BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
I've run into trouble after leaving the bike dismantled for some time, I have forgotten the correct wiring of the electrical loom to the battery and the earthing wire. I have attached pictures of the 3 cables I need to verify before attempting to power up the bike. The 3 cables in question are as following:
1) the cable that attaches to the starter motor positive. I',m pretty sure it's the thin black cable that goes to the fuse rack above the battery
2) The cable that has about 6 brown insulated wires, I am not sure if this connects to the chasis earth. From what I can see they appear to go to the motronic panel
3) The cable that attaches to the battery - one end connects to the chasis and the other side attaches to the starter motor chasis.

I have attched images of the 3 separate cables. I can't figure it out from the bike manual, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance - sorry for such a silly question.
 

Attachments

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
I wasn't sure how to try help you at first. Nobody will want to help you burn up your bike, We can't see everything and there is potential for screwing up big.

The lesson for all of is photograph, document and label wiring points when stripping down - I often use different color insulation tapes for this. I understand the problem of time and fading memory. I stripped a Johnson outboard down to pretty small bits last year and am soon to face buckets of parts to get back in the right order! Yours is not a silly question, but now you have to be very careful as your post is discussing possibilites for both high current wiring and connections around the ECU. One wire I could handle!

First, wiring even colors can vary bike to bike year to year. You have some pretty critical wiring junctions there to get right so I personally wouldn't put all my confidence in following a reply, blindly hooking everything up then turning the key.

If somebody has a bike actually stripped now, that feedback would be useful. What I would do is search the attached link and make sure you know what each end of the wire is supposed to do. Look for clues and marks where a ground terminal might have been fixed before. Then using a multimeter, check it's going back where you expect (particularly the big thick wires and terminals designed for many amps.) and to the correct battery polarity. DON'T get wiring around the ECU wrong! Be confident before connecting the battery.

Apart from the clock, I wouldn't expect much resistance across the battery terminals without the battery if all the accessories, light switches ignition etc are off. If you read a short circuit - you got something wrong! When you are 100% sure you got it back right, with the lights etc off (clock will be on), connect the battery positive lead with a temporary in-line car fuse of say 10-20 amp rating. If the clock comes on, so far so good, if the brake lights work, even better. Turn on the ignition but don't start. If your fuel pump whirr's and the instrument panel is lit up - fine so far. Next take out the temporary fuse, re-connect the battery normally and hit the starter briefly. If the motor turns without a bang or smoke you are on your way. I'm not sure exactly what the pump draw is but if the temporary fuse is blowing at stage one, look for something wrong.

If you don't feel confident checking the diagrams with your connections BEFORE connecting the battery, get somebody with auto wiring experience to check it over with you first. K1200RS's have lots of very expensive electric components in them. Your battery is a current source of several hundred amps and can burn/damage incorrect wiring in a bang and a flash (ehm light travels faster so it's a flash and a bang).

Hope this helps some, it's as far as I want to go.


http://www.whitepond.org/ibmw/wire_diagrams/



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well after going over the circuits, I was able to identify the cables. The only lead that was a possible worry was the one identified with multiple cores of brown insulated cables. These were listed in the wiring diagram as x9231 which connects to the negative lead of the battery. Hooked it all up and tested for shorts - and finally after all this work, I heard music to my ears. She fired up and is running like a gem.
Finally, I can get back in the seat again.

Thanks guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
voxmagna said:
I wasn't sure how to try help you at first. Nobody will want to help you burn up your bike, We can't see everything and there is potential for screwing up big.

The lesson for all of is photograph, document and label wiring points when stripping down - I often use different color insulation tapes for this. I understand the problem of time and fading memory. I stripped a Johnson outboard down to pretty small bits last year and am soon to face buckets of parts to get back in the right order! Yours is not a silly question, but now you have to be very careful as your post is discussing possibilites for both high current wiring and connections around the ECU. One wire I could handle!

First, wiring even colors can vary bike to bike year to year. You have some pretty critical wiring junctions there to get right so I personally wouldn't put all my confidence in following a reply, blindly hooking everything up then turning the key.

If somebody has a bike actually stripped now, that feedback would be useful. What I would do is search the attached link and make sure you know what each end of the wire is supposed to do. Look for clues and marks where a ground terminal might have been fixed before. Then using a multimeter, check it's going back where you expect (particularly the big thick wires and terminals designed for many amps.) and to the correct battery polarity. DON'T get wiring around the ECU wrong! Be confident before connecting the battery.

Apart from the clock, I wouldn't expect much resistance across the battery terminals without the battery if all the accessories, light switches ignition etc are off. If you read a short circuit - you got something wrong! When you are 100% sure you got it back right, with the lights etc off (clock will be on), connect the battery positive lead with a temporary in-line car fuse of say 10-20 amp rating. If the clock comes on, so far so good, if the brake lights work, even better. Turn on the ignition but don't start. If your fuel pump whirr's and the instrument panel is lit up - fine so far. Next take out the temporary fuse, re-connect the battery normally and hit the starter briefly. If the motor turns without a bang or smoke you are on your way. I'm not sure exactly what the pump draw is but if the temporary fuse is blowing at stage one, look for something wrong.

If you don't feel confident checking the diagrams with your connections BEFORE connecting the battery, get somebody with auto wiring experience to check it over with you first. K1200RS's have lots of very expensive electric components in them. Your battery is a current source of several hundred amps and can burn/damage incorrect wiring in a bang and a flash (ehm light travels faster so it's a flash and a bang).

Hope this helps some, it's as far as I want to go.


http://www.whitepond.org/ibmw/wire_diagrams/
The wiring diagram link no longer apears to work!, any ideas?

Cheers

Martin
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top