Unrelated problems. The odd symbol is telling you that there is a front light not working. There is a variation on this where the arrow faces down, which means a rear light is not working.
It should start in this configuration as far as the side stand and transmission. Even with the side stand down, in neutral it should start, would only shut off (or fail to start) if the trans is in gear. "I believe" anyways, this thing is so complex. Would be worth a try to make sure the stand is up and clutch lever pulled. Seems like most no-starts end up being the side stand switch. Emergency shut off switch is in the start position, right?
Gilly

 

My bike had a problem starting, so it went into the shop. Turned out to be a poorly secured power line to the starter motor. The connection was bad enough corrosion was forming, making it worse. Fixed under warranty.

 

That snowflake symbol, along with the temperature of 31 shown, might be to warn you of icy road conditions. My car has the same symbol and comes on at 37 degrees.

Regarding the starting, is it slow to crank or does it crank rapidly but won't fire? I'd expect slow cranking at that temperature, along with the stock lousy BMW battery. Might be time for a Odyssey PC680MJ battery if it's "slow to crank." Cured mine.

Mack

 

starting problems

The temp is an indication that my garage is a little cold, in Sask. the winters are anywhere from zero to minus 45 or more so I've stored the bike in my heated garage. I've checked the wiring of the kick stand switch,seems okay, I bought the computer code reader and it comes up clear, the battery is new and fully charged, the only thing that I can think of is a broken wire some where? I may have to take it in but the only dealer is 200 miles away. Riding season is quickly approaching so I better get it done. Thank You for your replies there appreciated. Don J

 

Side stand switch maybe? There's a way to hot wire it and bypass that switch, if it starts then that's your culprit. Unfortunately I don't remember how. Someone on here does though.

 

OK, I've known two guys, one actually had his bike towed to the shop, who were pulling in the clutch during the diagnostic procedure.... and their bike wouldn't start. When you turn on the key DO NOT PULL IN THE CLUTCH till the CHECK stops.

 

OK, I've known two guys, one actually had his bike towed to the shop, who were pulling in the clutch during the diagnostic procedure.... and their bike wouldn't start. When you turn on the key DO NOT PULL IN THE CLUTCH till the CHECK stops.

In all the years reading various threads on this site I've never heard of this one before. Thanks for the nickle knowledge Oh Great Grifster...

David

 

Just another opinion. If you have the orig battery-these-most CAN-Bus bikes are very sensitive to batteries that are a little weak-my Ducati 999 is also. Considering your outside temp-my first stop would be battery.

 

I'm one of those guys, but didn't have the bike towed in. Manhattan BMW who does my service confirmed exactly what Greg is saying. Somehow pulling in the clutch during diagnostics prevents the bike from starting. It cranks but won't start. Once you power up the bike just wait until it runs all diagnostic before touching anything. None of this effected my RT, and I guess I was in the habit of pulling in the clutch right after turning on the ignition.

 

After checking further, the only inhibit this has, from EWS or a side stand switch, clutch switch, etc cuts out the starter motor entirely, so it's unlikely to be any of this. It's a lot of work to check things out on this bike, but seems like back to the basics, fuel, spark, compression, all happening when they should. Has plenty of fuel, according to the fuel gauge anyways. Can't hurt to check out what Grif is talkking about, but I know I've "rushed" mine without a problem.
As an aside, my damn EWS connector pulled out for like a THIRD time, anyone have connectors pull out of the EWS or ignition connector on their own after the EWS recall??
I just now rerouted the wires through the loop that the brake and clutch hoses run through. Dealer is checking with the regional tech rep. (I found thios out this morning after deciding to check if the kill switch really does kill the starter or just the ignition. I got a no-start/no crank with the kill switch off, as I expected, but then noticed the EWS displayed in the cluster, :boom:
Gilly

 

starting problems

The starting problem is still present and I've done the following, bipassed the kick stand switch, removed the gas tank checked the fuel pump ,no problem there, checked the wiring on the switches and replaced the battery. This time of year there is still time to try and sort things out but it's getting closer to riding season and if I have to take the bike to a shop six hours away I'll do that. Thank you for your suggestions . Don J.

 

Don,

Don't you have free roadside assistance in Canada with your purchase? One phone call is easier than all the checking you are doing.