[jewilson]

Joker,

So what the story behind the battery relocator and where did you put it?


Cheers

 

[TheJoker]

So what the story behind the battery relocator and where did you put it?

Story is something like;
Original location is a silly place to stick a battery if you don't have ABS, and that space that's free'd up by removing the battery can be used for other nifty gadgets, such as video recorder, data logger, beer cooler, etc... It's not about mass centralisation, but it surely won't hurt with a heavy battery closer to the CoG.

Pics and info in this thread:
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13192

More pics in my Picasa gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/the.joxor/K1200RBatteryHolder

Just ask if you have questions.

 

[JCW]

Well, I can't BELIEVE how much this bike loves lean angles.

Two days of brief fifteen minute sessions at 75-80% and the bike runs right up to the edge of the rear Pirellis. The fronts are still virginal at the edges which shows I'm still not pushing very hard. But the bike loves to lean and feels SOOOO planted. Bumps also feel like they upset the chassis less. (Despite my nonadjustable Wilbers up front ). Wheels are making a definite difference here.

Back to back sessions with the zx-10r showed I was still faster mid corners on the Kaw. It's such a well balanced machine and you can't deny the nearly 100 pound weight advantage. But now, transitions and turn in are almost a dead heat. Granted, the 10r has gobs of potential left on the hastily setup Ohlins.

In addition, I'm lofting the front end in third gear now which also suggests either better acceleration or significant weight savings in the front. The two bike accelerate very similarly. The BMW is much better dampened in bumpy corner entries. The ZX-10R for some reason is just plain faster mid corner and accelerating out of a corner. Maybe I need to check rear compression dampening on the K-R?

Spent the rest of the afternoon quickly making up a brake reservoir holder for the new master cylinder.

If you do want to get the ISR, consider their integral reservoir lever. It saves the headache of figuring how to mount a brake resevoir...

 

[TheJoker]

Well, I can't BELIEVE how much this bike loves lean angles.

It's fantastic for such a big and especially long wheel based bike, inni'!

But now, transitions and turn in are almost a dead heat.

Despite mine not being jacked up as high as yours, this is why I didn't find the need for both 190/55 and the sandbar dogbones. One is enough for me.

In addition, I'm lofting the front end in third gear now which also suggests either better acceleration or significant weight savings in the front.

Wow! I'm impressed. It must be your weight saving... Do you have any idea how much weight you've lost from the front?

The BMW is much better dampened in bumpy corner entries.

This is the DuoLever's doing. :clap: On the Nordschleife there's one particular corner that's developed two nasty big bumps on entry, and on top of that the corner is down hill. Grabbing a handful of brakes on the K-R is a wonderful experience in that corner. :teeth

The ZX-10R for some reason is just plain faster mid corner and accelerating out of a corner. Maybe I need to check rear compression dampening on the K-R?

It depends on how it manifests itself. Also, my gut feeling is that you should put more miles on the bike before going crazy with adjustments.

Spent the rest of the afternoon quickly making up a brake reservoir holder for the new master cylinder.
If you do want to get the ISR, consider their integral reservoir lever. It saves the headache of figuring how to mount a brake resevoir...

Purposeful! :clap: :teeth I was thinking I should go with the external reservoir because I wanted yet-another-milling-project. But the integral one sounds like an easy path to spend time on something else. :teeth

 

[JCW]

It's fantastic for such a big and especially long wheel based bike, inni'!

Wow! I'm impressed. It must be your weight saving... Do you have any idea how much weight you've lost from the front?

The 190 rear has a confidence level that the 180 can't match. I'm glad I went this way. I'm glad you confirmed that 190/55 fits OK. Perfect tire.

The weight lost is not just the wheels, though. There's no radiator, dash, fairings and faring stay. I've got carbon fiber bars and the lighter Wilbers shock, no switchgear, bar ends, wiring, headlight, horn. It's a lot of stuff, but probably not THAT much weight in all.

Lofting maybe an exaggeration. A shake of the bars and a couple inches may be more accurate.

Purposeful! :clap: :teeth I was thinking I should go with the external reservoir because I wanted yet-another-milling-project. But the integral one sounds like an easy path to spend time on something else. :teeth

Separate looks more race bike. Integral looks more finished. Depends what kinda look you're going for and how much time.

Machining the mount would take a 22mm drill or a rotary table. Otherwise it wouldn't be too bad. I just thought this would be the lightest and easiest.

Here's another nice tool for the fabricator, if you decide to move into sheet metal work.

I think I'll punch and flare a few lightening holes in the bracket.

 

[TheJoker]

The 190 rear has a confidence level that the 180 can't match. I'm glad I went this way. I'm glad you confirmed that 190/55 fits OK. Perfect tire.

The weight lost is not just the wheels, though. There's no radiator, dash, fairings and faring stay. I've got carbon fiber bars and the lighter Wilbers shock, no switchgear, bar ends, wiring, headlight, horn. It's a lot of stuff, but probably not THAT much weight in all.

Lofting maybe an exaggeration. A shake of the bars and a couple inches may be more accurate.

