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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So that white mold has come again.
Bike has been dragged in to storage.
Will get new rotors and pads up front, clutch will be overhauled with plate's and bearing, and springs, chain for oilpump get tension checked. Camchain replaced along with guides.
Fuelpump will be rebuilt, bought a newer second gand unit that will be rebuilt to use a mahle kl315 filter, quantum pump, flange will possibly be made new in aluminium, quick connects in metal.
Then the usual, oil, filters and lube all bearings and splines.

Got it up on the lift today and removed front wheel before i had to leave for work.
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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R & 2021 Vespa Primavera clown paint job
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Nice list. When I had my clutch basket out I too wanted to adjust the tension in the oil pump drive chain. Seemed too loose. I have the eccentric factory tool, figured no problem. Well the difference between too tight and too loose and snugging down the slack adjuster is all a trick to hurt your head. I found that as long as the left side of the chain can not be pushed out to touch anything your okay (but I like it a little tighter than that). I set with the tool looked at the slack created and replicated that without the tool. It is fairly loose using the factory tool. Turned out to be almost as loose as when I started. I have been told that because the gear is stamped not machined the slack is a good idea. But of course too slack is bad! I fiddled with it for an hour and finally called it "just fine".
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How does the tool look? can you take measurements for me?
Maybe can make a tool on the lathe, bmw will most likely ask for my unborn child for a "special tool" here in sweden.
 

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I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. But it was only like 18$ US. And as I say, not usable. And, the factory tool to insert into the hole to move the spring loaded drive gears into parallel is bogus also. Use some strong plyers and put in a piece of welding rod or such. A drill bit shank it too straight you need to put a small dog leg bend in it. Pictures of these are in the DVD too section if you have that disk. The only tool you will really need is something to hold the clutch basket while you remove or tighten down the main clutch nut.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok. How much deflection of the chain are we talking about, using finger pressure, ?
 

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Yes. it is probably 8 mm. But not so lose that it can tough the molding to the left (slack side while running). More than likely it is okay as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pulled the clutch out, basket still in bike, unsure how to lock the gears exactly.
All looked like new, no clogging of frictionplates, no wear on hub surface where friction goes.
Oddly i have the bellville spring and washer, clutch is from 2007....that part came out 2011 as i learned.
According to servicehistory and bmw themself, the bike has never been worked on the clutch so this are the factory fitted parts.....but it has all the reworks that bmw did to the clutch....🤔

Oilchain, sitting in front of the clutch looking in, the side of the chain without guide can be moved all the way forward and touch the enginecasing. Likewise can i press it all the way back to touch the other side, so way too slack that is.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Beech, could you show how i need to bend the weldrod so that it works as a locating pin? And what distance from the end the bend need to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Clutchbasket taken apart.
The stack with frictiins was in good shape, pressureplate and hub was without issue.

The bearingsurface between the maingear and scissorgear thou is another story.
Fretting corrosion is quite bad. This is due to the fact that there is no oilflow to this area.
Only oil that get here is when bike is off, once running centrifugal force throw that tiny amount away and the surfaces run dry.

Nothing to do about except buy a new basket but that also will get this problem and a second hand unit will already have it.

The springs are about 3mm too short, the supplier i had lined up for new withdrew from our deal. So looking for a new supplier of springs, if i cant find one i will make a spacer at one end of the spring.
To hold the backingplate on to the basket i will drill and tap for m10x1,25 were the rivets sat, the use loctite and 12.9 bolt's.
Then fit the new frictionplates and put i in the bike.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Made some shims in aluminium to test the idea. By making 2 shim for each spring the balance is maintained. Total weight for all shim in steel should not exceed 20 grams.

Contacted Lesjöfors who makes springs but the cost for 4 springs would be about 550 usd. 🤯
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When reassembling i was told to thread for and use M8x1,25 bolt's.
Having measured the holes after the rivets i can say to anybody thinking of doing this: Do NOT use M8 bolt's.
The holes are tapered and the smallest end is 7,3mm in diameter. That is 0,5mm over the size drill you should use to drill and tap an M8 thread. This means the thread depth will be to small, causing the threads to be stressed on the tips only.
The bigger end will be close to 8mm in diameter , which means that the bolt threads will not even touch the material in the basket.
Was planning on using M12 but that is to big, leaving to little material of the basket left thus reducing strength.
Better to drill out and put an helicoil threadinsert, i will use M10x1 thread. of course grade 10.9 bolt's. This will be the strongest possible solution, and then use loctite 270 up on installation.
Basket will be more likely to explode before the threads or bolts break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
There is a little downtime right now due to work and kid's.

And i have a thing or issue i am searching info about and trying to decide. The springs have made heavy marks in the edges of the backplate, dont know if i should grind it so the springs never touch the plate, cause what i have read before, the plate should never carry any load. Just trying really verify that.

The load should be only between spring, maingear and basket via the ends of the spring pockets only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Slow progress, bolt head's have been turned down in height.
The hole's where rivet sat has been drilled out and tapped to fit a M10x1 v-coil threadinsert.

The guy's at the lab at work are looking in to wich material for the shim that will be most suitable. (Pays to work for a leading toolsteel manufacturer that has a complete laboratory dedicated to steel) 😀

The new bearing is fitted as well.
Did a light polish on the ends if the springs as they where very coarse from the factory grinding.
Also polished the surface where the small bellville spring sits inside the backingplate, surface was just raw.

Was given this link on a swedish forum, guy in spain rebuilding his clutch and may have found replacement springs. Check out all 4 vids on this and there will be links where to buy them, he claims it work's. I take no responsebility for use of it, i just relay information.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Work work work, oh well.
Got a genuine Bmw HP carbon front fender and a set of HP rearsets for just €160, that is $195 for the yankee's. 😃
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