for that one?

<img src="http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/images/smilies/yesnod.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Yes" class="inlineimg" />
I installed the APE tensioner on my 2008 K1200S and it's worked out great. My only recommendation would be to replace the standard hardware APE ships with for stainless hardware. The standard APE hardware will rust the first time it hits water.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I installed the APE tensioner on my 2008 K1200S and it's worked out great. My only recommendation would be to replace the standard hardware APE ships with for stainless hardware. The standard APE hardware will rust the first time it hits water.
Ok but im affraid of setting it in a wrong position. I cant find any good info on how to adjust it.. :facepalm:
 

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Tensioner adjustment


This is for the APE tensioner which seems to e the most popular. K13 and k13 will be the same. If you put the o ring kit into the BMW tensioner heed Beech’s carefully. Not only do the bolts securing the tensioner to the block need to be equally tightened but they must also not be over tightened or the tensioner will bind and horrible noises made. If this happens slacken off the bolts a little bit and restart the engine. I know ‘cos I experienced it. This is also the recommended procedure in the bmw service cd
My bike has also done 100000km and I will be replacing the cam chain, sprockets and tensioner at 120000km
 

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I installed the APE tensioner on my 2008 K1200S and it's worked out great. My only recommendation would be to replace the standard hardware APE ships with for stainless hardware. The standard APE hardware will rust the first time it hits water.
Ok but im affraid of setting it in a wrong position. I cant find any good info on how to adjust it.. <img src="http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/images/smilies/facepalm.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Facepalm" class="inlineimg" />
Totally agree, I had to get advice from others on this forum. First, reuse the o-ring from the original tensioner. The flat gasket from APE is worthless. Second, use stainless hardware. Installation is simple. Just remove the old tensioner (it's a little tricky to get out once the bolts are removed but you'll figure it out). Then back out the adjuster on the APE tensioner a little bit and install using the factory o-ring. No need to go gorilla tight on the bolts. Remember, the o-ring seals the oil in, not bolt pressure. Next, tighten down the adjuster on the APE tensioner till you have mild tightness on it. I know that's vague but dont worry, this isnt critical. Now start the bike. If you hear a lot of cam chain noise, don't worry. At idle speed it's hard to hurt anything.

If you hear a bunch of cam chain noise, simply tighter down the adjuster till the noise goes away, then add a half turn and tighten down the lock nut and you're done.

If you don't hear a bunch of cam chain noise, simply back out the adjuster until you do hear some noise, then tight down the adjuster till the noise goes away, then add a half turn and tighten down the lock nut and you're done.

It's really that simple.

Go for it and rest well knowing your cam chain tension is constant. When you do periodic maintenance (and have the fairings off) it pays to re-check the tensioner adjustment by repeating the procedure above, backing out the tensioner adjustment till you hear noise and then tightening it down till the noise goes away, then add a half turn and tighten down the locknut again. This procedure will take you 2 mins max once.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the video and jkaiser's tip!
Anyway, il will repair my YZ250F first, then go one to my K1300S HP, its below freezing point and the bike will be inside the house for 5-6 months.
(My YZ is below thinnest shims on 1 valve).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
..ok, so today iv changed the two O-rings on the OEM tensioner, easy, but you need a 8mm torx spanner.
She started up without the noise, and il be checking tomorrom to. So far, so good!
 

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Ok, bike started again afther 24h rest, no noise. Next: give it 3 days.
Did you adjust the tension?? You need to back out the tensioner adjustment till you hear some noise and then turn it back down till the noise goes away. Then add a half turn and tighten down the lock nut. No amount of time will cause more noise from the cam chain, just time spent riding.
 

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I believe we are working with a Hydraulic tensioner not mechanical.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well its been a while since iv been updating this post. Waited 4 days, and starting...and, its stil fine! Maybe its ok now, if not, il try heavier oil, 10-50, its 5-40 in now.
 
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