AAh... headshake I was referring to the total weight saving. I think that when you start to add all thsoe things up, you've got several kilos there. Perhaps closer to 10kg even. I'd definitely guess over 5kg.
Those OEM shocks are heavy, as is the bars + bar ends. If my memory serves you've also ditched the 1kg OEM steering damper for a lighter Ohlins one?

Separate looks more race bike. Integral looks more finished. Depends what kinda look you're going for and how much time.

Machining the mount would take a 22mm drill or a rotary table. Otherwise it wouldn't be too bad. I just thought this would be the lightest and easiest.

Incidentally this has just arrive to my doorstep:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-100mm-Rotary-Table-33376.htm

along with this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Tilting-Table-for-100mm-Rotary-Table-453624.htm

But I still need this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-50mm(2)-Boring-Head-206543.htm

And with that I could do a 22mm hole for the bar to go through. :teeth But like you say, I could do it on a rotary table too, but it's always best to "drill" with a proper boring head.
Next order

 

[JCW]

Don't try to drill a new hole with that boring head. It's just used to take VERY SMALL amounts off an existing hole. If you try to plant that thing in a solid piece of stock, it'll snap the inserts right off and fling it at your head. Trust me, I've done it. :teeth

Now you are getting into the finer aspects of machining. Always respect the metal and the power of the mill machine. :hail: With a good drill or mill bit, you can attack the metal with abandon. With that boring head, DELICATE MOVEMENTS.

I find it easier to use a good rotary table.

 

[TheJoker]

Thanks! Making notes here! :hail: :bowdown :banghead:

So, what do I need to make larger holes..!? :wtf: You suggesting a rotary table for all sorts of larger holes? Such as bullet cams, handlebars... etc..?!

 

[JCW]

Big holes I like to use a lathe. But that requires a round piece of stock to start with (unless you get a four jaw chuck and more complicated setup)

On a mill/drill, larger holes for stuff like bullet cams? I would probably drill if 3/4" or less. Buy a set of large drills with reduced shanks. Deming drills they call them. Start at 3/8" and work your way up. Follow the recommended speeds for drilling, though. And again, slow and smooth especially when enlarging holes as that bit will catch on the edge of the old hole if you plunge it down too hard. Problem is small mill machines may not have the clearance for the longer drill bits.

If larger than 3/4", I think I'd go to the trouble of setting up the rotary table with a mill bit that you can plunge drill with.

 

[TheJoker]

Well, 3/4" is 10mm, so 22mm handlebars, etc... looks like my rotary table was a good investment. Thanks! Let's not drift too far away from your Mag Wheel thread.

Thanks! :clap:

 

[JCW]

Actually 22mm is 7/8" I think?

So it's close...

Here's a cheap set I get. They are definitely a consumable item...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=32&PMITEM=990-1114

 

[jewilson]

Joker,

Sorry for changing topic, Nice job on the battery relocation. The first time saw where the battery in the K was located I could not believe it. It's to bad that I have ABS or I'd move the battery asap, nice job Joker.

It seems like you all could find a used Bridgeport end mill and a 24 inch 600mm lave. I seen this stuff on eBay cheap and quality tools too.

http://metalwebnews.com/formulas-tables/lg-hole.html
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/0600rt3.html
http://www.mmsonline.com/cuttingtools/index.html

Cheers

 

[TheJoker]

Like this then... http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-...uk/product-Armeg-Blacksmiths-Drills--Large-Drills-with-Reduced-Shanks-21885.htm Need to check if the milling machine can take 13mm shanks.

 

[TheJoker]

Thanks for the compliments and links, jewilson! :teeth :clap:

 

[Coastie]

John, what the hell. I come back after 4 months, to look at images of the wheels, and none of the links work. Hook me up so I can see what I am in for in 19 more months when I get back to civilization.

 

[JCW]

Welcome back, Coastie. :xcheer:

:rotf: So, did you see that hottie that ran for VP up there?????? :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Took them down cause I thought people were sick of looking at them. These are the only set I have left.

Mine's been holding up well. The only thing I can complain about is the damn stone chips really show up on dark colored wheels. I've been covering them with touch up paint.

 

[Coastie]

You mean this hottie? lol

Didn't see her, I have been over near Korea and Japan the last several months.

My stock rims are blackish, and show chips as well. My next set will be something lighter and near silver/gunmetal.

 

[jewilson]

You mean this hottie? lol

Didn't see her, I have been over near Korea and Japan the last several months.

My stock rims are blackish, and show chips as well. My next set will be something lighter and near silver/gunmetal.

You should check out the Gail Speed wheels, I have the Gun metal wheels.

It's good to know that Sara will not go to Washington

 

[2tall2fall]

It's good to know that Sara will not go to Washington

Yup, otherwise we'd miss out on all the "change" that's gonna happen. God knows it's good to be white and finally be able to live "guilt free" :rotf:
http://www.rense.com/general84/white.htm

 

[chuckheinch]

no doubt. i think the only thing that is going to change is my paycheck. according to the people who will make change, i'm one of the people who can "afford" to pay.